Oahu Trip Report
Hawaii Chowhound Report
Oahu
My husband and I traveled to Hawaii in March, 2010 to spend time with in-laws who had invited us to share their almost two-week timeshare on Maui. Before heading over there, we decided to spend a few days on Oahu so that I could visit with an internet friend I had met when planning our China trip, and DH could revisit scenes from his youth when he was a young Naval officer stationed at Pearl Harbor. Mostly, as is typical for all my trips, this was a trip about eating with some sightseeing scattered in between meals.
After arriving at the Hilton Hawaiian Village around 8 pm, we dropped off the bags and walked over to Kalakua Avenue and up to the DFS Galleria. I was in quest of Sam’s Kitchen, facing the Galleria in the little marketplace area next to an ABC store, and Sam’s turned out to be easy to find. I ordered Coconut Garlic Shrimp and DH ordered curry chicken. Both the shrimp and the chicken were tasty, but the rice was mushy. Possibly the worst piece of corn on the cob I have ever eaten was served with the meat, rice and salad. The corn tasted as if it had been sitting in a pot of water all day… ugh! I had chosen Sam’s because I wanted a Hawaiian-style experience for our first meal and given the hour, after a long day of travel, didn’t want anything fancy, formal or time-consuming. Service was quick, the food was filling, and the price was right, but some of the reviews I had read of this place oversold it.
The next day we drove to Kailua (which is a wonderful drive over the Pali Highway). There we had a Fodors gtg at the Kalapawai Market Café where we met my long-time Fodors friend, Marksfour, her husband, my college classmate and two of Marksfour’s Fodorite friends. We enjoyed lots of lively conversation over an assortment of foods including stuffed chicken breast, Greek salad, eggplant, and a chicken skewer. The market has lots to choose from and everything looked wonderful, although the meal was less interesting than I thought it would be from the appearance of the food in the display case. Because each person could order when they arrived (and the group tended to drift in), this was a good casual spot for this type of gtg, but definitely not a great foodie destination.
Then it was on to Agnes’ bakery for warm, freshly baked plain malasadas. These were my introduction to malasadas, and I thought they were delicious. There was no way I could visit Kailua and not stop at Agnes’s, since malasadas were high on my “to-eat” list.
I had made a reservation for Alan Wong’s for dinner before leaving NY. After ample consideration of the merits of the five-course and seven-course tasting menus versus the ala carte menu, I decided my husband and I should go with the five course menu, and I think that was the right decision since we would never have had room for more. We arrived at Alan Wong’s a little early, and chatted with a lovely couple while waiting for our tables to be ready.
We started off with the magical soup and sandwich and crispy wonton with ahi poke first course. This soup and sandwich, which is like no soup and sandwich I have ever eaten, was wonderful. I loved every bite… complex, and wonderful. Next came the seafood dumpling and buttery lobster, which I also enjoyed immensely. By this point, I was in heaven and loving this dinner. Third on the course list was the Onaga. The first bite tasted a little too gingery, but then the rest of the bites were delicious… not sure if I just got too much ginger with my forkful, or my palate adjusted. I also adored the corn and mushrooms mixture on which the onaga was perched.
Every one of the first three courses on the tasting menu was wonderful, but then, strangely enough, I found the final two courses disappointing. For me, the Short Ribs Kalbi style dish was just too cloying and sweet. I was surprised since I usually love ribs, and had never before encountered anything too sweet, but this was my first big meal in Honolulu, and I was to discover that this is the place where menu items can be too sweet, even for someone with as developed a sweet tooth as mine. The two desserts were also just too sweet. Maybe it was a lack of contrast, or maybe you have to be a local to appreciate this, but neither dessert pleased me. What a strange ending to a meal which started with such promise!
Our service team was wonderful, and provided seamless service throughout the meal along with a running commentary. The waiter and runners were informative and charming. Although this was one of our priciest meals in Hawaii, there was tremendous value in the $75 tasting menu, and I was enough satisfied with the first half of the meal to look forward to a return to Alan Wong’s or perhaps the Pineapple Room on my next visit.
