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May 5, 2010 09:48 AM

Amalfi area- Where not to miss??

We post a alot on CH but have never been to the Amalfi Coast- We'll have a car- where not to miss??

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  1. what time of year are you going and how long do you have?
    by the way there are a couple of really great trip reports covering most of the towns if you search

    5 Replies
    1. re: jen kalb

      Go to be in the Positano area first week July.

      1. re: sockster

        there is a lemon ice vendor at the midpoint of hte mountain, as you are about to enter the main town area. it's 1 euro for a plastic cup full of the most lemony, refreshing and perfectly sweet lemon ice. i long for it all the time.

        1. re: FattyDumplin

          went here yesterday...good call.... yummy!! His fruit was out of this world too. Full Amalfi insider report coming in a couple of weeks.

          1. re: sockster

            glad you enjoyed. we have grom here in nyc and they do a lemon ice. it's not quite as good, but it's the closest thing i've found. and it was soooo cheap. i think i had double fisted them every time i walked up or down the hill.

            1. re: FattyDumplin

              Had dinner on the water in META tonight...the lemon granita was on the house and amazing!!

    2. A good friend who lives in Raito swears by Aquapazza in Cetara and Lido Azzurro in Amalfi. Also aperitivo at Hotel San Pietro in Positano for the setting.

      17 Replies
      1. re: ekc

        We spent about 10 days there last summer-- Definitely go to Il Convento for lunch in Cetara- try the pasta with Colatura (the specialty of the town) and there is a great place (also for lunch) called Bar Mare down at the beach in Praiano. We rented a place so we blissfully cooked dinner most nights. We went to Aqua Pazza as well- it was good but beware of sticker shock! Everyone who ate there the day we were there were most impressed by the bill!

        1. re: quentinC

          Thanks, we're renting a place about 15 minutes from Positano, so we'll try Il Convento and Bar Mare.....and thanks to your suggestion avoid Aqua Pazza....we prefer to eat local not touristy high priced places.

          1. re: sockster

            It's definitely not touristy (well all Italian tourists when we were there...)-- but it IS high priced- but we felt the food at Il Convento was equally good- sit outside to eat, but definitely check out the interior of the restaurant

            1. re: quentinC

              these are both Slowfood picks, I believe so they cant be TOO expensive our touristy. I think some folks underrate how rare the local fish and seafood is becoming in Mediterranean waters - non-farmed fish in particular can get really pricy and can drive bills up a lot, at least that has been our experience. The local customers are really picky, too and things we might expect or take for granted (fish from deep sea trawlers that has been air-freighted in or spent a long time on ice, frozen calamari, etc) is not going to be tolerated. So the prices for what seem to us to be simple dishes can be high. So I explain it to myself.

              1. re: jen kalb

                We stumbled upon Aqua Pazza-- we had a fritto misto a pasta with colatura to share and a small fish with clams and an excellent bottle of local wine-- the bill came to 350 euros- there was no menu, and we didn't ask prices-- I don't regret a moment of it, but it was more than the 90 euros we spent at other places- including Il Convento. The fish and quality was high and most definitely local at both places.

                1. re: quentinC

                  350 Euros!!!!! thats way out of line. Id say you were taken advantage of which can be a hard thing to stomach.

                  1. re: jen kalb

                    I am afraid we were too.... I speak enough italian to understand that others were getting the same size bills... it was the ONLY place this has ever happened to me, we just thought it was the price-- i would love to know what other's experience has been. Have you been there, Jen? BTW I am an avid follower of your well informed writing.

                    1. re: quentinC

                      thanks for the kind words.

                      I just hate it when this happens...the feeling of helplessness that you are getting fleeced as a one-time visitor. I guess they do it because they can, so online reports like this are a really good idea.
                      In theory putting yourselves in the hands of the waiter is a good idea, but that requires good faith on both sides.

