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Amalfi area- Where not to miss??

sockster May 5, 2010 09:48 AM

We post a alot on CH but have never been to the Amalfi Coast- We'll have a car- where not to miss??

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  1. jen kalb RE: sockster May 5, 2010 12:18 PM

    what time of year are you going and how long do you have?
    by the way there are a couple of really great trip reports covering most of the towns if you search

    5 Replies
    1. re: jen kalb
      sockster RE: jen kalb May 5, 2010 02:24 PM

      Go to be in the Positano area first week July.

      1. re: sockster
        FattyDumplin RE: sockster May 17, 2010 06:35 AM

        there is a lemon ice vendor at the midpoint of hte mountain, as you are about to enter the main town area. it's 1 euro for a plastic cup full of the most lemony, refreshing and perfectly sweet lemon ice. i long for it all the time.

        1. re: FattyDumplin
          sockster RE: FattyDumplin Jul 4, 2010 12:49 AM

          went here yesterday...good call.... yummy!! His fruit was out of this world too. Full Amalfi insider report coming in a couple of weeks.

          1. re: sockster
            FattyDumplin RE: sockster Jul 4, 2010 11:19 AM

            glad you enjoyed. we have grom here in nyc and they do a lemon ice. it's not quite as good, but it's the closest thing i've found. and it was soooo cheap. i think i had double fisted them every time i walked up or down the hill.

            1. re: FattyDumplin
              sockster RE: FattyDumplin Jul 4, 2010 02:44 PM

              Had dinner on the water in META tonight...the lemon granita was on the house and amazing!!

    2. e
      ekc RE: sockster May 5, 2010 03:26 PM

      A good friend who lives in Raito swears by Aquapazza in Cetara and Lido Azzurro in Amalfi. Also aperitivo at Hotel San Pietro in Positano for the setting.

      17 Replies
      1. re: ekc
        quentinC RE: ekc May 17, 2010 04:47 AM

        We spent about 10 days there last summer-- Definitely go to Il Convento for lunch in Cetara- try the pasta with Colatura (the specialty of the town) and there is a great place (also for lunch) called Bar Mare down at the beach in Praiano. We rented a place so we blissfully cooked dinner most nights. We went to Aqua Pazza as well- it was good but beware of sticker shock! Everyone who ate there the day we were there were most impressed by the bill!

        1. re: quentinC
          sockster RE: quentinC May 17, 2010 06:05 AM

          Thanks, we're renting a place about 15 minutes from Positano, so we'll try Il Convento and Bar Mare.....and thanks to your suggestion avoid Aqua Pazza....we prefer to eat local not touristy high priced places.

          1. re: sockster
            quentinC RE: sockster May 17, 2010 08:32 AM

            It's definitely not touristy (well all Italian tourists when we were there...)-- but it IS high priced- but we felt the food at Il Convento was equally good- sit outside to eat, but definitely check out the interior of the restaurant

            1. re: quentinC
              jen kalb RE: quentinC May 17, 2010 10:17 AM

              these are both Slowfood picks, I believe so they cant be TOO expensive our touristy. I think some folks underrate how rare the local fish and seafood is becoming in Mediterranean waters - non-farmed fish in particular can get really pricy and can drive bills up a lot, at least that has been our experience. The local customers are really picky, too and things we might expect or take for granted (fish from deep sea trawlers that has been air-freighted in or spent a long time on ice, frozen calamari, etc) is not going to be tolerated. So the prices for what seem to us to be simple dishes can be high. So I explain it to myself.

              1. re: jen kalb
                quentinC RE: jen kalb May 17, 2010 11:12 AM

                We stumbled upon Aqua Pazza-- we had a fritto misto a pasta with colatura to share and a small fish with clams and an excellent bottle of local wine-- the bill came to 350 euros- there was no menu, and we didn't ask prices-- I don't regret a moment of it, but it was more than the 90 euros we spent at other places- including Il Convento. The fish and quality was high and most definitely local at both places.

                1. re: quentinC
                  jen kalb RE: quentinC May 17, 2010 11:38 AM

                  350 Euros!!!!! thats way out of line. Id say you were taken advantage of which can be a hard thing to stomach.

                  1. re: jen kalb
                    quentinC RE: jen kalb May 17, 2010 12:48 PM

                    I am afraid we were too.... I speak enough italian to understand that others were getting the same size bills... it was the ONLY place this has ever happened to me, we just thought it was the price-- i would love to know what other's experience has been. Have you been there, Jen? BTW I am an avid follower of your well informed writing.

                    1. re: quentinC
                      jen kalb RE: quentinC May 17, 2010 01:09 PM

                      thanks for the kind words.

                      I just hate it when this happens...the feeling of helplessness that you are getting fleeced as a one-time visitor. I guess they do it because they can, so online reports like this are a really good idea.
                      In theory putting yourselves in the hands of the waiter is a good idea, but that requires good faith on both sides.

