Looking for great food in Kent and London with a 4 year old in tow

[LulusMom]

Hi,

We'll be visiting the UK in early June with our 4 year old daughter. She's used to dining out in the US (and in the UK/Europe) and is well behaved, but I do realize that certain places just are not appropriate for a child. She eats pretty much everything (favorites: escargot and olives, only known dislike: hard boiled eggs), but I don't eat red meat. What is most important is high quality food in a comfortable enough setting (and she can take fairly fancy, but again, I do not want to make other people uncomfortable).

We'll be starting our trip touring around Kent, staying in Royal Tunbridge Wells, so recommendations there are especially appreciated. Didn't find much in searching the board.

After that we will have 3 nights in London (Bloomsbury), 2 without her father along. I was thinking Great Queen Street for one of the nights. Was fairly disappointed with the Last Running Footman last time I was in London, but reports seem to be that GQS is much better than that. True? I also seem to remember being intrigued by someplace French on Baker Street (Galvin?) - does this ring a bell for anyone, and is it going to be ok (with an early-ish dinner) for a 4 year old? Any other recommendations? Walking distance is a plus.

Thanks very much for any and all information/recommendations.

[LulusMom]

We had an absolutely wonderful trip to the UK. We all fell in love with Kent (and while it isn't really part of Kent, Rye was a special favorite). We also ate very well. I grabbed as many menus as I could to help me remember what we had, so there are bits and pieces missing here where I somehow didn't get a copy, and the wine we drank softened my memory!

Our first stop was at Sankeys in Tunbridge Wells. This was the evening of the day we got there, and we were working on 2 hours sleep and just didn't have the energy to work hard to find someplace special. Still and all, this place has gotten it's fare share of good reviews. Not really deserved. It was fine, but my fish wasn't totally cooked through (we're talking sole here, so it was sort of jelly-like in the middle). The outside was wonderful, but ... a bit gross inside. Husband enjoyed whatever it was he had, and Lulu just got fish and chips: fine enough, but certainly not the best she got while there.

The next night we did much better, thanks to the Good Food book (and all of you who recommended it). We stopped at the George and Dragon in Speldhurst. Wonderful. I started with local asparagus with a poached egg an hollandaise, perfectly done; husband had confit of local rabbit with Indian military (can someone explain what the military means?) chutney and toast. He adored this. For dinner he and Lulu both got the Spring risotto with asparagus, peas, broadbeans and local goats cheese while I had the Hot roast smoked salmon with new potatoes, lemon and herb vinaigrette. Wonderful all around. I had local beer with my meal, husband had french wine (our waiter was french, although the place feels totally like a British pub, at least to me).

The next evening was The Great House, in Gills Green. Husband found this somehow with his blackberry. Very good, although maybe not *quite* as good as the George and Dragon. We started with olives and bread (Lulu cannot get enough olives) and some local champagne - very nice! Lulu and I shared a cheese board and it was superb: a local goat, Montgomery cheddar, Cropwell Bishop stilton and somerset brie (the only "eh" cheese on the plate, just sort of bland). Husband had Seared scallops, cauliflower puree, pancetta crisps, orange & ginger butter sauce. He raved too. I wasn't feeling particularly hungry, so ordered another starter as my main: the fish soup. There was something just a bit off with this. As in, I want to make sure I'm still feeling well in 2 hours. So I asked them to take it back, and was happy to see that it didn't cause a stir for me to do so. They weren't thrilled, but they did it. Got a salmon and herb fish cake instead (another starter) and it was fine ... how much can you expect from such a thing? Husband got Limousin beef, gratin Dauphinois, braised cabbage & salad Rib eye steak with green peppercorn sauce and was very happy. I was thrilled with the sticky toffee pudding we shared (this is something NO ONE makes here, and I just love it).

