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Feb 26, 2010 03:38 PM

Great Sichuan food in Rocklin at the Golden Dragon.

A few Sacramento hounds have posted on the food at the Golden Dragon. But despite their recommendations I hadn't managed to make it up there until today. Suffice it to say I regret having waited so long.

The restaurant is incredibly easy to get to; it's within a few hundred yards of the Rocklin Road exit from Interstate 80. It's tucked into an unprepossessing strip mall on Granite Drive. This is the burbs, so there's more than enough parking.

Anyway, I met fellow chowhound c oliver and her husband there for lunch today, and was pretty blown away by the quality of the food. We were served by the owner, a middle-aged woman who speaks limited but reasonably good English. She's very friendly, and was excited that we were interested in food from the "special" menu.

We got the "chilli oil thin-sliced pig's ear" as an appetizer. Served cold, with sliced scallions. Crunchy chewy goodness. We also ordered the "spice dumplings Sichuan style." Silky wrappers around a course-ground pork filling with a generous topping of chili oil, dusted with crushed red peppers and Sichuan peppercorn.

Main dishes were the "dry cooked pork intestine" and the "Szechuan Style Tea Smoke Duck." The chitterlings were sliced on the bias into rounds about 1/3" thick and cooked until most of the fat had rendered out, then crisped up with some dried red peppers, scallions, and celery matchsticks. Slightly chewy, slightly fatty, fairly spicy, and altogether wonderful. For me, though, the tea-smoked duck was the star of the show. Beautiful dark crispy skin, moist meat, and fairly assertive - but not overwhelming - smokiness. Served on lettuce with some hoisin sauce for dipping. Spectacular.

The owner came over and chatted with us several times during the meal, and was visibly pleased at how much we were enjoying our food. She's not hesitant to make recommendations and share her personal preferences. (She has the spicy dumplings every morning for breakfast when she gets to the restaurant. I think I want to change jobs with her.)

When we had finished off our food, she asked us to wait a few minutes for the cook to finish a dessert she'd ordered for us - dollops of red bean paste wrapped in the most flaky, delicate pastry crust you've ever tasted. She says it's good for the stomach after eating spicy food. I don't know about the stomach, but the taste buds were very happy.

Price-wise, apps range from $3 to $7, noodles from $7 to $9, and entrees from $8 to $13 (with a couple of untranslated outliers and seasonal pricing for fresh fish). We stuffed ourselves for $20pp including tax, tip, and a bottle of Tsingtao beer each.

So if you're like me, you're asking yourself "sure, it's good, but who wants to drive to Rocklin?" You do. Seriously. This is a place that deserves to be a chow destination. If you live east of Vacaville or west of Reno on the I-80 corridor, hop in the car. It's worth the drive.

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  1. I can add little to Alan's report. The dumplings (I got more than MY share) were terrific. Skins were beautifully thin but stayed intact. I could eat a bowl of those all by myself. And, yes, the duck was the star; still thinking about it. I'd never had pig ear or intestine/chitterlings before but liked them both. The pig ear was sliced paper thin and you weren't particularly aware of the cartilage. The intestine couldn't have been anything else but it had no gross-out factor at all :)

    We drove two hours to get there because we had to pick up our car which had a major repair. But we'll go back just for that restaurant. I want to work my way through that entire menu. I bet there's not a loser there. Thanks for a great suggestion, Alan. You've always been one of my "major gods" but this rec puts you even higher.

    1. That has to be the quintessential chowhound experience! Great food, out of the way and unexpected place, wonderful interaction with the owner, new dishes, and a special just for you for dessert ... wish I had been there.

      2 Replies
      1. re: Sam Fujisaka

        Next time, my friend. Sharing it with another Chowhound really made it for us. Much moaning over the food :)

        1. re: Sam Fujisaka

          Next time, Sam. Get your bad self up here and we'll fete you until your stomach and liver give out.

          The really cool thing is that I'd never have suggested the place if it wasn't for PeterL's recommendation. Props to him.

          This really epitomizes what's great about chowhound. There are hundreds of strip-mall Chinese places in the Sacramento metro area. Only a few are really good, and finding those gems among all the dreck is a daunting task. With many hounds looking, the good spots get "found" quicker, the word spreads, and both the diners and the restaurants' owners are better for it.

        2. We love love love the tea smoked duck. One of my relative who has lived in Sichuan and Beijing proclaims this is the best Sichuan restaurant he's been to. The owner husband is also the chef.

          1 Reply
          1. re: PeterL

            I got the last dumpling and Alan got the last piece of duck with the crunchy skin. Oh boy.

          2. Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant
            4800 Granite Drive
            Rocklin, CA 95677
            (916) 632-9542‎

            1 Reply
            1. re: PolarBear

              Here's the link.

              Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant
              4800 Granite Dr. #B2, Rocklin, CA 95677

            2. there are always folks asking for good recommendations on the trip from the bay area to Tahoe, and this seems like the perfect answer! Dumplings before heading to the snow: what could be better...For that matter, it is right on the way from Merced to the North Shore, so I've marked it on my favorites and hope to try it soon. Thanks for the report!

              7 Replies
              1. re: susancinsf

                We live at Tahoe and usually do drive-thru McD's in Colfax when heading to SF. Now we'll go a little farther and have some dumplings. All the food came out on a timely (and well timed) basis but the dumpling were quite quick. I woke up this morning thinking about that meal. If I lived where Alan does, I'd have been right back there this morning.

                1. re: c oliver

                  I can see it now - face pressed to the glass, pleading to be let in and fed dumplings despite the fact that the place doesn't open for another hour...

                  1. re: alanbarnes

                    And I betcha she'd let me in. I want to learn to make those dumplings also. And now I want to buy a smoker and try the duck also. Mmm.

                    1. re: c oliver

                      You don't need a smoker, just a wok with a cover. The spicy dumplings are made with commercial wonton wrappers, so you should be able to replicate both dishes at home.

                      1. re: Melanie Wong

                        I was rereading this thread prior to sending it to someone. I didn't realize that you're familiar with the restaurant. Those wrappers were excellent. I need to stop in and find out how they get that result from commercial wrappers.

                        1. re: c oliver

                          I'm not familiar w the resto. The wrappers were described as thin & silky, so that would be a machinemade, commercial wrapper. There are many different kinds & brands for diff purposes.

                          1. re: Melanie Wong

                            Thanks for the valuable education. I didn't realize that only machines could make wrappers like that. I won't try so hard in the future knowing that I can just buy them. Sam had suggested I get a tortilla press to get them thinner. I'll just use it for tortillas.