My dining companion, as always, said it was “fine.” Food is not his thing, and throughout this trip, he left the ordering up to me and was content to split the food so I could try more items (this is a marriage which has lasted a long time for some very good reasons, and this is one of them!) We took taxicabs both to and from the restaurant because it was raining hard and it was too far to walk from our hotel.
The next day we took some of our Hilton Hawaiian Village dollars (from the Hilton Vacations presentation) to lunch in the resort’s Tropics Grill on the beach. There is a lovely view of the beach here and the Atlantis dock, and those walking on the beach boardwalk (which isn’t made of boards… it’s cement). We enjoyed our lunch, which consisted of a Greek Salad and Fish and Chips. The salad was excellent and very large. The Fish and Chips was far from the best I’ve eaten, but the fish was tasty and the chips, while not super crispy, were okay. The service was very good. Tropics is fine if you’re eating for free or happen to be staying at the resort, but there are undoubtedly better, less expensive places for lunch in Honolulu.
After lunch we took a walk to see more of Waikiki and to sample Leonard’s Bakery malasadas. We strolled down to Kapahulu Avenue and turned the corner, where I was expecting to see all the eating places I knew were there – the Rainbow Drive In, Rico Tacos, Ono Hawaiian Foods, and our destination, Leonard’s Bakery. Much to my surprise, there were no storefronts for many blocks (I had imagined a Kapahulu Avenue with shops where instead there were hotels, fields, medical facilities, schools, a zoo, and lots of gas stations. It was many, many blocks (yes, we kept walking!) before we got to the beginning of the foodie heaven that Kapahulu is (just before the H1!). Not actually hungry, we passed by all the interesting foodie destinations, stopped to get DH a cheap haircut, and finally arrived at Leonard’s Bakery, home, according to many, of the best Hawaiian malasadas. Wow, I’d have to say they were worth the walk and worth the long line (it moves quickly) on which we stood. I ordered three malasadas (plain, custard, and custard with lilikou also known as passionfruit.) and enjoyed all of them with some low-fat milk (naturally low fat!). Even though it has been forty years since I ate them, I am always searching for another taste of the best doughnuts I ever ate. Those were fruit-filled, sugar-coated doughnuts from a shop in Cambridge, England. That place is long gone, but eating Leonard’s malasadas made me wish the Leonards folks would bake these same doughnuts with fruit fillings instead of custard. Anyway, Leonard’s won my personal Agnes/Leonard competition.
For dinner we joined the two women we met the day before at a bar/restaurant in Waikiki which one of them was reviewing. Genius Bar and Grill serves (according to my expert friend) Japanese izakawa bar food of the type served nowadays in Tokyo. In order to make the best choices for the review (and of course for our dining enjoyment), she asked the owner to recommend some dishes for us to try. He suggested we start with some sake samplers (there are dozens of sake brands on offer, but the nine we tried were totally sufficient for us). Being sake novices, DH and I shared the “mild sweet and light sampler, while our companions ordered a set of the medium (called the genius sampler) and the connoisseur (drier and earthier) sampler. Before this evening, I had sampled sake twice before, never particularly liking what I tasted, but this time I liked it quite a bit, so I guess for me, mild sake is the right choice.
We started our food sampling with some cream cheese poke flavored with wasabi and shoyu and topped with bonito flakes and crunchy flying-fish roe and a trio of dips and pita triangles including boursain cheese, local tomato salsa, and a taramo salad (a concoction of smoky cod roe mixed into mashed potatoes). Because we enjoyed the cream cheese poke so much, we ordered the Spicy Ahi Poke with a miso sauce (and didn’t like it as much without the cream cheese). Next up was a Sauteed Chicken dish with a Spicy Relish Dip, Japanese-influenced Loco Moco (breaded and fried chopped beef, rice, gravy made with demi-glace and a sunny side egg on top), and my least favorite dish of the evening, Pasta Vongole (usually one of my favorites). I think it was a combination of the canned clams (ugh!) and the furijitsu seaweed flavoring added to the sauce. I was assured that this dish would be very popular in Japan, but I would definitely not order it again.
