Bouchons in Lyon

[deeguttik]

Hello

My bf and I are spending a weekend in Lyon and we have heard that Bouchons in Lyon is where we can get true Lyonnais gastronomy. Can you recommend a few Bouchons that are reasonably priced. Also is there is a decent reasonably priced Bed and Breakfast in the city that could be possibly recommended?

We are looking for the authentic gastronomic Lyonnaise experience and it seems from reading other posts on this forum and a few other articles online, that Bouchons are the way to go.

Thanks

Dee

[deeguttik]

Wow thanks Everyone. I looked up Le Puy and it looks wonderful. Thanks Mangeur and tito and everyone else for the recommendations. We have so much to explore and so little time..it's so great!

[Parigi]

Have you gone yet? I too am looking for eat tips in Argenton. Has any hound been? I trust fellow hounds to have been everywhere.

[menton1]

Do you mean Argenton in the Berry region?

[Parigi]

Yup as the OP indicated also.

[menton1]

I don't see any mention anywhere in this thread, must have missed it. A great area, be sure not to miss both of George Sand's houses, in La Chatre and Gargilesse (to get away from Chopin).

Not a big restaurant area, the Auberge des Saveurs in town is decent but not extraordinary...

[Parigi]

Right on, Gargilesse. It was going to be my picnic spot until I read it would rain Thursday when I'm there.
You're right! No one mentioned Argenton except the voice in my head…

[bagaren]

if you want to explore the full rich cusine of lyon dont miss paul bocuse 3star
restaurant, its old school but very nice and a classic,
just do the three course dinner or you will explode by the time they roll in the desserts.
his bistros are quite good aswell,

[jonking]

A fascinating French website features scads of info about Lyonnais dining, including charmingly amateurish videos of many spots. There are no English options, but even with no command of French you can get a feeling for dozens of places (esp. through the videos), and gauge the sentiments of the site's users (who rate various places on a 20-point scale). I was taken aback to discover that my favorite bouchon, Cafe des Federacions, is currently considered a sub-par, touristic faux-bouchon ... that's not what I would have called it when I had a fabulous meal there in 2000, but who knows what's changed in the interim? At any rate, there are dozens of other places to dream about!

http://www.lyonresto.com/

For videos only:

http://www.lyonresto.tv/

[mangeur]

This is a good website. It is important to pull up restaurants' pages, however, and read through the diners' comments. Often one sole diner can pull a restaurant's rating down by blasting the food or another element, service, cadre, etc. As with all client comment, you have to read between the lines rather than take the overall rating as "word".

(In one that I checked, the writer praised the quenelles but damned the tripe. Well, errr, okay. His review, however, was able to knock the over rating from an 18 to a 14.)

[n10goddess]

Sorry to but in - nothing to do with the post but I have a question for jonking having found the details of your road trip from Calgary to Vancouver. I'm coming to the States from London and would like to do this trip - I'll probably fly one direction - how long do you think it would take me to do the same route you took (do you have a map...?) - I don't really want to stop and sightsee or do any sporting and usually drive, with stops along the way, from about 9-6 every day. Thanks so much Alexandra

[tito]

Dee, I just returned from Lyon and we stayed at the Carlton Mercure. Very comfortable and priced right. I would go just for the antique elevator!! Nice restaurant right around the corner (Cuisines & Dependence??) Please try Harmonie de Vins wine bar for a pre dinner glass of wine......lots of fun and atmosphere

[menton1]

tito, did you ever get to Le Puy? I was thinking of stopping there on the way to Torino this year...If yes, how was Le Puy?

[tito]

Yes we made it to Le Puy.....nice little town. The only reason I would return would be Restaurant Francois Gagnaire. 1 Michellin Star, nice meal......they had a very interesting cheese that gets its rind from spiders that they let walk on it!!

Going to Torino.....where are you starting your trek from?

[menton1]

Oh this trip we are starting in Paris, visiting friends in Tours, Argenton (Berry), Manosque (Vaucluse) then a side trip to Torino and a week on the Riviera. Hope the Euro keeps going down! . Le Puy is supposed to have some spectacular 12th century architecture, I didn't realize it had a 1*!!

I also noticed on the OT site that Le Puy is a "Site Remarquable du Gout" because of the local lentil producers in the area and regional dishes that include lentils. Hmmm.

[tito]

The lentils were everywhere!! I would also reccommend trying the verbena liquor for an after dinner drink. Apparently this is a speialty of the area. Le Puy was a cute town. When we aere there it never went above 20F and it snowed for 4 days straight!! Thank goodness for that vebena liquor! If your travels take you anywhere near Uzes, that is a great overnight stop also.

[deeguttik]

Thanks Tito. Just booked a room at the Carlton! :)

[tito]

I'm sure you will enjoy it. Please enjoy a glass of wine at the local wine bar: Harmonie du Vins.....a great place for a pre dinner glass of wine. Right around the corner from the hotel is a nice little restaurant: Cuisine & Dependence.

Are you going to Le Puy??

[ChefJune]

I've always wondered about that place! Will have to check the price against "my" hotel before I book this fall. ;)

[menton1]

Don't know where you hail from, but be prepared if you go to a Bouchon Lyonnais the menu will be mostly offal. We're talking feet, tails, snouts, brains and intestines. Lots of unassuming names for these dishes as well. :"Tablier de Sapeur" (Fireman's apron) for exampe, is a tripe dish.

Some of the best:
Chez Paul
Cafe Abel
Chez Hugon.
Chez Georges

Wine is served in a heavy glass bottle called a "pot".

[John Talbott]

And is 46 not 50 cl.

[ericab]

Loved Café Comptoir Abel too

[mangeur]

Not a B&B, but a centrally located very inexpensive boutique hotel, consider Hotel Bayard. http://www.hotelbayard.fr/chambres-de...

[deeguttik]

Thank you for the recommendations Mangeur!

Are there any medium-budget restaurants that you recommend for foodies? We don't want to limit ourselves to Bouchons, we were just under the impression that Bouchons served authentic Lyonnaise cuisine?

[John Talbott]

Lucy Vanel is the Queen of Info on Lyon (along with Mangeur of course), she has lived there for years, Lucy are you listening? http://kitchen-notebook.blogspot.com/

[ChefJune]

yes, she is. Does she post here?

[John Talbott]

I'll find out.

[deeguttik]

John thanks for Lucy Vanel's website..treasure of info!

[ChefJune]

Have y ou stayed at that one, mangeur? We're fond of Hotel des Artistes, nearby the Theatre des Celestins, and also have stayed at Hotel des Celestins, a couple of blocks away. They're both located between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins.

[mangeur]

We have stayed at Hotel des Artistes but not the others.

We will stay at the Bayard next time we visit. I like the looks of the rooms on the website, and the location suits our arriving by train at Perache and visiting the antique shops on rue Auguste Comte.

[mangeur]

There is an association of authentic buchons of lyon: http://www.lyonresto.com/restaurant-lyon/Authentique-bouchon-lyonnais/restaurant-lyon-Authentique-bouchon-lyonnais.htm
A buchon will not be an expensive restaurant. One of our favorites which is indeed alive and thriving is Daniel et Denise. http://www.daniel-et-denise.fr/

[ChefJune]

The only bouchons I've ever been to in Lyon are no longer there. However, there is much authentic Lyonnaise food served all over the city, not just in bouchons. If you've never been there before, why would you restrict your dining that way? Or do you have the notion that bouchons are somehow less expensive than restaurants, bistros and brasseries?