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Bouchons in Lyon

deeguttik May 12, 2010 01:48 PM


My bf and I are spending a weekend in Lyon and we have heard that Bouchons in Lyon is where we can get true Lyonnais gastronomy. Can you recommend a few Bouchons that are reasonably priced. Also is there is a decent reasonably priced Bed and Breakfast in the city that could be possibly recommended?

We are looking for the authentic gastronomic Lyonnaise experience and it seems from reading other posts on this forum and a few other articles online, that Bouchons are the way to go.



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  1. ChefJune RE: deeguttik May 12, 2010 02:02 PM

    The only bouchons I've ever been to in Lyon are no longer there. However, there is much authentic Lyonnaise food served all over the city, not just in bouchons. If you've never been there before, why would you restrict your dining that way? Or do you have the notion that bouchons are somehow less expensive than restaurants, bistros and brasseries?

    1. mangeur RE: deeguttik May 12, 2010 02:51 PM

      There is an association of authentic buchons of lyon: http://www.lyonresto.com/restaurant-l...
      A buchon will not be an expensive restaurant. One of our favorites which is indeed alive and thriving is Daniel et Denise. http://www.daniel-et-denise.fr/

      1. mangeur RE: deeguttik May 12, 2010 06:33 PM

        Not a B&B, but a centrally located very inexpensive boutique hotel, consider Hotel Bayard. http://www.hotelbayard.fr/chambres-de...

        7 Replies
        1. re: mangeur
          deeguttik RE: mangeur May 13, 2010 07:43 AM

          Thank you for the recommendations Mangeur!

          Are there any medium-budget restaurants that you recommend for foodies? We don't want to limit ourselves to Bouchons, we were just under the impression that Bouchons served authentic Lyonnaise cuisine?

          1. re: deeguttik
            John Talbott RE: deeguttik May 13, 2010 08:11 AM

            Lucy Vanel is the Queen of Info on Lyon (along with Mangeur of course), she has lived there for years, Lucy are you listening? http://kitchen-notebook.blogspot.com/

            1. re: John Talbott
              ChefJune RE: John Talbott May 13, 2010 10:49 AM

              yes, she is. Does she post here?

              1. re: ChefJune
                John Talbott RE: ChefJune May 13, 2010 11:04 AM

                I'll find out.

              2. re: John Talbott
                deeguttik RE: John Talbott May 28, 2010 06:30 AM

                John thanks for Lucy Vanel's website..treasure of info!

            2. re: mangeur
              ChefJune RE: mangeur May 13, 2010 10:45 AM

              Have y ou stayed at that one, mangeur? We're fond of Hotel des Artistes, nearby the Theatre des Celestins, and also have stayed at Hotel des Celestins, a couple of blocks away. They're both located between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins.

              1. re: ChefJune
                mangeur RE: ChefJune May 13, 2010 01:31 PM

                We have stayed at Hotel des Artistes but not the others.

                We will stay at the Bayard next time we visit. I like the looks of the rooms on the website, and the location suits our arriving by train at Perache and visiting the antique shops on rue Auguste Comte.

            3. menton1 RE: deeguttik May 13, 2010 10:06 AM

              Don't know where you hail from, but be prepared if you go to a Bouchon Lyonnais the menu will be mostly offal. We're talking feet, tails, snouts, brains and intestines. Lots of unassuming names for these dishes as well. :"Tablier de Sapeur" (Fireman's apron) for exampe, is a tripe dish.

              Some of the best:
              Chez Paul
              Cafe Abel
              Chez Hugon.
              Chez Georges

              Wine is served in a heavy glass bottle called a "pot".

              2 Replies
              1. re: menton1
                John Talbott RE: menton1 May 13, 2010 10:29 AM

                And is 46 not 50 cl.

                1. re: menton1
                  ericab RE: menton1 Jun 1, 2010 02:28 AM

                  Loved Café Comptoir Abel too

                2. t
                  tito RE: deeguttik May 13, 2010 11:35 AM

                  Dee, I just returned from Lyon and we stayed at the Carlton Mercure. Very comfortable and priced right. I would go just for the antique elevator!! Nice restaurant right around the corner (Cuisines & Dependence??) Please try Harmonie de Vins wine bar for a pre dinner glass of wine......lots of fun and atmosphere

                  7 Replies
                  1. re: tito
                    menton1 RE: tito May 13, 2010 11:42 AM

                    tito, did you ever get to Le Puy? I was thinking of stopping there on the way to Torino this year...If yes, how was Le Puy?

                    1. re: menton1
                      tito RE: menton1 May 15, 2010 02:59 PM

                      Yes we made it to Le Puy.....nice little town. The only reason I would return would be Restaurant Francois Gagnaire. 1 Michellin Star, nice meal......they had a very interesting cheese that gets its rind from spiders that they let walk on it!!

                      Going to Torino.....where are you starting your trek from?

