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Koon Bo - A (very late) Chowdown Report

  • fmed May 19, 2010 12:31 PM

Preamble: This Chowdown happened last week and I'm only getting around to it now. It was a pretty busy week of eating for me with two Chowdown's and chowtime's Eight Great Tradtions of Chinese Cuisine dinner.

Last week, some local members of the Chowhound community met up with Portland 'hound Iona and her SO Bob, and NYC 'hound Marine Engineer at a well known local favourite - Koon Bo.

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Koon Bo
5682 Fraser Street
Vancouver

In 1984, Margaret Thatcher, then the Prime Minister of Britain, signed a treaty with China to repatriate the colony of Hong Kong. This event has had a profound impact on Vancouver's Chinese food. Fears that China would debilitate Hong Kong's famously capitalistic ways sent thousands of Cantonese-speaking immigrants to Canada. Most of them chose settle in Vancouver and Toronto - cities which can now boast having some of the best Chinese food anywhere. The new immigrants imported a cuisine that is modern, cosmopolitan, and polished. Shiny new Dim Sum and Seafood restaurants now dot both cities' suburbs.

Koon Bo is a Cantonese family restaurant that followed a different evolutionary path. It serves Chinese cuisine as if this influx of new Hong Kong immigrants never happened. The food served here - the familiar Westernized Chinese cuisine - has roots that go further back to the time the southern Chinese first came here to build the railroads in the late 1800's. We all know this cuisine - as we, our parents, and even our grandparents have eaten it all our lives - in buffets, as take-out, at Chinese-run diners...at places with evocative names such as The Dragon Inn, The Ho Ho, or The Marco Polo. Many restaurants still serve this kind of food. Here in this city, their numbers are dwindling as they are slowly replaced with the more modern dim sum, congee, noodle and seafood houses.

Koon Bo's humbly innovative kitchen serves up some of the usual favourites (Chicken Chow Mein, Sweet and Sour Pork, that sort or thing)...but it also serves inventions that riff from the aesthetic of Westernized Chinese food. These dishes are familiar, but offer interesting twists and combinations that take the cuisine to a more modern direction. Here, even something as ubiquitous as the Chinese Chicken Salad becomes elevated and memorable (it is probably their most popular and talked-about dish). The familiar ingredients are all there - shredded chicken, crispy wonton skins, etc...but the addition of their own house-made sweet pickle and jellyfish takes this dish to another level.

Koon Bo are masters of fowl - this night we had some excellent Peking Duck (served two ways), Roast Squab, and Mandarin Chicken. The Beef Tenderloin with Walnut is a sweet, syrupy treat which pairs very well with white rice. Their Pork with Peppah Tofu (oddly listed with a different name on the menu - anyone remember what it was actually called?) - is the only dish that had any kind of "constructed" presentation - as it was served in a wonton skin bowl. The currently in-season Spot Prawns and Soy Sauce was a messy and delicious dish - and made with the largest spot prawns I have ever seen. I think the only dish that I personally didn't care for was the Smoked Sablefish served with a Mayo dipping sauce.

One thing I would have done differently was to order at least one more vegetable dish - even something as simple as Gai Lan with Garlic Sauce would have balanced out the richness of the other dishes.

To me, Koon Bo offers are great alternative to my usual Dim Sum, Noodlehouse, or Regional Chinese excursions. The cooking here sends a clear message that Westernized-Chinese Cuisine isn't some bastard child - it truly is a "Cuisine" of its own right...and one that is still evolving with the help of places like Koon Bo.

Pics: http://picasaweb.google.ca/gustibus.m...

If anyone would like to join us in any future Chowdowns please log on here... http://vanchow.ning.com/ and (please) introduce yourself in the "About Me" section.

 
 
 
 
 
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  1. Nice report as usual fmed. I haven't been to Koon Bo in years but I their Squab was always one of my favs, glad to see the quality is still there.
    I'll have to hook up with a Chowdown one of these days....

    1 Reply
    1. re: eatrustic

      Please do eatrustic...you know where to find us. The next one is Persian at Shalizar in mid-June.

    2. Hey Fmed,

      Everything looks tasty! I've seen most of the dishes before except the Pork with Peppah Tofu. Can you describe what the dish tasted like?

      Whenever anyone uses the word "peppah" it always reminds of the Peppah Ducks I would see at Chinese butcher shop as a kid in Chinatown.

      I love Chinese Chicken Salad or Hand Shredded Chicken . My mom usually makes it for our family dinners with the left over white meat from Hainanese Chicken and has three variations of it: Seaseme Hand Shredded Chicken, Spicy Hand Shredded Chicken, & Strange Flavour Hand Shredded Chicken (Sweet, Salty, Spicy, Sour all rolled into one dish).

      1 Reply
      1. re: moyenchow

        The Pork with Pepah Tofu is like a combination of sweet honey pork (like sweet spareribs) and deepfried tofu which seems to have been battered with (perhaps) taro starch (it looks similar to taro balls in dim sum). "Pepah" is a Chinese lute: http://www.vanmag.com/restaurant/Koon...

      2. I really liked the smoked sable fish, but thought the Chinese Chicken salad was just pedestrian ... go figure. The duck was brilliant, both ways. Spotted prawns were tasty but too messy. Whatever that was in the Wonton bowl was good. I ate too much, I think I'm still in a food coma.

        1 Reply
        1. re: Marine Engineer

          I took the leftovers to my parents. They too raved about the smoked sable fish.

        2. Nice write up as usual Fmed. Always great to have some background information to learn something new. I remember going to Koon Bo quite a bit in the late 90's (?) early 2000's for family dinners and even more recently (it's great to see a familiar face serving up the food still!).

          1 Reply
          1. re: bdachow

            It was great to finally get to Koon Bo which has been on my list for ages. This is so not a place you go with two or even four diners -- a big group is a must. I really enjoyed the food as a whole but when I break it down I wasn't in love with any of the dishes. Favourites were the chicken salad, the duck lettuce wrap and the roast chicken. I wasn't super impressed with the duck skin, but maybe I'm just not a Peking duck fan. And that soup was not my cup of, er , soup at all. What elevated the feast for me was the company, and the service was really top notch.

          2. thinking of heading there with some friends soon, what are the prices like? hours?

            1 Reply
            1. re: yuyu

              Prices are slightly higher than the typical mom and pop place. I believe they are open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week.