                      1. re: jen kalb

                        ps I checked my guidebooks. Slowfood 2006 Osterie e Locanda lists Acqua Pazza alongside Al Convento and San Pietro - same general price range, 30-35 euros pp excluding wine. Rough Guide (May 2009 mentions it rather slightingly saying it "attempts to be the coolest restaurant in town but it too serves decent food". No change in management judging by their website and facebook page. Go figure.

                        1. re: jen kalb

                          I would also recommend is a little more "fancy" than Il Convento (which I loved). Cetara is the true food mecca of that coast, in my opinion.

                          1. re: jen kalb

                            I just received Slowfood 2010 in anticipation of our trip this summer, and was curious to read about Acqua Pazza- but it is is no longer in the guide. Just FYI....

                            1. re: quentinC

                              judging by this thread it probably has moved out of their price range - slowfood reccs max at about 35 euros per person.

                              1. re: quentinC

                                Can you please share where you got the Slowfood 2010? I am not having any luck finding it.

                                1. re: Food Frenzy

                                  Osterie 2010 seems to be sold out at, but lists it.

                                  1. re: Food Frenzy

                                    I ordered it from - a very smooth process.
                                    The Slowfood org will not ship out of Italy anyway.
                                    Note that this book is in the Italian language

                                    1. re: jen kalb

                                      Thank you, that is so helpful. I was going crazy trying to find it.
                                      I appreciate everyone's input on the Amalfi Coast. I look forward to trying many of the suggestions when I visit this September. Grazie!

                                      1. re: Food Frenzy

                                        Looking forward to hearing your report!

            2. Two places to track down. The first, Lo Scoglio is actually on a private dock. Very rustic and delicious. Second place is up in the hills above Sorrento in St. Agata due sui Golgi (or something like that), which has been Michelin starred in the past (as I recall it was once one of only two three starred places in Italy). It is modern in style, mostly sustainable products--I was introduced to both by Diane Seed, a 35+ year resident of Rome, cooking instructor, and cookbook author.

              13 Replies
              1. re: GeraldI

                The second would be Don Alfonso in Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi:
                It has two Michelin stars.
                Alfonso Iaccarino is also associated with Baby, the restaurant at the Aldrovandi Palace in Rome (one Michelin star).

                1. re: zerlina

                  I ate divinely at Don Alfonso! Yet that was last in 2002.

                  1. re: Sid Cundiff

                    Come on Sid...this is about NOW!!!

                2. re: GeraldI

                  Look at Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa near Sorrento- Chef has one star. This will be part of my Amalfi Coast insider restaurant report in a couple of weeks.

                  1. re: GeraldI

                    Would you mind giving the location of Lo Scoglio? We will be Sorrento-based for three nights later this month. We've been there before and have to confess that it is the only place in Italy where we feel challenged to find non-touristy places to dine. Any suggestions welcome! Thanks. Jane

                    1. re: Jane Hyde

                      Here are a group of well-thought of restaurants (including all of the Slowfood choices) on the Sorrentine peninsula, including Lo Scoglio. I hope you enjoy your trip and report back.


                      1. re: jen kalb

                        Jen, there's nothing attached to your link-S

                        1. re: sockster

                          really? I click on it and it goes to the Restaurants and Bars page, if you scroll down you come to the list. If you try again and this isnt working, please tell me.

                          Here is a link to Lo Scoglio information.

                          I generated the other list by clicking on the "browse nearby restaurants and bars" link below the Lo Scoglo map (the map takes some time to appear sometimes.) If you cant for some reason click through to any of this, here is a simple list of the linked places

                          Lo Scoglio 081 808 1026 - Piazza Delle Sirene, 15, marina del Cantone, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Quattro Passi 081 8081271 - via Vespucci, 13/n, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Charlot 081 8081100‎ - Via Capo d'Arco, Massa Lubrense,80061, IT

                          Antico Francischiello da Peppino
                          081/5339780 - Via Partenope 27, halfway between Sant'Agata and Massa Lubrense, Massa Lubrense, 80061,

