Etruscan ramble - foodie recommendations?
We are driving down to Rome/Naples via some of the northern Etrsucan sites - Volterra, Massa Marittima, Pitiglianao, Sovana, Tarquinia. I know it's a bit off the beaten tract but have any Chowhounds wandered down these byways? Would welcome any advice, from holes-in-wall to Michelin *. Thanks already!
Your best bet might be to track down a copy of the Slow Food Guide to the Osterias of Italy and see what they have to recommend. It is now published in English. I cannot recall any recommendations made here on this board for any of those towns over the past year or two.
You also might want to do a "Search this board" search for those towns, in case I am mistaken and there are comments here.
The last online version (in Italian) of the SlowFood guide that can be consulted by non-members is from 2006 and presumably the version the English-language guide published in 2007 was based on. It doesn't have very many recommendations in the area: Da bado in Volterra, Albana in Mazzolla, a village near Volterra, Da tronca and La tana del brillo parlante in Massa Marittima, Il mulino in Semproniano near Sovana.
You can also look at the recommendations at www.viamichelin.com, although they tend to be for high-end places or places more in line with French preferences than Italian ones. Trattorias marked with only one or two forks should be fairly local, though.
In Tarquinia, I can recommend the slightly upscale and slightly nouvelle Arcadia (Michelin does, too), which is right next to the Etruscan museum, for fish and seafood dishes, all incomparably fresh, at fair prices. Be sure to sample the very local white wine with the seafood. It's an exquisite match, and cheap. A local also recommended to me the more informal Cavatappi in Tarquinia, with classic local dishes, but it was briefly closed for some renovations during the time I was there so I didn't get to sample it.