Help with my Sevilla Tapas Choices
- shermanoaksfoodie May 11, 2010 05:50 PM
We will be making a trip to Spain soon and I'm trying to finalize Sevilla food plans. I've spent a lot of time reading through the boards and making a google map to see where everything is located. I have only 1 lunch and 2 dinners to figure out. Can you please help? We want informal, good, inexpensive, hopefully not touristy yet good atmosphere tapa options. We're staying about a half mile east of the Cathedral.
We arrive around noon, will want to grab lunch, and then see the Cathedral and Alcazar. For lunch, I'm thinking Las Teresas or Bodega Morales. Thoughts??
For dinner, these seem to be the options I've narrowed it down to that are near each other:
Casa Robles - Bar Europa -- Gran Tino
Casa Moreno - La Flor de Toranzo - Meson Cinco Jotas - Enrique Becerra (would need to narrow down to 2-3 here)
Bar Giralda - Bodega Santa Cruz/Las Columnas - Las Teresas/Bodega Morales (depending onlunch)
I welcome your critique and suggestions. What can't we miss? What MUST we miss?
Your choices are good. Just about every tapas places are inexpensive and atmospheric. And the locations are very central, an important factor with only couple days. Also be somewhat flexible as without doubt, you will run into some wonderful unexpected places. I wouldn't worry about any places being too touristy as Seville is still under the radar for most foreign tourists. One will more lightly run into visitors from other parts of Spain. Or in weekends in the Barrio Santa Cruz, overrun with young groups out for a night of partying.
I agree with PBSF lots of good and interesting places. The beauty of Seville is its scale and thus it is an easy city to stroll around and graze on Tapas at likely looking spots. Our strategy was to plan out a route that covered recommended places and then pop into interesting/crowded ones that we passed.
From the OP it looks like you plan to visit 2 or 3 a night, why so few?
I lived in Seville for a year a couple of years ago, and I do feel like there were some tourist traps in the area of Santa Cruz, but the options you have listed above are good ones in general. I found Bar Giralda to be hit or miss. Las Columnas has some excellent choices but is not a great place to sit for a quiet meal--it also requires some skill in getting the attention of the barmen to take your order. My recommendation is not on your list: La Cava del Europa. It is owned by the same people who run Bar Europa but has some of the best prepared and most sophisticated options for tapas. It also has several sidewalk tables under orange trees (keep one hand on your bags anywhere you eat outdoors). They also have a good wine selection. My personal favorite there was the presa ibérica, a cut of pork that had been marinated with balsamic vinegar and rosemary, seared and served sprinkled with fleur de sel, but I never had anything I didn't like. I returned last summer and was still impressed. Here is a link if it sounds interesting: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapa...
Happy eating and buen provecho!
Eslava is terrific and inexpensive but it is a bit out of the way near the
Alameda de Hercules. Another thing is that it can get very very crowded and noisy. Some find it unbearably so. Besides the good food, the staff is simply terrific. For a tapas place, the staff and ambience they create is almost as important as the food.
Totally agree that Eslava is wonderful. And that it is almost always packed out. If you want to secure one of the 5-6 tables at the back then get there right at opening time. Otherwise cram yourself in at the bar and just go along for the ride. As already mentioned, the staff are terrific and the food is both cheap & fabulous.
May I suggest a few other options?
If you'd like a nice lunch on your first day near the Cathedral then I would recommend La Moneda (next to post office), Los Coloniales II (calle Jimios) or Bodeguita Romero (calle Harinas). All three are inexpensive and have excellent food.
Others you have mentioned - Bodega Morales, Flor de Toranzo, Casa Moreno - would be better for a quick snack and a drink, not a meal.
Meson 5 Jotas - okay, but expensive for what you get.
Enrique Becerra - very good tapas at the bar.
Casa Robles - very good, quite expensive, more for dinner than tapas.
Las Columnas - not what it used to be.
I would also recommend Modesto (sit at the bar), La Sal (wonderful tuna), Vineria San Telmo ... these three are all very close to each other in Santa Cruz.
Cerveceria Giralda and Las Teresas - both very good, as is La Estrella.
jojobhai has already linked to my tapas blog for Cava del Europa ... here is the link to the main page if you'd like to have a look at some of the places I've recommended.
To anyone who reads this: Do NOT go to the modesto restaurant - it's greasy and overpriced. The reviews given here are outdated. I just wasted 35 euros here (in a town where an excellent meal can be had for 10-15 euros). These previous posters totally led me astray-- i've lived in Europe for five years (and I've been eating out in Sevilla for 2 weeks) and this was absolutely the greasiest meal I've ever had in Spain or anywhere in Europe). I fear for my stomach tomorrow. Verrrrrrry disappointed.