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May 9, 2010 10:48 PM

Testaccio - A Vague Question

A few years ago I had a Sunday evening dinner at an unprepossessing restaurant in Testaccio. It was not a fancy place, but it was Sunday evening, and it was the only place (or one of very few places) open. Since it didn't look like much, I decided to order a steak. How badly, I asked myself, could one botch a steak?

Well, it was by far the best steak I have ever had! Perfectly cooked and amazingly tasty. I did not make any notes on the name of the place, since I did not expect to get back to Rome ever. Naturally, something has come up that will take me to Rome next winter, and I am rather hoping that from this description (on the small side, open Sunday evening) and from the description of the location that I'm going to give, one of you locals out there can identify the place. Even if you narrow it down to two or three, I'll probably recognize it when I check them out.

So here's what I recall about the location:

The restaurant in question is on either the first or second street (I think it's the first one, in fact) running parallel to Via Marmorata (I think that's either Via Pietro Querini or Via Mastro Giorgio (or is it Piazza Testaccio?)), near to Via Alessandro Volta.

If one thinks of Via Marmorata as a North-South Street, then (if I recall correctly) the restaurant was north of Via Alessandro Volta on the east side of the street.

If this is all too vague, then perhaps you can direct me to one or two of the Testaccio standouts. I'll try this time to get there not on a Sunday evening.

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  1. My first thought was Da Bucatino, which is open Sunday evening, but from the location it sounds like one of the ones near Felice (not open Sunday), which might be La Fraschetta or Tutti Frutti, but I don't know whether they're open on Sunday. But I have no sense of direction so I may be completely misunderstanding your description.

    1. Have you tried Google maps to look at the street? I followed your directions and I came up with Ne Arte Ne Parte.

      1. Tutti Frutti can be a candidate:

        That is one of my favourite dining experiences in Rome so far. It is not far from the more well known Felice.

        A nice overview of Testaccio restaurants is here:

        4 Replies
        1. re: jostber

          Thanks for the link! My friend and I are going to be in an apartment in Testaccio for week in July, so info on that neighborhood is helpful.

          1. re: jostber

            Yes, Tutti Frutti looks to be in about the right place, though I *think* that the place we went to was in fact on the next block north. Not positive though, since we had to walk around a bit to find a place open on a Sunday night.

            I am positive that it could not have been Da Bucatino.

            1. re: Steve S

              that would put you around Ne Arte Ne Parte at Via Luca Della Robbia 15 - Slowfood Guide says they sometimes offer fish cooked over charcoal - so that suggests they could do a grilled steak.

              see street view pics

              1. re: jen kalb

                That was going to be my thought,too and they are definitely open on Sunday.