                      1. re: jen kalb
                        jen kalb RE: jen kalb May 17, 2010 07:16 PM

                        ps I checked my guidebooks. Slowfood 2006 Osterie e Locanda lists Acqua Pazza alongside Al Convento and San Pietro - same general price range, 30-35 euros pp excluding wine. Rough Guide (May 2009 mentions it rather slightingly saying it "attempts to be the coolest restaurant in town but it too serves decent food". No change in management judging by their website and facebook page. Go figure.

                        1. re: jen kalb
                          erica RE: jen kalb May 23, 2010 05:14 AM

                          I would also recommend SanPietro...it is a little more "fancy" than Il Convento (which I loved). Cetara is the true food mecca of that coast, in my opinion.

                          1. re: jen kalb
                            quentinC RE: jen kalb Jun 8, 2010 07:25 AM

                            I just received Slowfood 2010 in anticipation of our trip this summer, and was curious to read about Acqua Pazza- but it is is no longer in the guide. Just FYI....

                            1. re: quentinC
                              jen kalb RE: quentinC Jun 8, 2010 07:49 AM

                              judging by this thread it probably has moved out of their price range - slowfood reccs max at about 35 euros per person.

                              1. re: quentinC
                                Food Frenzy RE: quentinC Jul 10, 2010 02:25 PM

                                Can you please share where you got the Slowfood 2010? I am not having any luck finding it.

                                1. re: Food Frenzy
                                  zerlina RE: Food Frenzy Jul 10, 2010 05:56 PM

                                  Osterie 2010 seems to be sold out at slowfood.it, but bol.it lists it.

                                  1. re: Food Frenzy
                                    jen kalb RE: Food Frenzy Jul 10, 2010 06:33 PM

                                    I ordered it from IBS.it - a very smooth process.
                                    The Slowfood org will not ship out of Italy anyway.
                                    Note that this book is in the Italian language

                                    1. re: jen kalb
                                      Food Frenzy RE: jen kalb Jul 10, 2010 07:44 PM

                                      Thank you, that is so helpful. I was going crazy trying to find it.
                                      I appreciate everyone's input on the Amalfi Coast. I look forward to trying many of the suggestions when I visit this September. Grazie!

                                      1. re: Food Frenzy
                                        jen kalb RE: Food Frenzy Jul 10, 2010 09:04 PM

                                        Looking forward to hearing your report!

            2. g
              GeraldI RE: sockster May 17, 2010 03:09 PM

              Two places to track down. The first, Lo Scoglio is actually on a private dock. Very rustic and delicious. Second place is up in the hills above Sorrento in St. Agata due sui Golgi (or something like that), which has been Michelin starred in the past (as I recall it was once one of only two three starred places in Italy). It is modern in style, mostly sustainable products--I was introduced to both by Diane Seed, a 35+ year resident of Rome, cooking instructor, and cookbook author.

              13 Replies
              1. re: GeraldI
                zerlina RE: GeraldI May 17, 2010 03:27 PM

                The second would be Don Alfonso in Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi:
                It has two Michelin stars.
                Alfonso Iaccarino is also associated with Baby, the restaurant at the Aldrovandi Palace in Rome (one Michelin star).

                1. re: zerlina
                  Sid Cundiff RE: zerlina May 22, 2010 09:48 AM

                  I ate divinely at Don Alfonso! Yet that was last in 2002.

                  1. re: Sid Cundiff
                    sockster RE: Sid Cundiff May 22, 2010 06:51 PM

                    Come on Sid...this is 2010....how about NOW!!!

                2. re: GeraldI
                  sockster RE: GeraldI Jul 4, 2010 12:51 AM

                  Look at Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa near Sorrento- Chef has one star. This will be part of my Amalfi Coast insider restaurant report in a couple of weeks.

                  1. re: GeraldI
                    Jane Hyde RE: GeraldI Jul 7, 2010 10:34 AM

                    Would you mind giving the location of Lo Scoglio? We will be Sorrento-based for three nights later this month. We've been there before and have to confess that it is the only place in Italy where we feel challenged to find non-touristy places to dine. Any suggestions welcome! Thanks. Jane

                    1. re: Jane Hyde
                      jen kalb RE: Jane Hyde Jul 7, 2010 10:57 AM

                      Here are a group of well-thought of restaurants (including all of the Slowfood choices) on the Sorrentine peninsula, including Lo Scoglio. I hope you enjoy your trip and report back.


                      1. re: jen kalb
                        sockster RE: jen kalb Jul 7, 2010 11:09 AM

                        Jen, there's nothing attached to your link-S

                        1. re: sockster
                          jen kalb RE: sockster Jul 7, 2010 12:22 PM

                          really? I click on it and it goes to the Restaurants and Bars page, if you scroll down you come to the list. If you try again and this isnt working, please tell me.

                          Here is a link to Lo Scoglio information. http://www.chow.com/restaurants/91629...

