Fish & Chips: The Redwood Revisited
- Will Owen May 21, 2010 06:47 PM
Did they change the recipe? Or was my memory up to its old tricks? I don't know, but after telling everyone for the last couple of years that The Redwood's F&C was of the breaded rather than the battered variety, last night they fed me some of the nicest BATTERED cod I've ever had, and no I don't mean it was beaten to death. Four good pieces, about six bites' worth each, with a mound of their weird but (to my taste) wonderful thick leathery chips - fries are an option - and entirely too little of their delicious coleslaw, a mere thimble full. The fish was rather unevenly done, one piece a bit chewy and two almost molten, but very tasty anyway, and the crisp, dark-brown batter was good enough to serve on the side. The only condiment on the plate was a small tub of mayonnaise, exactly to my taste but then I'm odd. Mrs. O, who'd gotten the same, commandeered the ketchup bottle as she knows I don't want it anyway.
The place is every bit as I'd remembered it otherwise, with pleasant young tattooed persons running things and good music played fairly loud, but not so as to interfere with normal conversation. As it was early and we were headed to a play at the Taper Forum we just had water, but with Mrs. O back to spending her days down the block I'm sure there's a dinner coming up there before too long. I need to see if that burger is really good, or if I'd just imagined it. We do like this place.
$13 each for the F&C, not bad with the price of fish going up so much. Maybe that's why they've gotten stingy with the coleslaw...
I worked across the street for many years and we loved to lunch there. One of my faves
was the tuna melt. They also had good soup and charged you the price of what the weather was on that day, ie, if it was 68 degrees outside, you paid 68 cents. A lot of
court decisions were made at the bar there by some of the admin law judges LOL!!!! I wasn't aware that it was still open.
I think you might approve of what's changed and what hasn't. The years of cigarette smoke got scrubbed off, the kitchen got cleaned up, it doesn't ever smell bad and you won't stick to the vinyl anymore. But although the new kids did clean it up, they did not kill the character. In fact, thanks to some goofiness along the lines of a pirate theme, they added some. But the drinks are still well-made and honest, and all the food we've had has been reasonably priced and very good. The folks from the Times still call it their own, though most of them are as young as the new Redwood staff. At the same time, a starchy old fart pushing seventy, like me for instance, can still get a good martini; even though the bartender may have been taught that vermouth is supposed to be a distant rumor and not an actual ingredient, he is easily persuaded to humor the old guy.
The red phone is still there, too, though I seriously doubt it's connected to the city desk...