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Fresh, Vibrant, Pure Shanghai Cuisine (and Home of the Succulent, Braised Pork Shank) - Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan) [Review] w/ Pics!

(Formatted with All Pictures here:
http://exilekiss.blogspot.com/2010/02...

In the culinary world, the freshness of the food is one of the most fundamental and taken for granted aspects in a restaurant. We've all run into that Rotisserie Chicken that's been sitting around for too long; the rack of Ribs that tastes like it was reheated; the Banh Mi Sandwich on stale bread; or the slices of Chashu Pork (in a bowl of Ramen) that tastes like it was made 2 days ago and served from the refrigerator. You'd think that it'd be obvious and a given for the chefs and owners of restaurants to only serve what's freshly made just for your order (or prepped that morning), but, sadly, it's not always the case.

In the realm of Shanghai restaurants in So Cal, with time-intensive, slow-braised items like Hohng Shao Rou (Braised Pork) and Ti Pahng (Pork Pump), finding establishments that serve these dishes freshly made that day are becoming rarer and rarer. So when you run across a Shanghai restaurant that makes its slow-braised meat dishes fresh that morning and throws out whatever doesn't get served to ensure freshness, it deserves to be applauded. That restaurant is Yu Garden (Chinese name "Shanghai Yu Yuan"), a new Shanghai restaurant opened across from Hawaii Supermarket on Valley.

Thanks to a craving one night for Shanghai dishes, I wrangled up one of my SGV Hounds and decided to try this new restaurant, remembering the tip from Chandavkl. Yu Garden is surprisingly small, with one row of HK Cafe-style pleather booths lining one wall, and Christmas lights hanging in the window, with the kitchen taking up half the floor space.

As we sit down and order, we hear jovial conversations of Shanghai dialect between the staff and several tables (in fact, in all 4 of my visits, my SGV Hounds note that there are multiple Shanghainese families and couples that are dining here, heartily conversing with the waiters and kitchen staff in their unique dialect).

(Note: Thanks to my SGV Hounds for the pronunciation help. All Chinese dish spellings are geared toward pronunciation.)

As part of their new opening celebration, Yu Garden is offering a free appetizer to every table: Gahn Shao Hsia Ren (Shrimp with Chili Sauce).

These Shrimp are non-butterflied (which might be off-putting for some) and wok-fried in a Sweet Soy Sauce. The shell is fried to the point where it's so brittle that it's edible along with the Shrimp itself. It's a decent dish, but nothing stellar.

But then imagine a transformation of a typically boring vegetable - Hsi Gua (Chinese Squash) - into something so absurdly delicious that the only thing you can do is just stop and bask in its glory. (^_^) That dish is their: Hsien Dahn Huang Hsi Gua (Chinese Squash with Salted Duck Egg Yolks).

Chinese Squash can be bitter at times, and it's usually pretty mellow and conservative. But in the hands of Chef Hu Bin (a professionally trained Chef who's been cooking for over 20 years in Shanghai before moving to L.A.), it's pure genius: The pairing of the silky, simple Chinese Squash with the earthy, sulfuric intensity of Salted Duck Eggs makes for the best Chinese Vegetable dish I've had in the past few years. Excellent! :)

And then, as if things couldn't get any better, their Tuh Suh Hsiao Yuan Ti (House Special Braised Pork Shank (their version of "Pork Pump")) arrives in all its quivering, luscious glory.

I've been really disappointed with the state of Pork Pumps in So Cal recently. Perhaps it's just bad luck / timing, but the last few times I've had Pork Pumps around town, it's always tasted dull and muted; they taste like they were reheated from the day before (or longer). So imagine my delight when I bite into this ultra-tender, moist, succulent chunk of their Slow-Braised Pork Shank, and it's *so* fresh and vibrant and delicious! :)

Chef Hu only makes a few of these Pork Shanks for that day and doesn't serve any leftovers the next day; once they're out, they're out. It has a pure, slow-cooked aspect to the Pork that's so soft and tender and unctuous that it's my current favorite version of this dish right now. For comparison purposes, I used to love Lake Spring's Pork Pump years ago, but their quality has been slipping for a while. I like Mei Long Village's version for its depth of flavor (over this one), and the now defunct Green Village used to make a good version when they were on. But they've all had off nights where you could taste the reheated facet once in a while. For now, I'll take the freshness and simplicity of Yu Garden's version over the inconsistent, deeper flavors elsewhere.

The next dish to arrive is their Gahn Guo Ji (Griddle Cooked Chicken Pot).

