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May 1, 2010 07:14 AM

Luberon restaurant suggestions by NYTimes

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  1. Nitpick: There is no village called "Gordes en Provence". The town is "Gordes", and the "en Provence" part of that is strictly adjectivial.

    Also, frankly, I think there are some much better-value choices in these towns. Most of the choices indicated are highly overpriced, and directed that way because of the large population of tourists and expats there.

    In Lourmarin, for example, one of my favorite towns, I recommend Le Recré, a better choice than the one she chose IMHO. Lovely environment and terrific, creative food.

    6 Replies
    1. re: menton1

      We will be in les Baux and L'Isle Sorgue middle of June. Would love to hear of your recommendations for surrounding area~driving is not a problem. In 2006 we ate at
      Daniels, La Petite Maison(loved) and Le Vivier(a bit of a disappointment except for Kir Royale).

      It is somewhat difficult to find updated restaurant reviews for the area.


      We will be there for 7 nights visiting towns in surrounding area. including Cassis.

      1. re: plufmud


        Le Prevoté
        Le Jardin du Quai

        Les Baux:

        Le Cabro d'Or, Oustau de Beaumaniere (splurge)
        or La Regalido in nearby Fontvielle

        1. re: menton1

          For the Luberon side:
          I like Bartavelle in Goult not far from Isle sur la Sorghe.
          For the Alpille area:
          I second Le Cabro d'Or, Oustau de Baumaniere.
          Arles has quite a concentration of good eats: the Rabanel places leap to mind although I wish he had less of those solemn religious protocols.

        2. re: plufmud

          Due south of Le Baux, Le Bistrot du Paradou for lunch. Made famous by Peter Mayle, but now recovered and rediscovered by the locals. A different plat du jour daily. Starter, main, cheese plateau, dessert + 750ml wine to share per 2 people. Last visit, 2009, 49€ per person.

          1. re: plufmud

            We stayed at Les Carmes, a lovely B&B on a snail farm just outside Isle sur La Sorgue, and had one of the best meals on our trip to France there. As I recall, 3 courses including wine was about 35E per person. We also had a great dinner at Auberge de Lagnes in the small village of Lagnes.

          2. re: menton1

            FWIW, we did enjoy L'Antiquaires very much, certainly more than we did Rene Sammut's La Feniere. L'Antiquaires is very much as described in the article: light and airy, cool feeling in summer. Plays on provencial classics. When we were there, other diners seemed to be locals enjoying a special meal rather than tourists.

            Le Recrè is a totally different experience, more casual, less expensive, simpler dishes. Actually, I had forgotten it.

          3. I wonder why nobody in this thread has mentioned Edouard Loubet's La Bastide de Capelongue in Bonnieux. Several years ago (before he moved to Bonnieux) I was very pleased and impressed with two dinners I had at his Lourmarin restaurant.

            1 Reply
            1. re: fanoffrance

              Edouard Loubet has since earned a 2nd Michelin star and the prices in his restaurant reflect that! Still, the Bastide de Capelongue is lovely, with a magnificent view of Bonnieux from the terrace. They do now have a "Summer Restaurant" for lunches - it's open from June thru September and serves simple fare (part of the "Domaine de Capelongue").
              As for La Fenière, we used to go there on a yearly basis...until we discovered that, when the cat's away - Guy Sammut, husband of Reine (not Rene) - the mice don't give the type of service that her prices deserve. (Since when does a server in France fail to ask if you would like apéritifs? Or argue with you because you prefer to select your dishes before deciding on the proper wine?) Sammut too has a 2nd restaurant on the same property: La Cour de Ferme. Menus are extremely reasonably priced and the service there is not a problem. Food is tasty and well-prepared.

            2. Has anyone dined at La Beaugraviere in Mondragon or Les Florests recently? Mangeur, glad you mentioned La Feniere because I was seriously considering it.

              2 Replies
              1. re: plufmud

                I really don't want to discourage you. I have Rene's cookbook and have been delighted with all of her recipes. We were to have stayed at La Feniere, but there was a snafu with our reservation which probably put us off for our later dinner. We could well have had a chip on our shoulder. I did hate the food, but that could well have been my order, and we were put off by a loud pushy American table near us, which was not the fault of the house..

                My post was more a vote for L'Antiquaires than a veto of La Feniere. Re the latter, we are definately in the minority. Please follow your instincts and enjoy.

                1. re: plufmud

                  I eat at the Beaugraviere several times a year; the last time was this past February (for truffles.) Have been eating there since 1994 and it is my favorite place in the area. Food is delicious, great ingredients, but not overdone. Amazing wine list. I love sitting in front of the fireplace in cooler weather, or on the patio when it is warm. The decor needs work, but staff (and Madame Julien) are super friendly. Meals are about 29 euros (3 courses) and 45 euros (4 courses); plus there is a larger menu as well. A la carte, also.

                  I didn't especially enjoy the Feniere when I visited.

                2. Has anyone tried the Bartavelle in Goult? Merci

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: sderham

                    Said so earlier in this very thread: "For the Luberon side: I like Bartavelle in Goult"
                    Also said so in this earlier thread with Bartavelle in title: