What one order will expose the expertise of the kitchen?
I recently asked the owner of two of manhattan's best Italian restos what one item she would order from an italian restaurant that would immediately let her knowl her how good the kitchen was. Without hesitating, she said the carbonara
Next I asked a chef at Escoffier, the French resto at CIA, what one dish would tell him how good a French restaurant is. Surprisingly he said the omlette.
Your choice? From any cuisine.
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You want dishes that reveal command of technique *and* artful judgment. Eggs and fish are territory that quickly reveal lacunae. Also, the dishes should be ones where bold flavors are not available to mask those lacunae.
For example:
1. Real scrambled eggs (oeufs brouillés - not the lazy American broken omelet that typically passes for scrambled eggs). Omelets are kid's stuff.
2. Lean white fish (cod or haddock), prepared simply
3. Spaghetti carbonara
4. String beans
5. A variety of simple soups made from kitchen scraps (thrift is a fundamental kitchen technique - remember Jacques Pepin using his finger to get out all of the egg from the shell, and rebuking Julia Child's objection?)
6. A green salad, made entirely of one type of green, dressed only with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. -
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Caesar Salad. If you get croutons out of a box and dressing that is closer to ranch.... you can count on everything else on the menu being prepackaged frozen portion controlled institutionalized food.
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Italian: seafood risotto. This is a real tough dish to make well because getting the rice to be creamy but still have the texture of individual pieces of rice requires precision. Then throw in getting the seafood properly cooked (not overdone or underdone) and you have quite a challenge.
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