This was one of the strangest meals I have ever eaten, but it was quite enjoyable. The unusual combinations, the variety, the lively conversation, the charming setting (we were situated on a porch, seated on couches with fairy lights strung along the latticed railings, and the excellent service all served to create a special and fun experience.
The next day another college classmate of mine came by and drove us to Chinatown for a dim sum lunch. We were joined by one of our new friends from the night before, so the four of us were able to sample lots of dumplings at our destination – Tai Pan. After a short wait for a table, we were seated. This is one of those places where you want to be sure the wait staff knows you want a table and you need to be assertive. Otherwise, you could be standing there for a long time as the waitresses bustle around serving dumplings. Customer service is not what Tai Pan is about… it’s the dumplings and only the dumplings (but quite enough for me… I knew instantly that this was my kind of place!) We looked at the signs on the wall, which included some daily specials, and some of the baskets being served around the room and in the display case before ordering. Then we chose Fried Seaweed Seafood Roll, Har Gao, Fried Shrimp (with super crispiness), Spare Ribs, Char Siew Bau, Scallop Luk Fun, and two orders of Xiǎolóngbāo. All of this food, which was delicious and filling, cost less than $30.
For dessert we drove over to Shimizu Shave Ice (our local expert’s pick for the best shave ice in Honolulu). I ordered a small (which was gigantic) shave ice with ice cream, covered with three syrups – crème brulee, chocolate peanut butter, and coconut (I passed on the Red Velvet, which I like when it’s a cake, but am not ready to eat on shave ice.) This was my first experience with shave ice, and I have to admit that I’m just not into it. I needed to have that shave ice experience, but I’m happily going back to ice cream cones from now on.
After a relaxing remainder of the afternoon, we took a cab over to 3660 on the Rise to sample Russell Siew’s cuisine. “Sample” turned out to be the operative word since we ended up ordering two samplers. First up, we tried the Appetizer Sampler described as perfect for two, but actually enough for three. On the platter were Calamari with a Tomato and Mayonnaise Sauce, Ahi Poke, Asian Slaw, Garlic Fried Shrimp on a bed of Fried Spinach with Garlic Aioli, and the piece de resistance -–Fois Gras and Beef Tenderloin Tortellini (which could just as easily have been labeled as dumplings) with Mushroom Jus. We enjoyed all of the appetizers. DH ordered a bowl of corn and clam chowder and I had a half order of the Mesclun Salad with Tomatoes and Lemon Miso Dressing… all good although the clams in the soup were from a can (why aren’t there fresh clams on Oahu? We get Manila clams in NY and that’s a lot farther away!)
Knowing we couldn’t eat that much more, we split one main course – Wild New Zealand Salmon in a glaze with Sweet Potato Croquettes. The latter were a surprise to me because they were purple sweet potatoes in a fried nori crust… definitely not your typical potato croquettes, but tasty. This was followed by the second sampler, this one a dessert sampler with Crème Brulee with Choclate Crust, Panna Cotta with Strawberries, and Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce. All of the desserts were delicious and much to my delight, not overly sweet.
Our meal at 3660 was delicious and I can now understand why people like this restaurant so much and return often. I wish it were a little closer to where I live so I could, too. In addition to the excellent food, I want to once again commend the excellent service staff. We were well taken care of throughout the meal by a team of very pleasant young people who were knowledgeable, easy going, and efficient.
Although this was my first visit to Oahu, it certainly won't be my last. I look forward to returning for more of what I loved on this trip and a chance to sample those places for which we ran out of time.
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Leonard's Bakery
933 Kapahulu Ave, Honolulu, HI 96816
Alan Wong's Restaurant
1857 S King St Fl 3, Honolulu, HI 96826
3660 On the Rise
3660 Waialae Ave Unit Frnt, Honolulu, HI 96816
Agnes Portuguese Bake Shop
46 Hoolai St, Kailua, HI
Kalapawai Market
306 S Kalaheo Ave, Kailua, HI
Tai Pan Dim Sum
100 N Beretania St # 167, Honolulu, HI
By wiselindag
on May 7, 2010 09:12 AM
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Thanks for the detailed report, the sort that makes Chowhound as valuable as it is (and the Maui report too). And WELCOME BACK again. There are lots more good food spots to be enjoyed.
