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Stockholm in May (Part 1)

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YSZ May 3, 2010 12:53 PM

We're visiting Stockholm for a week and while my husband is at a conference, I'm roaming the city. Here is where I/we have been so far. When I was planning the visit, I didn't find a whole lot on Stockholm, so I hope this will be useful for others. I also took the liberty of emailing the slow food Stockholm chapter for ideas.

Backfikan: Went there for dinner Saturday night dinner. Definitely on the small and cozy side, still we were seated more quickly than I would have expected. Good bread selection (bread and crisp crackers), paper napkins. We shared the SOS platter (which stands for herring, cheese, butter), got several kinds of herring (in mustard sauce, dill, etc), a couple of slices of cheese, and more crackers from the house bread basket. Yum. My husband was turned into a herring fan on the spot.

I ordered the husmanskost (local specialty/fare), one of two specials that night, and got coalfish with beets and capers, boiled potatoes on the side. Very good white fish, pan-cooked, with a nice sweet and sour balance from the garnishes.

My husband chose the salmon with dilled potatoes. Somewhat to his surprise, this was a big helping of cured salmon artfully arranged into a giant rosette and a side dish of warm creamy potatoes. He liked it, but had expected a sauteed filet.

Other people sitting nearby had ordered the meatballs and I have to say, it looked delicious, a large mound of potatoes with many meatballs, accompanied by cucumber salad and lingonberry sauce. Definitely going back for that one.

We walked over to Gamla Stan for dessert and ended up at

Chokladkoppen: A small cafe on the square in Gamla Stan. I had a large, not too sweet hot chocolate. We shared a piece of the white chocolate cheesecake. It was huge and very very light, good if you like that style of cheesecake. It took forever to get our order - I think perhaps they had run out of milk. Nonetheless, it was pleasant to sit under our blankets, look at the square, admire a couple of random fencers whacking the cobblestones and each other, and contemplate how late the sunset is in northern Europe in May.

Sunday saw a sumptuous breakfast at our hotel,

Scandic Anglais: This is a really great buffet of about fifteen kinds of bread, five or six cheeses and an equal number of meats, fruit, a muesli bar, juice your own OJ station, eggs (hard and soft-boiled, and scrambled), soft pancakes, etc etc.

The weekday breakfast omits the pancakes sadly.

StikkiNikki: After an exhausting afternoon at the Livkrustmuseet (carriages, arms, and clothes), I needed ice cream and found my way to StikkiNikki for some of their homemade tastiness. They only had a few flavors, coffee, vanilla, pistachio, cookies and cream, and apple/pear sorbet. As I was deciding, they brought out a fresh tub, cherry. I tried their cherry and pistachio. I liked the cherry a lot, vanilla ice cream with swirls of cherry puree and fruit. Pistachio was okay, I think I prefer a more intense pistachio flavor. It was very pleasant sitting by the river in the sun eating ice cream.

I ended up tasting the coffee and stracciatella too. Nice threads of dark chocolate in the stracciatella. Like the pistachio, I prefer a more flavorful coffee taste. Both were good, just my subjective opinion.

Today I hit
Rosendals Tradgard: In a gorgeous garden setting, there is a cafe and a bake shop. It is not hard to find, but if you are riding a bike as I was, it is up a little hill which a three-speed can't handle. It would be a decent walk from the Djurgarden bridge and I'm not sure about bus service. They pride themselves on their wood-fired oven and resulting breads.

I had a great bowl of potato soup garnished with green onions, almonds, and some kind of oil, along with two slices of their bread. All the pastries and cakes are on a central table and just looked lovely. I decided to try the cardamon cake, since I love the spice, but don't eat it in anything other than indian food at home. I think I actually got lemon poppyseed instead, a little dry but very flavorful and well-suited to the blob of whipped cream I added. You can eat inside or outside, but I chose to sit in one of the greenhouses under a big vine. Lots of mothers with babies both there at the cafe and walking around the island, which makes sense. Get some exercise, eat some good food, have a nice outing with the baby.

I then bought some bread, a very flavorful whole grain, some cookies and a canelbulle (cinnamon roll, little twisted butter dough with a well-balanced topping of sugar, cinnamon and cardamon.

On the way back, to my hotel I managed to go by
Ostermalmshallen: which was on my list of places to check out. A multiple vendor food hall in a gorgeous brick building. Ended up buying some pickled herring from the fish vendor at the back. Extremely tasty on bread for dinner. I also bought a couple of apples from the fruit vendor at the front, not the best apples ever. Mildly crunchy golden delicious, but missing sugar and flavor. Really neat to see the building, but I didn't really get enough of a chance to check out the vendors.

Okay, let's hope I have the stamina to post again in a few days.

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  1. eviemichael RE: YSZ May 5, 2010 01:28 AM

    Thanks for posting this info! I really want to make it to Sweden someday and this is helpful.

    1. m
      meggersLS RE: YSZ May 15, 2010 02:40 PM

      Yes, thanks for posting! I'm headed to Stockholm on my way up to Umea in a week and was having a hard time finding info. Thanks for the tip on Ostermalmshallen! I went to their website (http://www.saluhallen.com) and found info on the restaurants and cafes within the food hall. Nybroe Smørrebrød - an open-faced sandwich place looked great for picnic fare! Can't wait to try it.

      1 Reply
      1. re: meggersLS
        markemorse RE: meggersLS Aug 1, 2011 11:09 PM

        Speaking of Umea....I'm headed up to that neck of the woods in a week....anyone got any Umea tips?

      2. Kat RE: YSZ May 18, 2010 02:45 PM

        Heading to Stockholm next month (provided our Icelandair flight is not canceled due to the volcano!) and appreciate the info. Thanks!

        1. WildSwede RE: YSZ Aug 2, 2011 02:04 PM

          Great report! Thanks. The good thing is, now that your husband is a bona-fide pickled herring fan, you can get several varieties of the Swedish kind at Ikea! ;-)

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