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Restaurants for dinner in Lyon? Please critique my list.

carolynkovar Mar 15, 2010 04:22 PM

My husband and I will be in Lyon for four nights in early May (Tuesday the 4th through Friday the 7th). I've been developing a list of restaurants. So far, my leading contenders are Les Terrasses de Lyon, L'Auberge de l'Ile, Le Gourmet de Sèze, and Eskis. My alternate, in case of trouble, is La Voûte-Chez Léa. What do you think of the choices? I haven't found comments on the website for any of these except La Voûte (which were very good--should I move that up to the "definite" list?) I thought of Nicolas Le Bec--should I move that to the list and dump one of the other starred restaurants? I picked Terrasses and L'Auberge mainly for location--are there better choices?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated!


  1. ChefJune Mar 16, 2010 07:19 AM

    I have been to Lyon maybe 12 times in the past 18 years, and have never dined at any of the places you listed.

    I do love La Voute-Chez Lea. My favorite Lyon dining has always been at (now) Brasserie Leon de Lyon.

    Years ago I had a less than wonderful meal at La Mere Brazier. However, they have a new chef and have been receiving GREAT reviews. I will definitely be going back there this fall when I return to Lyon, and I would recommend it for its traditional menu (now with a modern flair) and its long tradition.

    20 Replies
    1. re: ChefJune
      carolynkovar Mar 16, 2010 05:02 PM

      ChefJune, thank you so much. I took a look at La Mere Brazier and I am SO not going to miss it!

      I should probably move up LaVoute-Chez Lea, and there may be laws against going to Lyon and not dining at Leon de Lyon.

      Of the original list, have you avoided them because you've heard bad things about any of them, or did they just not interest you? Terrasses de Lyon (which is at the Villa Florentine) is supposed to have a terrific view and has a star. L'Auberge de l'Ile has two stars and it sounds like you can get there--L'Ile Barbe--by boat, though I would need to check that. I thought the settings would enhance the experience, though I know that can be problematic--they could be tourist traps without very good food.

      Do you, or does anyone else, have any additional thoughts? I really value the experience on this board.


      1. re: carolynkovar
        ChefJune Mar 17, 2010 07:25 AM

        both things apply... The Villa Florentine is a lovely property, but it is waaay out of the way. and the locals I've spoken with seem to think the restaurant is overrated. Auberge de l'Ille is someplace I want to try, probably this fall.
        The others, I've not heard of.

        1. re: carolynkovar
          mdietrich Mar 17, 2010 09:41 PM

          I really enjoyed George Blanc's Le Splindide in Lyon...you are also close to legendary dining Roanne, Vonnas, Collonges, and Mionnay...

          1. re: mdietrich
            souphie Mar 18, 2010 02:08 AM

            Yep. I wouldn't rule out those classics, Bocuse included (a long time difference I have with many on these boards). L'Auberge de l'Ile is very very good on top of being lovely. I don't like to not go to Mionnay when I'm in Lyon (also don't like to spend one year without going to Bocuse -- stay away from his chicken and VGE soup, though). I also think that "En Mets Fais Ce qu'il Te Plait" is one of the most exciting restaurants in France right now.

            1. re: souphie
              mangeur Mar 18, 2010 11:44 AM

              "I also think that "En Mets Fais Ce qu'il Te Plait" is one of the most exciting restaurants in France right now."
              More comments on "En Mets...", Soup?

              1. re: mangeur
                souphie Mar 19, 2010 05:06 AM

                Ishida is a wonderful chef, in awe of French traditions, giving them life and passion, as well as Japanese rigor and ingredients. You should have seen him filletting a live eel last year at the Omnivore Food Festival, or this year cooking enormous scallops for everybody. That's his style: it starts with wonderful and wonderfully fresh ingredients, then uses passion and extreme technique and traditional French inspiration, to serve dishes that are sharp, intense and moving. And the whole thing at Bistrot fares in downtown Lyons, with organic local wines like Lapierre's. In a word, a place where everybody has a lot of fun: chef and patrons.

                1. re: souphie
                  ChefJune Mar 19, 2010 07:45 AM

                  Do they have a web site? Where are they located?

                  1. re: ChefJune
                    souphie Mar 19, 2010 11:40 AM

                    I'm not aware that they have a website.
                    43, rue Chevreuil
                    69007 Lyon
                    04 78 72 46 58
                    Open mon-sat

                    1. re: souphie
                      mangeur Mar 21, 2010 07:46 AM

                      FWIW, here is a sample menu for En Mets from Resto.fr:

                      1. re: mangeur
                        ChefJune Mar 21, 2010 08:03 AM

                        Reminds me a lot of Lacombe's menus before Léon de Lyon became a brasserie....

                  2. re: souphie
                    mangeur Mar 19, 2010 01:20 PM

                    Thanks. You've just reshaped a July visit. :)

              2. re: mdietrich
                ChefJune Mar 18, 2010 08:57 AM

                oops. How could I leave out Le Splendide? and if you have the chance, I would go to Vonnas to Georges Blanc. I have never been, but I hope to rectify that soon.

                1. re: ChefJune
                  carolynkovar Mar 19, 2010 01:08 PM

                  What exciting suggestions from everybody! En Mets... sounds really fascinating (well, maybe not the live eel). If you had to choose two of La Voute-Chez Lea, Leon de Lyon, Le Splendid, and En Mets, which would you choose? (I made a reservation at Auberge de l'Ile, and Mere Brazier sounds too good to miss).


                  1. re: carolynkovar
                    ChefJune Mar 19, 2010 09:22 PM

                    the first two, Carolyn! I don't think I could ever go to Lyon and miss either of them. everything else comes after.

                    1. re: ChefJune
                      mangeur Mar 20, 2010 07:45 AM


                    2. re: carolynkovar
                      souphie Mar 20, 2010 04:57 AM

                      The eel is dead when you eat it. I mean even before you eat it.

                      1. re: souphie
                        carolynkovar Mar 20, 2010 12:40 PM

                        Thank you so much, ChefJune and mangeur! I'm making reservations at La Voûte and Léon. Your input will make all the difference in our visit--I can't thank you enough.
                        Souphie, I was kidding about the eel, but what an image!


                        1. re: carolynkovar
                          ChefJune Mar 21, 2010 06:47 AM

                          Carolyn, fwiw, here's a picture of the Lyonnaise Salad at La Voûte. It's the best one I've ever had, and I LOVE that salad.

                          1. re: ChefJune
                            carolynkovar Mar 21, 2010 12:04 PM

                            Oh, wow. I have to remember that!

                            1. re: carolynkovar
                              ChefJune May 3, 2010 08:42 AM

                              Looking forward to your dining report!

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