Chilaquile Tour --> SF and East Bay.

[Fig Newton]

After a mention of chilaquiles this morning on Facebook, I have some friends hankering for a chilaquile tour of the Bay Area to compare/contrast different iterations of this dish. What are the *must haves* that you would include? I'm thinking of splitting it into two days: SF and East Bay.

Here's what I have off the top of my head:

SF:
Pastores
Papalote
Primavera

East Bay:
Otaez on Fruitvale --> are they still good?
Tacubaya

Any good chilaquiles verdes that I can include, or interesting renditions?

Has anyone been to Roosevelt Tamale Parlor in the past year or so? They have good chips, and were doing an ok red sauce last time I was there.

Thanks.

-----
Tacubaya
1788 4th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

Otaez
3872 International Blvd, Oakland, CA 94601

Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

Roosevelt Tamale Parlor
2817 24th St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[Glencora]

On Solano, both Fonda and Monteros have it. Fonda's (verde) was good; brunch in general is nice there. I'm not a fan of Monteros, but you might try it there, too, if you're in the area.

[Calvinist]

Pastores has my favorite (con Huevos) so you've got that covered.

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[Windy]

Mine too but with carne asada and tomatillo salsa.

SF is full of chilequiles with eggs made in a sauce pan. I'm still looking for oven-baked, made with chicken and tomatillo salsa.

[grayelf]

I'm with you, Windy -- I pine for the oven baked salsa verde versions of my youth :-). I've even gone so far as to make them myself but we can't get the right kind of crema here to top them with. Would love to hear of any such in SF for our next trip.

susan is right, we deffo enjoyed the chilaquiles at La Oaxaquena last trip, as they were a bit "sad" from having been pre-dipped in tomatillo sauce, and the egg was nicely cooked, though I'd skip the chicken as it was just a big ol' hunk o' breast meat. Sadly, our recent trip to this resto was rather disappointing, though we did not try the chilaquiles this time. The only saving grace was the pupusas which are not exactly Oaxacan... more on that and the rest of our meanderings when I get my computer back (currently using a half dead laptop).

How much would I like to be part of a chilaquile tour...

-----
La Oaxaquena
2128 Mission St, San Francisco, CA

[susancinsf]

you should have taken a bunch of crema back in your suitcase: I wonder if it would have lasted? :-)

[grayelf]

Considering they confiscated mum's 4505 chicharrones, I doubt the dairy product would have made it back into Canada :-(.

[mariacarmen]

i don't think i really know what chilaquiles are supposed to be like. i tried the tomatillo and egg ones at La Oaxaquena yesterday. They were, as you said, tho i'd forgotten your post, "sad" - droopy almost soggy tortillas. the egg was like a little omelet - is that what it's supposed to be? i envisioned sunny-side up. the egg had been overcooked, showing brown spots on the underside. the tomatillo sauce had a nice amount of heat, tho.... but there was nothing in contrast to the dish's flavor. crema would have been nice. the dish was sprinkled with cotija. the rice was completely forgettable (unforgivable in Mexican food, to me), and the refried beans had a very strange - not totally unlikeable - funk to them! i kept thinking of a cabernet, of something with a little musk, even fermentation. i don't know if they were bad or what (i didn't get sick) but they were probably the best tasting thing on the plate. A man sitting at the counter ordered one of the chicken tamales wrapped in banana leaf, and it looked/smelled wonderful, but after a bite or two he called the waiter over, who tasted the chicken, and it was determined it had gone bad. So i'm glad i didn't get the chicken. Also, service was really slow. i waited almost 35 minutes for my chilaquiles. I also had a pina licuado, and something about that was off too - like they had used old ice, i.e., that flavor you get from ice when it's been in the freezer too long? All in all, I was disappointed in La Oaxquena. And now i want to find out what chilaquiles are really supposed to taste like! The baked version you guys speak of seem like they would be better, have more texture.

-----
La Oaxaquena
2128 Mission St, San Francisco, CA

[susancinsf]

oh, no, IMO the eggs should NOT be like an omelet: either sunnyside up (so you can mix in the lovely yolk) or no egg at all..I haven't been to La Oaxaquena but nothing you are describing is making me eager to try it.

-----
La Oaxaquena
2128 Mission St, San Francisco, CA

[mariacarmen]

that's what i thought! the idea of a nice runny yolk to mix in is what drew me to order it. Ok, thanks then, it wasn't me.

