Eating our way through Sicily
We are about to spend a week in Sicily, based mostly out of San Vito Lo Capo in the Northwest corner of the island. Any and all recommandations on restaurants, markets or out-there local disches are very much appreciated. We promise to report back.
San Vito Lo Capo and Trapani not far away are famous for their couscous. RIstorante Monipia in Marsala is great and Le Tre Salette in Trapani is another solid choice. If eating your way through sicily, I would dedicate at least 2 days to street food in palermo (ballaro', capo market, borgo vecchio, arancina bomba, are just a few destinations in the city i would recommend.
I agree with the above poster and not miss couscous, especially the seafood couscousu Trapanese. Also the streets food in the Capo and Ballaro markets. Some such Frittula (offals and other bits and pieces of meat all cooked together with spices) is for the adventurous. But there arel octopus pieces, fried smelt, and the ever present arancine. From my last years visit, streets around the Vuccina market was going through total renovation and not worth visiting. Don Ciccio and Sant Andrea are good and reliable trattoria where one can have caponata, pasta con sarde, alla Norma, swordfish involtini, bollito misto, Sicily has some of the best and most elaborate pastries in all of Italy though I found them to be a little sweet for my palate. Palermo tops in that catagory: stop off at Pasticceria Alba or Spinnato. And great gelato, especially the pistachio, lemon and almond. One of the classic breakfast is a brioche stuffed with almond granita. Take the bus from San Vito Lo Capo to Palermo rather than trying to drive into the city: total chaos.
Sicily is a large island. If you can be more specific as to what areas you might be interested in, you might get some excellent responses. We started in Catania, then Siracusia, the west coast and Palermo. In 10 days, we hardly scratch the surface.
NE of Trapani, the hilltop town of Erice has 2 very well known pasticcerie, del Convento and Grammatico, and both make a local digestivo. Scopello and Castellamare del Golfo, towards Palermo, are seafood destinations, as is Mazara del Vallo on the SW coast. You're also close, of course, to Marsala: grab a good solera or vergine dry Marsala, which is hard to find in the US.
PBSF is totally right. Sicily is a huge island and picking a corner as you have is a great approach. I'm not a huge fan of the Vucciria, either. It has been totally devastated by tourism and Ballaro and Capo are much more authentic market destinations. However, the area around Vucciria still has some alleys worth checking out--zia pina on via Argenteria 67 is amazing. the food is super fresh, home made, rustic, and it is open only at lunch.
Sant'Andrea is good but definitely not a trattoria. It is a ristorante with prices to match. expect to spend at least 50 euros pp for a full meal.
Sicily is a paradise for food lovers. I guarantee this! A must TRY while in Sicily:
- Granita usually lemon ice, but they have in many different flavors now.
- Arancini - fried rice balls;
- Involtini di pesce spada - swordfish rollers.
Here I put together a list of the best restaurants in the island: http://sicilyguide.com/what-to-do/foo...
I'm going to Sicily together with a chef in October this year. We will stay in Scopello. My first time there. That Sicily Guide seems like a fine introduction, thanks.