                          Taverna del Capitano
                          081 8081028 - Piazza delle Sirene, 10-11, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Maria Grazia 081 808 1011 - Via Marina del Cantone. 65, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Conca del Sogno 081 808 1036 - Via San Marciano, 9, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Relais Blu Belvedere
                          081 878 9552‎ - Via Roncato, 60, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061,

                          La Torre 081 8089566‎ - Piazzetta Annunziata, 7, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80061, IT

                          Don Alfonso 1890 081 8780026‎ - Corso Sant'Agata, 11, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80064, IT

                          Lo Stuzzichino 0815330010 - Via Deserto 1A - Sant'Agata sui due Golfi, Massa Lubrense, Campania 80064, IT

                          Da Giulia (081 807 2720 - Via Marina Grande 67, Sorrento,

                          Da Emilia 081 8072720 - Via Marina Grande, 62, Sorrento,

                          Frusta Sorrentino 081 8072034 - Via Attigliana,6, Sorrento,

                          Caruso 081 8073156‎ - Piazza Sant'Antonino, 12,, Sorrento, 80067,

                          Aurora 081 8781248 - Piazza Tasso,10, Sorrento, Campania , IT

                          O'Canonico 081-8783277 - Piazza Tasso 5, Sorrento, Campania 80067,

                          Il Buco 081 8782354‎ - II Rampa Marina Piccola (Piazza S. Antonino), 5,, Sorrento, 80067

                          Mami Camilla 081 878 2067 - 081 877 4574 - Via Cocumella, 04, Sant'Agnello, 80065,

                          Torre Ferano 081 8024786 - Via Raffele Bosco , 810, Vico Equense, Campania 80069,

                          1. re: jen kalb

                            Actually this link worked fine. I thought maybe cause I was here...but this one worked fine. INHO, cross off Il Buco, and Da Guilia- Both again, way overpriced for what the give you....Again, only in my opinion.

                            1. re: sockster

                              hey, your opinion if you visited these places is what people come to this board for - but "cross off" is not a helpful recommendation IMO unless the food is poor and you have a better recommendation in the same category nearby.

                              BTY The restaurant list for Campania on the Restaurant and Bar page which is exerpted above is a work in progress but is being gradually created using a group of current guidebooks - Slowfood, Gambero Rosso (both the Restaurant and low cost guides), Michelin, Carla Capalbo's Naples and Campania guide andFootprint, as well as internet resources including Luciano Pignataro, Katie Parla, Arthur Schwartz,Fodors, Frommers, Googlemaps and of course previous Chowhound reports for the region.. Anyone can add further restaurants and reviews to that section of the site - (please do!) eventually we will get a linking functionality, In any event, the goal is to include as many chow worthy restaurants as possible, not every tourist trap.. There is mapping and an accumulation of links to websites and online reviews and opening hours and menu info info (where time permits) to make it more useful. But the most useful info is actual chowhound reports like yours on this thread. Please keep up the reports!

                        2. re: jen kalb

                          And here's one more: TICO TICO- Incredible pizza on the beach..Via Caruso 3, 80062 Meta, Italy Also great ensalada di Mare- This place rocks!! Ask for a table UPSTAIRS (with a view of the beach).

                        3. re: Jane Hyde

                          Jane, I am currently in Piano di Sorrento. If you want fantastic, LOCAL, non touristy food, in a to die and go to heaven location, try IL PANORAMA- Via Pietra Piana 36. It's in Sant Agnello- Tel: 081 8083348- The owner is Luchiano, and it's him and his family.They have incredibly homemade food and it's just as incredibly (local), priced. Love to hear your thoughts if you go. Enjoy

                          1. re: sockster

                            BTW, I only try and eat in local restaurants...not the "critically acclaimed" unless you seach, most of the places I write about, are our finds....Tico Tico, not so much, but Panorama for sure!!

                      2. The original comment has been removed
                        1. The two best restaurants are Zaccaria (If it has reopened) and Il Buco in Sorrento.