Onward into London, and our first dinner was at Great Queen Street. Fantastic. Totally comfortable, all the food great. And the strawberry and prosecco fizz made me break my usual rule of no fruit in my drinks. I got an octopus salad to start; it was a special that isn't on the menu, so I can't remember all the components, but it was absolutely delicious. I know it had broad beans and tapenade. The octopus was perfectly cooked. Lulu shared that and got some asparagus. Husband got pressed rabbit terrine. All raving. As mains, I got the confited duck, lentils and pickled walnuts (shared with Lulu) and husband got the rose veal tonnato. The two of them shared a sorbet. We left very happy.

The following evening we were lucky enough to be joined by one of your own - greedygirl (hope you don't mind me mentioning this gg!). She's an absolute sweetheart, as some of you probably already know, and we had a great time and a very good dinner, this time at Rasa Samudra. I didn't think to grab a menu here, so I'm going to be somewhat fuzzy on what we had. We started with a tray of different pickles/condiments and a basket of poppodums. We had a tilapia dish (my favorite, I think), a crab dish, a beet dish and an eggplant dish (also loved this). Two kinds of rice - lemon, and ...? Lulu started to implode around 10 (she never got a nap) so we called it a day.

Our final night we ate at Fino, and it was extraordinary. We ate SO much. Lulu went through 3 bowls of olives and then fell asleep in my lap (happily!). Laundry list of things we ordered: chorizo, wind dried beef, octopus with capers (lulu woke up long enough to scarf down some of this), arroz negro, tuna tartar with guacamole (2 of these - Lulu again), fresh peas with poached egg and truffle oil, asparagus with payoyo shavings. A gorgeous bottle of wine and some sort of homemade eau de vie to finish. Perfect.

thanks to everyone for the help. This was the best food I've had in England, and shows me that things are going very well there. I will rave about these meals for a long time.

[Harters]

Hey, I'm so glad you had a good visit.

We love Rye as well - spent a week there about five years back. Great little farmers' market - only about 12 stalls but we managed to buy something from each to cook a 3 course dinner one night (that included the wine and, from one stall selling herbs in pots, the table decoration.

I think the "military chutney" may be a brand name. If I had to guess I'd think that it was probably trying to imply that it was quite chilli-strong. I'd be unsure whether the origin would be in a perceived preference for our colonial white troops enjoying strong flavours, or whether it implies that it's the sort of chutney that the Indian troops in the British army might enjoy. Was it nice?

[LulusMom]

I'd love to go back and spend more time in Rye. Your dinner sounds like such a wonderful way to spend a vacation evening.

So, I've asked the husband (aka LulusDad) about the chutney. He says it was not particularly spicy, in fact somewhat on the sweet side. He did enjoy it, but insists it wasn't spicy. But then again, with him being used to my cooking, it is unlikely he would find most things spicy that might seem so to others!

Anyway, wonderful food, and thanks for your help.

[zuriga1]

Thanks so much for the great report. We live very close to Kent and you've inspired me to start nagging DH to get us there more often for a meal. I enjoyed a trip to Rye a few years back but mainly remember Simon, the Pie Man where I had a great cream tea.

[LulusMom]

I suppose a reservation is a good idea for Great Queen Street. How far in advance ... please don't say yesterday.

[greedygirl]

I'm sure you'll be fine for early June. If you want me to make some reservations for you, e-mail me. :-)

[LulusMom]

You're such a sweetheart (and I *do* owe you an email). Thank you so much for the offer. I made the reservation yesterday. Some places in NYC you have to book a month in advance, so I get a little nervous.

[cathodetube]

The Wolseley in Piccadilly would be good for an early dinner as it is open all day from breakfast. Very beautiful building and good for celebrity spotting. They have a very varied menu. You could go for a walk in Green or Hyde Parkor a have a visit to Hamleys Toy Store beforehand.

[greedygirl]

Bloomsbury is pretty central really. Have a look at Giaconda Dining Rooms, just off Charing Cross Rd. I will have a think about other suitable places - am suffering from a cold and post-election fatigue at the moment!

[LulusMom]

I've stayed in Bloomsbury a few times, but never found a place I loved to eat. I'm assuming this is some blind spot on my part, because, as you say, it is so central and seems like it should have plenty of good places. Will look into Giaconda, and hope you feel better soon! Very interesting election you had there!

