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May 28, 2010 11:55 AM

Shan Gout

I have gotten so many tips, hints, recommendations from this board that perhaps I should try some reciprocity. After 2 months of good to great French restaurants, I felt the need for some oriental food and ask our resident expert on all things Chinese, Parigi, for one suggestion and she came through in spades, Shan Gout, in the 12th between the viaduct des Arts and the Gare de Lyon. The decor is nothing special, but the cooking is. Ms. L. and I ordered 3 appetizers to share and 1 main plate each, as well as dessert, since several comments have been made about the small servings. The amuse bouche was julienned Granny Smiths with some interesting cilantro like herbs. Our appetizers were #1: excellent ravioli of pork in a broth, mildly spiced. #2: house made Dan Dan noodles with the tiniest shrimp I have ever seen, sprinkled with sesame seeds and again lighty spiced. #3: Cold, sliced cucumber with the very good contrasting dressing of oil of crushed chili peppers.

Our mains were strips of beef sautéed with ginger and ciboulettes, delicious but overshadowed by the spicy pork, also with ginger and ciboulettes but quite a bit zippier. It said on the menu aigre-doux but this was so much more refined than the sweet, gelatinous goop endemic to Chinese take-outs.

Desserts were very simple; a caramelized apple with sesame and a pear poached in rice wine.

I pretend no expertise in Chinese cuisine, strangely my best previous experiences were in the top end places in Las Vegas, which caters to the abundance of wealthy Chinese gamblers, but this was as good as I need, and has excellent rapport qualité/prix: 2 courses for €22 or 3 for €28.

Thanks Parigi.

Strangely, we were the only diners on this fine Friday.

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  1. "Strangely, we were the only diners on this fine Friday."

    That is strange, everytime I've been it's been packed and I've shown up early to ensure a seat.

    1. Mon plaisir.
      aiya, am no expert, just a fundamentalist gourmande.
      It is true Vegas has very good Chinese food. Those high rollers are hard to please…

      Eastern Paris is becoming quite an alternative Chinese gastronomy epicenter.
      Last week we had a very good meal too at La Perle de Dalian on 13 Rue Pétion. Very good authentic northern dumplings - rivaling Délices de Shandong - and … dan dan noodle !
      Starting next week La Perle de Dalian is going to serve cold sesame noodle. Can't wait.

      And btw, dan dan sauce is my go-to sautée sauce. I always have a jar ready at home. When pressed for time or for inspiration, it is the easiest and most pleasing sautée sauce for veg like broccoli, romanesco, asparagus.

      4 Replies
      1. re: Parigi

        Could you give us the recipe or do you buy it already bottled?

        1. re: Laidback

          I have both: a recipe and a bought jar (please don't despise me for cheating). Jars can keep for months. Homemade lasts a week. Remind me to show you a jar tonight.

          3 Tbs peanut butter
          1 1/2 Tbs sesame oil
          3 Tbs rice vinegar
          2 Tbs light soy sauce
          1 1/2 Tbs dark soy sauce
          1/4 tsp salt
          1 tsp Sichuan peppercorn (or more if you like spicy)
          3 tsp hot chili oil (ditto)
          1 tsp sugar
          1/4 cup chicken broth
          In bowl, start mixing peanut butter, sesame oil and rice vinegar, whisking. Continue whisking as you add in the remaining ingredients.

          1. re: Parigi

            Thanks, P. That sounds pretty simple and I should be able to find the ingredients in Florida, however the bottled stuff would sure be convenient if I can find it in the Tampa area.

            1. re: Laidback

              The bottled stuff is very commonly found in Chinese grocery stores. Tu vas voir.