EMP recommendations
Hi all,
I have a reservation for dinner at EMP on friday. I was wondering, for those of you who have been recently, what dishes you would recommend. Also, advice on what menu to order would be appreciated (i.e., the relative merits of the regular 3-course, tasting menu, or gourmand). Thanks!
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ulterior epicure
May 26, 2010 07:43 AM
Here's my two cents based on a recent spring 11-course Gourmand. (You can find photos and more on my blog): http://ulteriorepicure.com/2010/05/25...
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If anyone doubts that Daniel Humm has mastered classical cooking, one has only to order a bird at his restaurant.
At my previous two dinners, we’ve added the lavender-glazed duck as a supplement course to the Gourmand. That duck is a wonderful thing.
This time, I called ahead and requested the Four Story Hill Farm Poularde, a lunch menu item.
This was one fantastic roast bird.
It arrived evenly bronzed (I jokingly inquired of Chef Humm whether he had invented a tanning bed for chicken), darkened with the aid of a thin layer of foie gras, brioche, and black truffles stuffed between the skin and the meat. Humm said it was his mother’s recipe, which left me feeling a little more than cheated.
The breasts, which were carved and plated table-side, were immensely juicy and tender (so much so that I also jokingly inquired whether they had sous vide the entire chicken). The stuffing between the crispy skin and meat, which helped insulate the meat from the dry heat, had an earthy, pungently beefy flavor. It was a unexpectedly and deliciously heavy wallop of flavor.
The dark meat, which was every bit as tender as the breast meat, was removed in the kitchen and was served a little later in a delicious fricassée with morels.*
It’s not that I don’t like his more modern creations, but I’ve noticed that I gravitate towards Daniel Humm’s more classical side.
Blanquette de veau à la Nantua? Phenomenally tender, shocking, really. The pieces of veal practically melted away in my mouth, enrobed in a fine, meaty reduction sauce.
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I was especially pleased to see Humm’s latest iteration of foie gras escape the hackneyed “foie gras as dessert” story, opting instead for a more savory coloring. This was foie gras as pâté, and I loved it.
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The vegetables at this meal were particularly good.
“Spring Out of Winter” framed a lovely picture of an early-season sprouting, with tender baby asparagus and pea shoots peeking from under a frosty blanket of “free form” creme fraiche ice cream (frozen with liquid nitrogen) and shards of dehydrated almond milk. Silky, double-shucked peas dotting the plate made everything look and taste pretty. And a ribbon of waxy prosciutto punctuated the dish with a hit of saltiness. It was simple, beautiful, and delicious – a variety of flavors and textures. Could this hyper-organic dish have been an inspiration from Chef Humm’s recent trip to noma?
The young carrots in the “Nova Scotia Lobster” were so beautiful, so tender, and the frothy ginger-shellfish sabayon and a spoonful of crunchy “vadouvan” granola so playfully delicious that I nearly overlooked the lobster. Lobster is never superfluous, but here it was not the star.
If there was one disappointment for me in our twelve-course dinner, it was the “Garden Pea” lollipopsicle. The frozen pea sucker was flat on flavor, its natural sweetness dulled by the chill and undone by an over-salted crust of chopped frozen peas.
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As any good meal should, the Gourmand ends with booze and candy.
They dropped off a bottle of cognac (strong enough to singe the hair off your chest, or put hair on it) with glasses, a d.i.y. aperitif. Ms. Toidy Toid & Toid and I, largely teetotalers, were provided a bottle of non-alcoholic sparkling cider instead. With these drinks came Eleven Madison Park’s famous tray of pretty little macarons, neatly lined in rank and file (pink peppercorn-caramel!).
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Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10010 -
ellenost
May 24, 2010 01:24 PM
I'm dining at EMP this week too. I'm having the duck (for 2); I'm so happy that it's back on the dinner menu. Undecided about my first course. I had been planning on either the crab or the asparagus, but I've read mixed reviews about both courses (I may choose the crab anyway). I'll probably choose the souffle for dessert (or the sorbets). Have a great time.
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re: ellenost
ellenost,
Haven't had the crab or the asparagus (yet).
The Foie Gras Torchon with Tete de Cochon is a knock-out! We had it as part of the "11."
Foie Gras Torchon photo via our dining companion: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ulteriorepicure/4570299455/in/set-72157623849659079/
Also, the Diver Scallops Ceviche with Rhubarb, Celery, and Yuzu is lovely.
Diver Scallops photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863391...
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re: RGR
ellenost
May 24, 2010 02:15 PM
Thanks for your reply RGR!