                      1. re: tito
                        menton1 RE: tito May 15, 2010 03:17 PM

                        Oh this trip we are starting in Paris, visiting friends in Tours, Argenton (Berry), Manosque (Vaucluse) then a side trip to Torino and a week on the Riviera. Hope the Euro keeps going down! . Le Puy is supposed to have some spectacular 12th century architecture, I didn't realize it had a 1*!!

                        I also noticed on the OT site that Le Puy is a "Site Remarquable du Gout" because of the local lentil producers in the area and regional dishes that include lentils. Hmmm.

                        1. re: menton1
                          tito RE: menton1 May 16, 2010 07:18 AM

                          The lentils were everywhere!! I would also reccommend trying the verbena liquor for an after dinner drink. Apparently this is a speialty of the area. Le Puy was a cute town. When we aere there it never went above 20F and it snowed for 4 days straight!! Thank goodness for that vebena liquor! If your travels take you anywhere near Uzes, that is a great overnight stop also.

                    2. re: tito
                      deeguttik RE: tito May 28, 2010 06:27 AM

                      Thanks Tito. Just booked a room at the Carlton! :)

                      1. re: deeguttik
                        tito RE: deeguttik Jun 4, 2010 09:12 AM

                        I'm sure you will enjoy it. Please enjoy a glass of wine at the local wine bar: Harmonie du Vins.....a great place for a pre dinner glass of wine. Right around the corner from the hotel is a nice little restaurant: Cuisine & Dependence.

                        Are you going to Le Puy??

                      2. re: tito
                        ChefJune RE: tito May 28, 2010 08:52 AM

                        I've always wondered about that place! Will have to check the price against "my" hotel before I book this fall. ;)

                      3. bagaren RE: deeguttik May 20, 2010 05:21 AM

                        if you want to explore the full rich cusine of lyon dont miss paul bocuse 3star
                        restaurant, its old school but very nice and a classic,
                        just do the three course dinner or you will explode by the time they roll in the desserts.
                        his bistros are quite good aswell,

                        3 Replies
                        1. re: bagaren
                          jonking RE: bagaren May 24, 2010 01:39 PM

                          A fascinating French website features scads of info about Lyonnais dining, including charmingly amateurish videos of many spots. There are no English options, but even with no command of French you can get a feeling for dozens of places (esp. through the videos), and gauge the sentiments of the site's users (who rate various places on a 20-point scale). I was taken aback to discover that my favorite bouchon, Cafe des Federacions, is currently considered a sub-par, touristic faux-bouchon ... that's not what I would have called it when I had a fabulous meal there in 2000, but who knows what's changed in the interim? At any rate, there are dozens of other places to dream about!


                          For videos only:


                          1. re: jonking
                            mangeur RE: jonking May 24, 2010 01:54 PM

                            This is a good website. It is important to pull up restaurants' pages, however, and read through the diners' comments. Often one sole diner can pull a restaurant's rating down by blasting the food or another element, service, cadre, etc. As with all client comment, you have to read between the lines rather than take the overall rating as "word".

                            (In one that I checked, the writer praised the quenelles but damned the tripe. Well, errr, okay. His review, however, was able to knock the over rating from an 18 to a 14.)

                            1. re: jonking
                              n10goddess RE: jonking May 25, 2010 04:20 AM

                              Sorry to but in - nothing to do with the post but I have a question for jonking having found the details of your road trip from Calgary to Vancouver. I'm coming to the States from London and would like to do this trip - I'll probably fly one direction - how long do you think it would take me to do the same route you took (do you have a map...?) - I don't really want to stop and sightsee or do any sporting and usually drive, with stops along the way, from about 9-6 every day. Thanks so much Alexandra

                          2. d
                            deeguttik RE: deeguttik May 28, 2010 06:23 AM

                            Wow thanks Everyone. I looked up Le Puy and it looks wonderful. Thanks Mangeur and tito and everyone else for the recommendations. We have so much to explore and so little time..it's so great!

                            5 Replies
                            1. re: deeguttik
                              Parigi RE: deeguttik Jun 4, 2010 04:11 AM

                              Have you gone yet? I too am looking for eat tips in Argenton. Has any hound been? I trust fellow hounds to have been everywhere.

                              1. re: Parigi
                                menton1 RE: Parigi Jun 4, 2010 07:40 AM

                                Do you mean Argenton in the Berry region?

                                1. re: menton1
                                  Parigi RE: menton1 Jun 4, 2010 08:26 AM

                                  Yup as the OP indicated also.

                                  1. re: Parigi
                                    menton1 RE: Parigi Jun 4, 2010 10:30 AM

                                    I don't see any mention anywhere in this thread, must have missed it. A great area, be sure not to miss both of George Sand's houses, in La Chatre and Gargilesse (to get away from Chopin).

                                    Not a big restaurant area, the Auberge des Saveurs in town is decent but not extraordinary...

                                    1. re: menton1
                                      Parigi RE: menton1 Jun 4, 2010 11:22 AM

                                      Right on, Gargilesse. It was going to be my picnic spot until I read it would rain Thursday when I'm there.
                                      You're right! No one mentioned Argenton except the voice in my head…

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