                          I generated the other list by clicking on the "browse nearby restaurants and bars" link below the Lo Scoglo map (the map takes some time to appear sometimes.) If you cant for some reason click through to any of this, here is a simple list of the linked places

                          Lo Scoglio 081 808 1026 - Piazza Delle Sirene, 15, marina del Cantone, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Quattro Passi 081 8081271 - via Vespucci, 13/n, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Charlot 081 8081100‎ - Via Capo d'Arco, Massa Lubrense,80061, IT

                          Antico Francischiello da Peppino
                          081/5339780 - Via Partenope 27, halfway between Sant'Agata and Massa Lubrense, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Taverna del Capitano
                          081 8081028 - Piazza delle Sirene, 10-11, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Maria Grazia 081 808 1011 - Via Marina del Cantone. 65, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Conca del Sogno 081 808 1036 - Via San Marciano, 9, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Relais Blu Belvedere
                          081 878 9552‎ - Via Roncato, 60, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061,

                          La Torre 081 8089566‎ - Piazzetta Annunziata, 7, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Don Alfonso 1890 081 8780026‎ - Corso Sant'Agata, 11, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80064, IT

                          Lo Stuzzichino 0815330010 - Via Deserto 1A - Sant'Agata sui due Golfi, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80064, IT

                          Da Giulia (081 807 2720 - Via Marina Grande 67, Sorrento,

                          Da Emilia 081 8072720 - Via Marina Grande, 62, Sorrento,

                          Frusta Sorrentino 081 8072034 - Via Attigliana,6, Sorrento,

                          Caruso 081 8073156‎ - Piazza Sant'Antonino, 12,, Sorrento, 80067,

                          Aurora 081 8781248 - Piazza Tasso,10, Sorrento, Campania , IT

                          O'Canonico 081-8783277 - Piazza Tasso 5, Sorrento, Campania 80067,

                          Il Buco 081 8782354‎ - II Rampa Marina Piccola (Piazza S. Antonino), 5,, Sorrento, 80067

                          Mami Camilla 081 878 2067 - 081 877 4574 - Via Cocumella, 04, Sant'Agnello, 80065,

                          Torre Ferano 081 8024786 - Via Raffele Bosco , 810, Vico Equense, Campania 80069,

                          1. re: jen kalb
                            sockster RE: jen kalb Jul 7, 2010 03:04 PM

                            Actually this link worked fine. I thought maybe cause I was here...but this one worked fine. INHO, cross off Il Buco, and Da Guilia- Both again, way overpriced for what the give you....Again, only in my opinion.

                            1. re: sockster
                              jen kalb RE: sockster Jul 7, 2010 08:12 PM

                              hey, your opinion if you visited these places is what people come to this board for - but "cross off" is not a helpful recommendation IMO unless the food is poor and you have a better recommendation in the same category nearby.

                              BTY The restaurant list for Campania on the Restaurant and Bar page which is exerpted above is a work in progress but is being gradually created using a group of current guidebooks - Slowfood, Gambero Rosso (both the Restaurant and low cost guides), Michelin, Carla Capalbo's Naples and Campania guide andFootprint, as well as internet resources including Luciano Pignataro, Katie Parla, Arthur Schwartz,Fodors, Frommers, Googlemaps and of course previous Chowhound reports for the region.. Anyone can add further restaurants and reviews to that section of the site - (please do!) eventually we will get a linking functionality, In any event, the goal is to include as many chow worthy restaurants as possible, not every tourist trap.. There is mapping and an accumulation of links to websites and online reviews and opening hours and menu info info (where time permits) to make it more useful. But the most useful info is actual chowhound reports like yours on this thread. Please keep up the reports!

                        2. re: jen kalb
                          sockster RE: jen kalb Jul 7, 2010 11:12 AM

                          And here's one more: TICO TICO- Incredible pizza on the beach..Via Caruso 3, 80062 Meta, Italy Also great ensalada di Mare- This place rocks!! Ask for a table UPSTAIRS (with a view of the beach).

                        3. re: Jane Hyde
                          sockster RE: Jane Hyde Jul 7, 2010 11:06 AM

                          Jane, I am currently in Piano di Sorrento. If you want fantastic, LOCAL, non touristy food, in a to die and go to heaven location, try IL PANORAMA- Via Pietra Piana 36. It's in Sant Agnello- Tel: 081 8083348- The owner is Luchiano, and it's him and his family.They have incredibly homemade food and it's just as incredibly (local), priced. Love to hear your thoughts if you go. Enjoy

                          1. re: sockster
                            sockster RE: sockster Jul 7, 2010 11:52 AM

                            BTW, I only try and eat in local restaurants...not the "critically acclaimed" types...so unless you seach, most of the places I write about, are our finds....Tico Tico, not so much, but Panorama for sure!!

                      2. s
                        sushiman RE: sockster Jul 12, 2010 11:05 AM

                        The two best restaurants are Zaccaria (If it has reopened) and Il Buco in Sorrento.

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