I'll probably skip the foie gras since I don't think I would care for tete de cochon (my sister doesn't eat pork). Maybe I'll have the diver scallops, although I usually don't care for rhubarb (but if anyone can make something with rhubarb that I would like, it would be Chef Humm).
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re: ellenost
I do know that your sister eschews pork. I'm not sure you can tell from the photo, but the tete de cochon is only a small circle portion surrounded by the larger circle of the foie gras. So, you can combine them as you eat. And those pickled vegetables are amazing.
As for the rhubarb, its flavor doesn't jump out but meshes nicely with that of the celery and the citrus-y yuzu. A very refreshing and much lighter dish than the torchon.
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re: RGR
ellenost
May 26, 2010 06:33 AM
I'm back from yet another brilliant dinner at EMP.
The duck is absolute perfection! The table side preparation (which is a first for us) was great fun (and our captain was wonderful and very skilled at carving). The accompanying asparagus, asparagus puree, strawberries and pickled ramps worked beautifully with the au jus for the duck that had a touch of citrus. The duck itself was very flavorful and tender. The foie gras mousseline with the duck leg confit is delightful too (definitely can taste the foie gras).
I finished with the vanilla souffle that has to be among the best prepared souffles anywhere.
I do hope Chef Humm keeps the duck on the menu for the summer since I can't think of a better way to celebrate my birthday in August.
Service (as usual) was flawless.
BTW, great soft cocktail: Orange Julius. The gentleman that created it was so genuinely pleased that we both loved it. This will definitely remain my favorite cocktail.
We shared a wonderful half bottle 2001 German Riesling (Auslese) from the Mosel region. Our sommelier, Nathan, made a perfect recommendation for us.
Chef Humm defintely deserves the James Beard award.
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re: ellenost
Ah, yes! "The Orange Julius." Delicious! And quite reminiscent of the original.
Photo of EMP's Orange Julius: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863391@N03/4540132782/in/set-72157623776740643/
Years back, there used to be an Orange Julius indoor stand on 7th Av. in the 40's, and whenever Mr. R. and I would go to the theater, we'd always stop there for our Orange Julius fix. And always with a raw egg added. (There was time when it was entirely safe to eat a raw egg.
)Happy to hear that the duck is still a winner. Not that that's any surprise! And table-side carving does add to the allure.
Photos of the duck being carved table-side can be seen here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863391...
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re: RGR
ellenost
May 26, 2010 10:13 AM
Thank goodness for you and your wonderful photos! Your great photo of the Orange Julius was just the prompt I needed to order it!
Your duck preparation looks wonderful too! I love corn and blueberries so I would be delighted if Chef Humm (when he switches to the summer menu) brings back this version of the duck.
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re: ellenost
ulterior epicure
May 26, 2010 10:19 AM
ellenost: If you like the duck, next time, consider ordering the roast chicken (Four Story Hill Poularde) for two.
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re: ellenost
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re: ulterior epicure
ellenost
May 26, 2010 11:09 AM
Great write-up (as always!). Yes, your description matches our captain's description. It does sound wonderful--especially the foie gras and truffle part. I don't usually order chicken at a restaurant--except Noodle Bar's fried chicken--simply marvelous--but it looks like I'll break from tradition to order Chef Humm's chicken.
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re: ellenost
Ditto on the duck with the corn and blueberries. Also, I hope he and Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton will bring back the insanely deliciously corn pudding and blueberry dessert. I think we had it three times!
Photo of Corn Pudding with Blueberries: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863391...
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re: sgilliga
ellenost
May 26, 2010 10:52 AM
According to RGR's flickr site: orange, cream, orange blossom, honey, sparkling mineral water. (Thanks RGR, I could remember only a few of the yummy ingredients). The froth at the top of the drink never melted. I needed a spoon (I was using my butter knife until my waiter saw that I needed a spoon) to mix the froth with the remaining juice.
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re: ellenost
ulterior epicure
May 26, 2010 10:56 AM
It really takes me back to being a teenager at the mall with my friends.
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re: sgilliga
owlwoman
May 25, 2010 07:41 AM
My DH has the farm egg with the frogs legs (which were boned), was out of this world, if I went back, would not hesitate to order again, along with that wonderful duck.
I had the peeky toe crab app, it was good, but the frogs legs blew this out of the water. I also had the gnocchi, which is what I ordered, but the crab was delivered, so they brought both, they were good too, but cannot say enough about my DH's app, which we almost fought over :)
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re: sgilliga
The bouillabaisse is superb!
Bouillabaisse photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11863391...
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Here's a recent discussion of the spring menu:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/699774
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/700443
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/692124And here's some discussion on the merits of each menu:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/686134
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/680726
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/696931