[Ruth Lafler]

My experience with chilaquiles is that they vary, even with same restaurant. In a lot of Mexican restaurants, they don't seem to have a single person who formalizes how each of the dishes is to be made. Instead, a lot of times dishes like chilaquiles -- which are basically home cooking/leftovers -- are made however the cook who gets the order makes them. It's kind of like the arguments about whether pad Thai or chop suey are "real dishes" with the answer being that they aren't in the formal sense: they're not based on recipes, they're based on what home cooks throw together from what they have on hand, including leftovers/scraps from other meals, which varies from day to day, cook to cook and household to household. Attempts to formalize home cooking-type dishes almost always produce results that are either disappointing or "not authentic" (because the authentic version isn't made from a recipe and served in restaurants).

[grayelf]

FWIW the chilaquiles verdes I have had in days gone by while travelling in Mexico contained stale deep fried tortillas, salsa de tomatillo, queso of some kind, smallish chunks of chicken and crema added after they were removed from the oven. I don't recall ever having them with egg (but then again I used to hate eggs and wouldn't have ordered if they had 'em).

I'm sorry to hear they were so yukky as we really liked them in November, in fact preferred them to the ones at Los Pastores that we tried the next day.

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[mariacarmen]

See, Grayelf, that sounds like the tortillas would have been crunchier - so a nice contrast to the dish, instead of the soppiness i found. and crema! would have loved some crema. I was going to try Los Pastores next, but now I think I won't bother.

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[susancinsf]

for mariacarmen: oh you should definitely try them at Pastores! I think they are the best in the City and the closest to my homemade ideal (but then, eating in Pastores in like eating in someone's home, more or less, so that makes complete sense), despite grayelf's experience and the fact that she and I almost always share the same taste...

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[mariacarmen]

Oh! ok, then i will! i tried to go the other day for lunch, but they were closed. thanks!

[susancinsf]

yes, grayelf your description matches my experience also. Off to Mexico again in a day or two, research called for... :-) (though the best ones were the ones my friend's mom made for me....)

but the egg I can handle if I can mix in the yolk. But scrambled or in an omelet: no....

[grayelf]

mariacarmen, you should deffo try the chilaquiles at Los Pastores -- we only had them once and it could have been an off day. Plus it is a great place to check out as susan says but beware the whacky closing/opening hours as has been noted on many occasions here :-).

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[myst]

Alot of people like El Taco Zamorano on Foothill in Oakland. I have not tried it there yet because I can push my son in a stroller to La Pinata in Alameda and I like their green version. But I love the Chile Verde at El Taco, so I'm guessing chilaquiles would also be good.

-----
El Taco Zamorano Restaurant
4032 Foothill Blvd, Oakland, CA 94601

[Ruth Lafler]

I haven't had the chilaquiles at the Fruitvale Otaez for a while (I always order the verde). The last batch I had at the Alameda Otaez was disappointing. Otaez can be very inconsistent. I get the impression over the years that since they're doing essentially home cooking they don't have "house" recipes -- whoever is cooking at the moment makes it the way he makes it, and sometimes it's great and sometimes it's not. Other places you might try in Fruitvale are La Gran Chiquita and Four Caminos (which is on San Leandro a couple of blocks east of the BART Station.

-----
Otaez
1619 Webster St, Alameda, CA 94501

[susancinsf]

Grayelf had very good things to say about the chilaquiles at La Oaxaquena in October, and said she'd be interested in reports on them from other hounds, so that seems like a natural to put on your list (I haven't tried them, sigh).

I like the chilaquiles at the stand at the Alemany Market (blanking on the name) better than Primavera, but then I like almost any better than Primavera (I appear to be in the minority on this one, however). If/when you try them at Primavera, they also have them, or at least used to have them, at Mijita in the Ferry Building. I am not a big Mijita fan, but my last visit there was better than prior, and it would be interesting to have the comparison.

They also have a decent version at Mis Antojitos on Harrison in San Francisco, though made with red sauce (I prefer salsa verde).

As has been said here and elsewhere, the chilaquiles at Pastores are the best I've found in SF and should be at the top of anyone's list.

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

La Oaxaquena
2128 Mission St, San Francisco, CA

Mis Antojitos
2598 Harrison St, San Francisco, CA 94110

Mijita
Ferry Bldg Bldg, San Francisco, CA 94111

[nerdigrrl]

I like the chilaquiles verdes at Mi Gruillense on Fruitvale (the restaurant and bar, not the truck), just east of International. They're wet but not runny. yummm...
http://www.yelp.com/biz/mi-grullense-...