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Mahalo for taking the time to report. Sounds like a nice culinary adventure.
Over the decades, we try to build in O`ahu for most trips, just to dine there.
While the Hilton property is near to many things, some of the very good to great restaurants are a bit of a drive (taxi for us, 'cause we're both winos), like Alan Wong's, Chef Mavro's, 3660 on the Rise, and some others.
Heading in your footsteps at the end of the week, and hope that I can do half as well.
Aloha,
Hunt
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Alan Wong's Restaurant
1857 S King St Fl 3, Honolulu, HI 96826
Chef Mavro restaurant
1969 South King Street, Honolulu, HI 96826
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great report. will be in Oahu in August for my Hawaii 5-0 BDay and will take your list w/me.
Bill, anything else to add for me to try. will likely stay in HNL for a few days and spend the rest of the time in Kailua and somewhere along the Norhshore. we're renting a car so will mobile. I want local flavor!
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Hello EC!
You already know my penchant for "fine dining," so here's my go-to list:
Alan Wong's King Street
Chef Mavro's King Street
La Mer @ the Halekulani (highest-end of the bunch)
Orchids @ the Halekulani for Sunday Brunch*
3360 on the Rise - lower down the list in $, but you will NEVER realize that, until the bill comes
Indigo in Chinatown
Hau Tree Lanai (others have had issues, but they have always stepped up for us.)
Michel's @ Colony Surf (did not impress us at all, but many others sing praises)
Have to admit to being a Roy Yamaguchi fan, but have never had that great a meal on the Islands, as on the Mainland. Now, it is my understanding that all US Mainland restaurants are part of Outback Steakhouse, and this distresses me, but they have always proved to be better.
For lunch with a real "Bucktown flavor," Nico's Pier 39 is the spot - right in the commercial fishing harbor. Cheap (poor wine choices - really, really poor, but one can overlook), and very fresh.
Lot's of great lunch spots, but we are usually on the golf course, and saving ourselves for a 15 course tasting menu, so over the last 2.5 decades, probably have missed many.
Enjoy, and a big Aloha to you. When are you there? I leave on Friday May 14 to meet with wife at LAX, and we fly over on May 15, but will start on the North Shore of O`ahu.
If you see some old, white bearded fella' in a dbl-breasted blazer with a white Panama hat, come up and say hello!
Hunt
* Sunday Brunch at Orchids is rather like Friday lunch at Galatoire's - gotta' experience it to believe it. Great reason to dress up on a Sunday! In a few ways, it reminds me of NOLA dining in the '50s. Ladies in white gloves with hats, gentlemen in suits, even in the Tropics. Arrive early, and spend the entire day there, just taking in the food and the atmosphere. One probably has 50+ courses to choose from. We have tried most, over time, and all were good, even if we needed a tourist to explain some of it to us - as we neither speak Japanese. Fortunately, most of the tourists are far more multi-lingual, than we are, unless it's French wines (my big passion) or French food (my wife's big passion). It is a real show, and a lovely one with great food. In my travels, it is the 3rd best brunch, that I have ever encountered, and #'s 1 & 2 are now history.
Sorry that Outback Steakhouse appears in the links. It should not, but I cannot seem to be able to remove the link - ah, the new fora.
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Alan Wong's Restaurant
1857 S King St Fl 3, Honolulu, HI 96826
Chef Mavro restaurant
1969 South King Street, Honolulu, HI 96826
La Mer
2199 Kalia Rd, Honolulu, HI 96815
Hau Tree Lanai Restaurant
2863 Kalakaua Ave, Honolulu, HI 96815
Outback Steakhouse
325 Keawe St, Lahaina, HI 96761
Halekulani
2199 Kalia Rd, Honolulu, HI 96815
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thnx for the great list Bill. won't be there til August. have a great trip! cheers!
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Unfortunately, just as we were boarding in LAX, wife got a call, and we had to cancel the whole trip! At least I got her to Sedona for her b'day, but now we're looking at Nov/Dec, instead.