A searing hot, large metal pot gets put before us and there's a nice pungent aroma pouring out. Bits of just-cooked-through Daikon Radish, Cucumber, Celery and Chilies give a nice, crunchy textural contrast to the spicy-salty-sour fresh Chicken chunks. Like the Pork Shank, the Chicken tastes really fresh (not reheated). And while I appreciate the freshness, this is one example where the recipe needs a bit more tinkering: It has a nice tart-spicy edge and goes well with Steamed Rice, but it's not something I'd find myself ordering again.

Overall, the first visit was quite satisfying, and I couldn't wait to return to try more dishes. During my 2nd visit, one of my Westside Hounds brings along a friend from Shanghai (a big food lover), so I'm curious to hear what they think of this restaurant. :)

They want to start with a simple, tried-and-true dish: Hsiang Gahn Rou Hsi (Shredded Pork with Dry Bean Curd).

It's a decent version of the dish, but nothing to write home about. Chef Hu uses fattier strips of Pork than what I'm used to, but the Dried Bean Curd is fine.

Their Zao Liu Yu Pian (badly translated as "Fish Slices Fries with Wine" :) quickly makes up for it.

While it's not live fish, the Boneless Fish Slices taste fresher and thankfully not like dirt/mud that seem to plague many local restaurants with their Fish Slice dishes. But it's the Zao Ru - sort of like a fermented byproduct from Rice Wine making (as our server explains) - that really gives this dish its standout characteristic: It's enchantingly fragrant and has an alluring sweetness, and is wonderful with the Bamboo Shoots and Wood Ear Mushrooms.

Unfortunately, their Xiao Lohng Bao (XLB) ("Steamed Pork Buns") fall short.

Their Xiao Lohng Bao's have too thick a skin, leading to an imbalance of too much dough that overpowers the Pork and Broth filling. It's not horrible, but it's not going to topple the foodie favorites from the SGV.

Their Hohng Shao Rou Bai Yeh Jie (Braised Pork with Bean Curd) arrives next.

I've actually stopped ordering Hohng Shao Rou recently because too many places serve this reheated; it has the funk of being made 1-2 days earlier and reheated to order. But my guests wanted to try Chef Hu's version and I'm so glad we ordered it. :)

While it's a little firmer than I prefer, the chunks of Braised Pork taste so *fresh* and focused, reflective of their cooking philosophy. There's a pure, Light Soy Sauce flavor coming through, and the mix of fatty bits with lean meat in the Pork chunks are delicious with Steamed Rice. :) The Bean Curd Ties are a great textural complement to the dish, and help alleviate the strain of the dish turning too heavy. Delicious. :)

Their Hohng Shao Doh Fu ("Tofu Pot") is a fine example of simple, clean, focused cooking techniques.

Ostensibly, a simple, homely dish, but that's the beauty of their Hohng Shao Do Fu. Silky slabs of Tofu, Bamboo Shoots, Snow Peas and Mushrooms cooked in a Soy Sauce-based Brown Sauce. There's a purity and simplicity to it that's subtle and appreciated.

One of their most unexpected surprises is their Chuen Juen (Shanghai Style Egg Rolls).

Growing up in So Cal, Egg Rolls have always seemed to be a snack made for tourists, served with some horrific, artificial, glowing Sweet Red Sauce of some sort. :) I never order Egg Rolls at Chinese restaurants, but my guest from Shanghai was craving a bit of the homeland so we obliged.

As I'm about to take a bite, I look up and notice a beaming smile coming from both my Westside Hound and the Shanghai guest. I quickly take a bite and realize why: A super-light, flaky, *thin* crispy, crackling skin gives way to this liquid, piping-hot center of pure Da Baicai (Napa Cabbage) essence! Wow.

I've never had an Egg Roll like this before, and my Shanghai guest explains that this is "a real Shanghai Egg Roll," not the Westernized version that's more commonly found. They seem pleasantly surprised and says that it's pretty close to home. I'm just happy to have found my new favorite Egg Roll in L.A. :)

Their Tsohng Yoh Bing (Green Onion Pancake) doesn't fare as well.

Yu Garden's version is a bit on the greasy side, and too thick. It's a decent version, but there are better ones around town.

On another visit, we begin with their Suan La Tahng (Hot and Sour Soup). It's an adequate version of the classic soup, with sufficient tartness and decent peppery heat, but nothing to get too excited about.

On our server's recommendation, we decide to try the Bah Bao La Jiang (Eight Treasures in Hot Sauce).

While I've had Bah Bao Fahn (Eight Treasures Rice) dessert more times than I can remember, this is the first time I've tried this savory Eight Treasures in Hot Sauce. Per its name, this dish usually contains 8 components to complete the dish. Yu Garden's version contains: Dry Bean Curd, Shrimp, Bell Peppers, Mushrooms, Chicken, Bamboo Shoots, and Cucumbers. The missing eighth ingredient is Chicken Gizzard, but our server mentions that since it's not that popular in the U.S., they've withheld it from the dish.