[Cynsa]

Chilaquiles at El Delfin. While I am tucking into the grande bowl of weekend pozole - the DH is enjoying his chilaquiles.

-----
El Delfin
3066 24th St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[calalilly]

Great post. Chilaquiles at Tres Hermanas in Richmond. Totally worth the drive.

-----
Tres Hermanas Restaurant
12620 San Pablo Ave, Richmond, CA

[pamf]

I was introduced to chilaquiles about 30 years ago at Roosevelt Tamale Parlor and have sought out this dish ever since.

Roosevelt's has changed hands (more than once?) since then, but the last time I was there was about a year ago and I was pleased with the food. It might not be the same as it was years ago, or just not as unusual, but enjoyable.

After many years of trying this dish every chance I get, my favorite restaurant version in the Bay Area is at Chez Shea in Half Moon Bay. You can get them with either red or green sauce, with chicken added or with two fried eggs on top.

Villa Corona in Vacaville does a pretty good too, but they scramble the eggs into the mix.

Since this dish is just about using up day old tortillas, it's pretty easy to make yourself. And to make it exactly to your taste.

-----
Roosevelt Tamale Parlor
2817 24th St, San Francisco, CA 94110

Chez Shea
408 Main St, Half Moon Bay, CA 94019

Villa Corona
1989 Peabody Rd Ste 9, Vacaville, CA 95687

[mlutsky]

El Huarache Loco on the weekends at the Alemany Farmers (Saturday) and Flea (Sunday) markets. Always a cool shopping scene and the chilaquiles are great. Should be a beautiful morning out there tomorrow.

-----
El Huarache Loco
100 Alemany Boulevard, San Francisco, CA 94110

[dcfb]

This is a great thread. We are on chilaquiles kick too.

I love the chilaquiles at Tamarindo in Old Oakland. Not too wet, spice is right, crema that rocked.

-----
Tamarindo
468 8th St, Oakland, CA 94607

[Jeni Bean]

Can't speak to "authenticity" per se, and I know people have hit and miss reviews of Q, but for a local neighborhood haunt, we really liked their Chilaquiles. Served Sat. and Sunday brunch.

From their menu: Horacio’s Muy Deliciouso Chilaquiles Tortilla Chips Baked with Tomatillo Salsa and Sharp Cheddar, Topped with Scrambled Eggs and Served with Black Beans, Salsa Fresca and Sour Cream -- $9.75

-----
Q
225 Clement St, San Francisco, CA 94118

[mightylittle]

I've had the Chilaquiles Verdes at Fonda on Solano...and they were superb, almost like breakfast nachos!

-----
Fonda
1501 Solano Ave, Albany, CA 94707

[anaxgorous]

Nopalito has a very good version. Very dry, almost all chips. But the sauce is outstanding.

-----
Nopalito
306 Broderick St, San Francisco, CA

[Windy]

Chips would not really be chilaquiles; it sounds like a shortcut restaurants are using because they have chips leftover.

It's basically a bread pudding made with stale tortillas. The stale base absorbs the liquid and the high temperature makes some of the edges crispy, and the inside soft.

[grayelf]

Is the chilaquile tour still on? I wondered if the OP or anyone else had any reports on Los Jarritos which I think was recently forced to change its name by the Mexican soft drink company (now Sanjalisco IIRC). I read somewhere -- tablehopper? -- that they have/had "kickass" chilaquiles...

-----
SanJalisco
901 S Van Ness Ave, San Francisco, CA 94110

[Windy]

No idea about the tour, but I've never been impressed with the chilaquiles at Los Jarritos.

-----
SanJalisco
901 S Van Ness Ave, San Francisco, CA 94110

[susancinsf]

definitely not as good as Pastores...for some reason I think they are on the dinner menu (not breakfast) there.

[grayelf]

Chilaquiles for dinner?!? Los Jarritos (or whatever it is now called) stricken from the list for blasphemic menu behaviour :-).

Windy, did you ever find any baked versions?

[Windy]

No, but I did have to go Pastores today, since this thread reminded me how much I've been craving chilaquiles.

Restaurants seem to all make them in frying pans, which makes sense since they're serving a customer at a time rather than a family of 20.

BTW Irma will serve them with tomatillo salsa if you ask nicely.

-----
Pastores Restaurant
3486 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

[ShepherdBGoode]

When the craving strikes, i head to the "Gillman" Grill, since it's 2 blocks away. Their version is eggs, with chips and chopped onions scrambled in, and topped with melted cheese. served with black beans, and a tomato salsa that resembles canned diced tomatoes, but without the canned flavor.