[LulusMom]

Wow, thanks to everyone for the great ideas. Not having my map in front of me, I'm not sure exactly where Seasalter is, but will look it up. If it is near something on one of our days of touring, possibly lunch? I'd heard word of Thackery's but trust Chowhounds more than guidebooks, so thank you for that one. Will check the website.

PhilD, you've given me very good advice on Paris before, so I feel good knowing we had the same reaction to Only Running Footman.

If any of you think of more, keep them coming please! Much, much appreciated.

Bloomsbury?

[Harters]

"but trust Chowhounds more than guidebooks"

Don't, necessarily, in this case. Chowhound UK/Ireland is quite good for London - crap generally elsewhere in our two countries. I rely on my Good Food Guide far far more.

[LulusMom]

There is as guy from NYC who travels a lot, and I seem to have followed him around the globe the last year or two, and he helped me quite a bit with Wales and the Cotswolds (and somewhere else, on which my mind is blanking). But I will *definitely* keep in mind your comment! So ... what is the Good Food Guide? Is that a stictly British thing? Can I buy a copy here? Somehow never heard of it.

[Harters]

Good Food Guide - published by the independent not-for-profit Consumers Association. Without question, the most reliable and respected restaurant guide for the UK. If I'm travelling to an unfamiliar part of the UK, it's usually my first and last reference point and is far more comprehensive a listing than either Chowhound (which is not bad for London) or egullet (which is better for everywhere else in the UK).

You'll be able to buy through Amazon but you may need the UK site.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Good-Food-Gui...

[NYLONDave]

If you own an Iphone or an Ipod Touch the Good Food Guide is available as an app and I would think you can download it from itunes in the States (though you never know w/ IP these days).

http://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/the-go...

Dave

[LulusMom]

Harters and Dave, invaluable info. Thank you both so much. I am not sure which phone my husband has, pretty sure not an iphone, but will see if I can pick up the good food guide asap. thanks again.

[LulusMom]

I bit the bullet and ordered a copy from amazon (a random US seller). It says it will get to me sometime between May 14-June 1. Of course we're leaving June 1st, so I'll be nervously biting my nails until it gets here. Thanks again for the nudge.

[Harters]

If it doesnt arrive, feel free to drop me an email and I can look-up in mine (see my profile - and please mention chowhound in title). It's presented by county so should help with neighbouring ones while you're out and about.

[LulusMom]

Harters, that is an incredible kindness. Thank you so much - lets both hope I don't have to rely on you having to do so much work!

[PhilD]

Not surprised you were disappointed with the Only Running Footman, I was always mystified that it was recommended. GQS will be far far better.

[Harters]

I'm more familiar with the eastern part of Kent but, in Tunbridge itself, I know Thackery's is well thought of. Here's the link to the website so you can form a view as to whether it will be suitable.
http://www.thackerays-restaurant.co.uk/. Clearly reasonably upscale, I've no sense from the website as to whether it's the sort of place that will welcome kids.

As for the eastern part of Kent, may I suggest:

"Marquis at Alkham" (somewhere I discovered before its appearance in the Good Food Guide) - an absolute cracker of a place serving local ingredients.

Yew Tree at Barfreston - good gastropub

The Good Shed in Canterbury. And the Michael Caines restaurant at the ABode hotel (which should be pretty good if it is on par with my local one in Manchester)

The Allotment in Dover - not actually tried this place yet - on my list for my next trip through the port after seeing reccs on another board.

I agree with zuriga about the need to book early for the Sportsman - very popular since it gained its Michelin star.

[tonto21]

Yeah Sportsman is definitely a winner http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonto21/...

[PhilD]

...but a very long way from Tunbridge Wells. Which is a pity because it is great, and Stephen Harris is probably fantastic with kids as he has such a big warm personality.

[zuriga1]

For Kent, I would recommend a lunch at The Sportsman in Seasalter. We, here, all seem in agreement that the food is excellent, and your little one would enjoy running on the very nearby beach. But call now... it is a very popular spot.