While it sounds pretty interesting, the end result is a bit underwhelming: It's very sweet (heavy use of Tianmian Jiang (Sweet Bean Sauce)), slightly spicy and the Shrimp tastes a bit too briny (the only dish I've run across that wasn't as optimally fresh as possible).

The second of the recommended dishes from our server is their Tahng Tsu Hsiao Pai (Sweet and Sour Spareribs (lit. "Sugar and Vinegar Riblets")).

I never thought I'd see the day when any of my SGV Hounds would be ordering "Sweet & Sour" anything, but our server assures us that this version is an authentic Shanghai dish, similar to the more popularly named "Shanghai Hsiao Pai Gu" ("Shanghai Riblets").

True to its name, fresh Pork Spareribs are deep fried and then sauteed in a wok with Black Rice Vinegar and Sugar. It's sweet and tart, and better than the mainstream versions of "Sweet & Sour," but the Pork Ribs while very fresh, are a bit too firm at times.

Unlike their XLB, their Ji Tsai Hwun Twun ("Green Leaf Wonton") are excellent little pockets of goodness. :)

The little Wontons are very different from the more popular Cantonese / Hong Kong version, with a simple filling of Marinated Ground Pork and Shepherd's Purse greens. The delicate herbaceous Shepherd's Purse and pure Pork flavors come shining through, especially given the backdrop of their Gao Tahng, a light Pork Bone Broth adorned with Green Onions and bits of Egg.

(Note: Chef Hu doesn't add MSG to any of his dishes. The only MSG to be found would be the small amount that occurs in the Soy Sauce itself.)

Another standout dish would be their Tai Tiao Hsiao Huang Yu (Yellow Croaker with Seaweed).

It's nice that they use deboned Yellow Croaker fish instead of larger blocks of Grey Sole or Rock Cod that's used at some other places. The Hsiao Huang Yu tastes bright, oceany (in a good way), with a slight crunch in the batter, which is infused with a briny Seaweed that Chef Hu imports direct from Shanghai (he wasn't happy with the quality of the Tai Tiao found through local suppliers). This all adds up to one of the better versions of this dish I've tried recently.

I couldn't wait to let my guest try out (and for me to repeat) the mouth-watering, porcine experience that is their Tuh Suh Hsiao Yuan Ti (House Special Braised Pork Shank), so I happily order it again. :)

And from the first touch of the fork against the Braised Pork Shank (that causes it to easily yield and reveals a silky, super moist mass of long-stewed Pork heaven :), I'm happy to report that even on my 3rd visit, the Braised Pork Shank is as fresh-tasting and pure as my 1st visit. If they can maintain the freshness (so far, so good) and develop the flavors a bit more, this could become the definitive Pork Pump-style dish in So Cal. :)

On my 4th visit, we begin with their wrongly translated Nan Gua Hsien Bei Gun ("Pumpkin with Fresh Snail" (Note: It's not "Snail" but actually "Scallop" :)).

I'm usually not a big Pumpkin fan but this has to be hands-down, the best savory Pumpkin dish I've ever had anywhere. :) It sounds weird on paper, but it's a pure, magical distillation of Pumpkin essence that's so fresh, focused and simply lovely. The shredded Scallop adds a nice sea breeze counterpoint to the Pumpkin Soup. Delicious.

One of the daily specials this evening is their Hohng Shao Hsiao Huang Yu Do Fu (Braised Yellow Croaker with Tofu).

These are whole, little Yellow Croakers, slowly braised in a Light Soy Sauce. The Yellow Croaker tastes clean and vivid, and the Braised Tofu is a nice accompaniment. If there's one drawback it's the amount of bones in the Yellow Croaker, so those that don't like to fuss with fish bones should avoid this dish. Overall, I prefer their (deboned) Yellow Croaker in Seaweed preparation more than this version.

The last savory dish of the night is Pahng Hsieh Tsao Nian Gao (Crab with Rice Cake).

The Nian Gao (Rice Cake) slices are soft and supple, but what really makes this dish sing is the live Crab's inherent sweetness and bright brininess. It's perfectly cooked, and completely satisfying sucking out the fresh Crab meat while eating the Nian Gao. The intense and beautifully oceanic Crab Eggs and Guts are a great finisher.

If there's one dessert to get at Yu Garden, it would have to be their Gwei Hua Jio Niang Hsiao Tahng Yuan (Rice Ball with Rice Wine Sauce).

Chef Hu makes his own Jio Niang, the Rice Wine essence that's at the heart of this dessert, and the difference is remarkable (compared to other places around town). This dish first engages your sense of smell with some really fragrant Gwei Hua (Sweet Olive Flowers). I've had this dessert numerous times in the past 3 years, but this is the first time I've had it with Sweet Olive Flowers this aromatic.