Bummer, but comes with the territory,
Hunt
PS - will report, as we hope to reconstruct that aborted trip.
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sorry to hear this and hope all is well otherwise.
still planning my Hawaii 5-0 BDay trip in August and will report back.
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We are hoping to reschedule a similar trip in Nov - Dec, which is more like our normal trips - late Sept, thru early Dec.
Unfortunately, you might have read of the issue, that brought us back to PHX, in USA Today, or even the Wall Street Journal. Not pretty, and not settled yet. Still, we are used to similar, and try to roll with the punches. We substituted two weeks on O`ahu, for a few days in Sedona, AZ, for my wife's actual b'day.
Will reconstruct all that we can, and see what we can enjoy.
Enjoy your trip, and I hope that all will be perfect for you.
Aloha,
Hunt
PS - thank you for all that you do on the New Orleans board. It is far better, just having you posting!
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so far, I've booked Ola for the BDay dinner (staying in Punalu'u). beyond that, I have 8 pages of recs that I've gathered from this board.
will be in Waikiki only 2 days (Sat/Sun), 1 night (Sat), so I'm still undecided of where to go. I may just graze thru many places and play a drink and eat beat the clock. I do a lot of progressives in NOLA, so I'll need to investigate what are my best options of food in HNL where I can park and then walk to many places.
my return flight is not til 10pm Sunday, so I can probably get an early dinner in before heading back or do the Sunday brunch at Orchids.
thnx for the kind words about the NOLA board. I moved about 3 mos. ago, but keep a place there and plan to visit often. I'm limited in seafood selections here (and sadly possibly in NOLA), so I plan to eat my weight in seafood in Oahu.
~cheers~
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EC,
I would work Alan Wong's into the O`ahu leg. There have been a few, who were less than overwhelmed, and I DID miss my last trip - next Nov - Dec? Still, I have been dining there from the month that they opened, and the only time that I ever missed it was due to illness. I am obviously a big fan.
As for the Orchid's Sunday Brunch, I'd say that it will hold you over. If you do it very early (as we have), it's tough to even think about more food, during that day. If you do, then two places, at opposite ends of the spectrum, but on the way to HNL might do: Nico's Pier 38 on the harbor, just off of Nimitz Hwy, and Indigo in Chinatown. Both are good, and Nico's is the "dive," but great, and Indigo is up-scale, but not at the AW, or La Mer level, and also good.
If I did Orchid's and then either, I would have to pass on even the peanuts on the flight back. If there was a meal, say in FC, I would do Orchid's, and enjoy the afternoon, and just dine on the plane home - whatever that might be.
Enjoy, and travel safely.
Aloha,
Hunt
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Alan Wong's Restaurant
1857 S King St Fl 3, Honolulu, HI 96826
La Mer
2199 Kalia Rd, Honolulu, HI 96815
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Bill & EC - Nico's is closed on Sunday.
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By "closed," do you mean like for renovations, or do you mean "CLOSED?"
If the latter, then bogus!
I will refrain from telling my wife, as her ahi was always way up above the $40 versions, at fine-dining restaurants.
Please tell me that it's just for a fresh coat of paint... please.
Hunt
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It's clear what I said, it is "Closed" on Sundays, not open. M-Sat only.
They do have a website.
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Wow, did not read correctly. Thanks for the clarification, as I had gotten very worried. Eyes are just too tired this week, so hope I get better at reading comprehension.
Mahalo,
Hunt
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Completely understandable! They've been cranking away as has Hank's Haute Dogs since being featured on "Diners, Drive Ins & Dives." I am glad they both are doing so well!
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Hank's Haute Dogs
2330 Kalakaua Ave, Honolulu, HI
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Hope you have (had?) great meals.
Will be interested in your 'new' reviews of the top places.
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Aloha and great report!
I'll be there in September and always enjoy eating my way through O'ahu..cheap eats and fine dining at its best..any great happy hours?
Bill..sorry you had to cancel your trip..wish we could all meet for mai tais at the Royal Hawaiian.
Mahalo to all and counting down the days for Leonard's malasadas!
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