The chilaquiles at Tacubaya seemed pretty much like nachos; no desire to return. If I want nachos I'll go to Juan's Place.

-----
Tacubaya
1788 4th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

Juan's Place
941 Carleton St, Berkeley, CA 94710

[sydthekyd]

Ooooh- nachos on their flour torilla chips!

[Fig Newton]

Thanks for the replies. So far, we've completed the East Bay portion of this tour, with the SF version to come soon.

In the East Bay, we went to:

Tamarindo Antojeria (green)
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/4759306965/

La Calaca Loca (green and red)
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/4759942974

Picante (green and red)
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/475931232
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/4759312647

Tacubaya (red)
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/4759944628

Fonda Solana (green)
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvert...

I should first point out my bias that I like red chilaquiles much better than green. That said, the green chilaquiles at Fonda were a pleasant surprise. We ordered a plate with chorizo, which was finely sprinkled throughout the dish. It added a great flavor to the dish overall. Because of the atmosphere, good cocktails, and nice brunch options, I could see returning.

The red chilaquiles at Tacubaya were my favorite, and one of the general favorites among the group. I appreciate the depth of their chile sauce, and I like that the chilaquiles are wet enough, but not soupy. The chips remain pretty crispy.

Picante was the most disappointing. The red sauce had a sweet flavor (more like a not-great mole than the sauce I'm traditionally used to for chilaquiles), and the green sauce tasted generic and gloppy. Both sauces were pretty one-note. That said, the sides of beans there were delicious. It's confirmed my idea that picante is good for grilled meats and beans, but not anything with sauces.

-----
Tacubaya
1788 4th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

La Calaca Loca
5199 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609

Tamarindo
468 8th St, Oakland, CA 94607

Picante
1328 6th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

[escargot3]

How was the serving at La Calaca Loca?

-----
La Calaca Loca
5199 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609

[mariacarmen]

The Tamarindo ones look delicious! How did they measure up to Tacubaya's? or hard to compare because of red/green? I have to say, i went to Tamarindo once, not too long after it had opened, and wasn't all that impressed with anything....but those do look tasty! then again, so do the Fonda ones, which you liked, but maybe the green ones just photograph better? (your pics for Picante aren't turning up for me....)

-----
Tacubaya
1788 4th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

Tamarindo
468 8th St, Oakland, CA 94607

Picante
1328 6th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

[Fig Newton]

Picante Pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvertentgardener/4759312647
http://www.flickr.com/photos/inadvert...

La Calaca Loca's were pretty solid, actually. They were pretty basic, but the green chilequiles had good spice.

Tamarindo's chilequiles came in about 2nd or 3rd when polled the group later on their favorites. They were dry-ish with a decent spice. I would have them again.

Sorry that I didn't take more specific notes -- will do better on the SF tour!

-----
La Calaca Loca
5199 Telegraph Ave, Oakland, CA 94609

Tamarindo
468 8th St, Oakland, CA 94607

Picante
1328 6th St, Berkeley, CA 94710

[mariacarmen]

thanks! and looking forward to it. i have not yet become a chilaquiles convert, but i soooo want to...

[Jeni Bean]

Not in SF or East Bay, but Jeffrey's Hillside Cafe has chilaquiles verdes you can try if you come up this way.

JB

-----
Jeffrey's Hillside Cafe
2901 4th St, Santa Rosa, CA

[grayelf]

Response from Michael Bauer's blog
Pierre
August 11, 2010, 10:22 AM
Chilaquiles with a soft cooked egg and Salsa Verde at Colibri on Geary. Muy sabroso!

Has anyone tried them? Went to Colibri once several trips ago and it was uneven, but that was for dinner...

[susancinsf]

hmm...soft cooked egg and salsa verde...and while I also have found Colibri to be uneven, I *do* really like their tortillas. Grayelf, I nominate you to check it out and report back! (vbg)

[grayelf]

Hmm, either this item has changed or Pierre misremembered it (also $14 for what should be stale tortillas, an egg and some salsa?? I'm suspicious that they list the main ingredient as tortilla chips, though I do remember loving their actual tortillas):

Chilaquiles verdes o rojos 14
house made corn tortilla chips served with Verde tomatillo-jalapeño chile sauce or Roja tomato-chipotle sauce,
shredded chicken, chopped onions, sour cream, fresh cheese and topped with two eggs “over-easy”

Here's the rest of the menu for what appears to be weekend only brunch:

http://www.ondemandwebsite.com/myadmi...