It's only lightly sweet, allowing the Jio Niang flavors to shine and letting the Sesame Rice Balls to provide the rest of the sweetness to round things out.

Service is about as expected for this little San Gabriel Valley eatery: There are no busboys, so 2 waiters cover the needs of the entire restaurant, from clearing dishes to refilling tea and drinks and more. Yu Garden has a Lunch Menu from $4.55 - $6.55. Their Dinner Menu ranges from $2 - $29.95 (for the Eight Treasures Duck), with most dishes averaging ~$8. We averaged about ~$18 per person (including tax and tip). It should be noted their wonderful Braised Pork Shank ("mini Pork Pump") is only $8.95.

While simplistic at times, Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan)'s focus on freshness and its clarity of Shanghai dishes deserves to be commended. From their fresh Hohng Shao Rou (Braised Pork), to the delicious Shanghai Style Egg Rolls, to their earthy, vibrant Pumpkin Soup with "Snail" (Scallop) and the succulent, juicy House Special Braised Pork Shank, Yu Garden is a good place to stop in for some Shanghai cuisine. With some more development of its recipes, it has the potential to become a permanent mainstay of the San Gabriel Valley.

*** Rating: 8.0 (out of 10.0) ***

Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan)
107 E. Valley Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Tel: (626) 569-0855

Hours: [Lunch] Thurs - Tues, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Thurs - Tues, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Closed Wednesdays.

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Yu Garden (Shanghai Yu Yuan
)107 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, CA 91776

 
 
 
 
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    2 Replies
    1. re: exilekiss

      This is a particularly stunning report, with very impressive photographs and description with just the right amount of detail. I am especially taken with the way you give entirely frank opinions on what is really good and what really isn't. Another great review, EK.
      By the way, are you a fan of the Japanese group Exile?

      1. re: Tripeler

        Hi Tripeler,

        Thanks. :) The next time you're in the area, give them a shot and please report back and let us know how it turns out. (And no, I haven't heard anything from Exile. What are they similar to?)

    2. One step ahead of me again! I was about to try it in April!

      1 Reply
      1. re: J.L.

        Hi J.L.,

        I'm looking forward to your report on this place. Don't miss out on the Braised Pork Shank and Chinese Squash with Duck Eggs at least. :)

      2. ya the chuen juen sounds like the real deal. I'm fortunate I get this everytime i go to mom's. It's great when bamboo is in season. I'm assuming it's got slivers of tender bamboo also.

        1 Reply
        1. re: cartbaby

          Hi cartbaby,

          Thinking back on it, I'm not sure if the Shanghai Style Egg Rolls had Bamboo. If they were there, they were in very thin, tender slices. The pure flavors of the Da Baicai (Napa Cabbage) was really the star of those Egg Rolls. Really nice. :)

        2. I had the opportunity to try this place out a few weeks back with the parents and we all enjoyed it. All the dishes we had were quite good. Even my mother, who is quite picky about serving sizes, taste and cost issues, was satisfied. If you like intestine, there is a version of the Griddle Pot with it where it's deep fried but not overly cooked. The name of another dish escapes me at the moment but it contained a black fungus that is apparently popular in China right now but is a rarity in the states. I'll see if I can find a menu and get back to you on it. I really hope this restaurant survives.

          4 Replies
          1. re: taiwanesesmalleats

            Hi taiwanesemalleats,

            Thanks for the report back. Is the dish you're talking about the Gahn Guo Dah Chahng (Griddle Cooked Intestine Pot)?

            And yes, please let us know the name of the other dish you had with the Black Fungus. I can't wait to try that. Thanks. :)

            1. re: exilekiss

              I believe so, yes. My parents did the ordering (and paying!) so I pretty much just ate what was put in front of me.

              1. re: exilekiss

                Just had food from Yu Garden on Saturday again. Parents ordered it to-go and when my dad arrived to pick up the order, he said it was packed with plenty of people waiting outside. Mostly lao wai. The dish with the black fungus is simply called "Mushroom with BBQ Pork" on the menu under the meat section but is not a good description. The BBQ pork is actually (my guess) braised pork belly stir fried with crisp bell peppers and the slightly chewy black fungus. The flavor was just like the first time I had it.

                1. re: taiwanesesmalleats

                  Hi taiwanesesmalleats,

                  Thank you for the name of the dish and recommendation. I'll be sure to try that next time I'm there; sounds delicious. :)

            2. Hi All,

              Quick FYI: Yu Garden is installing their Credit Card Machine this week. They hope to have it ready by the weekend, but don't have a definite date, so if you plan on going this week, bring Cash as backup. (Then again, at their prices, it's not too bad. :) Thanks.

              1 Reply