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Feb 25, 2010 07:23 AM

"Orange" wines

There are some white wines made by the technique of leaving freshly crushed juice in contact with the grape skins for a prolonged period. I've seen this type of wine called "Orange", although I know that the wine can be any sort of color in shades ranging from pink, to ruddy cider to a vivid orange.

I’ve had several vintages of Massavecchia Ariento as well as Radikon Oslavje and Ribolla Gialla. Gravner seems to be a popular choice, though I've yet to have one that I liked. My new favorite is La Stoppa Ageno, when I can find it.

What other “orange” wines are you enjoying?

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  1. The only one I've tried rocked my world: Movia "Lunar" (I had the 2007 vintage). It is a bizarre wine, made with as little intervention as possible (grapes weren't destemmed or crushed), and comes across as slightly oxidized, but in a complex and fascinating way.

    2 Replies
    1. re: nwinkler

      The Massavecchia as well as the Radikon wines have that oxidized quality too. Or they give one the perception of oxidation while still having a freshness to them? I recently had a bottle of 1996 Ariento that seemed youthful.

      1. re: nwinkler

        I would not call the Lunar slightly oxidized. It's entirely oxidized! The entire Movia line is very cool.

      2. La Stoppa, deftly run by Elena Pantaleoni and cellar master Giulio Armani.
        I still have a few bottles left of their amazing Colli Piacentini Malvasia Passito Vigna del Volta 2004.
        Just wondering: why both Gambero Rosso 2010 & Duemilavini 2010 omit any mention of the Ageno? Because it wasn't submitted? Or they just don't have an icon for "orange" ?

        1. Had the 2005 Zidarich Vitovska about a year ago. Although I enjoyed it, I'm not sure I'd pay the ~$50 price tag for it. These wines have their place. But I've yet to fully appreciate where that is.

          1 Reply
          1. re: Brad Ballinger

            Me too. I don't get why Zidarich Vitovska is a wine that geeks fawn over. I agree with you, I don't think it's that good for the money.

          2. I love the blend Damijan makes. Also Paolo Bea Arboreas, but this is $$$. Great value = Coenobbium.

            3 Replies
            1. re: whiner

              Have you tried the Rusticum? I think harder to find. A more powerful version.

              1. re: whiner

                I have both of the Bea whites, but have not tried yet. Any suggestions of what to pair with? Thanks! Love the Sagrantino!!

              2. Have drank the following in the past 3 months...

                Movia Ribolla (not really orange)
                Joly Coulée de Serrant
                Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
                Lopez de Heredia Rosé

                Lots of fun stuff.

                3 Replies
                1. re: mengathon

                  Surely Coulée de Serrant is that colour because of the botrytis which affects most of his vineyard?

                  1. re: Steve_K

                    While botrytis does affect most of his vineyard, depending on the vintage, sometimes only 10-20% of the final wine is botrytised fruit. I have tried the 04, as well as the 95, which actually had a label of "moelleux," something I had never seen before on any kind of Savennières. I think you're right, botrytis does affect the color, as Bergerie and Clos Sacrés are not so dark, but the intentional oxidation is definitely a big part as well.

                    Compare a young Coteaux du Layon or a Quarts de Chaume of the same vintage, without the oxidation, but with the botrytised fruit, and the color is dramatically different.

                  2. re: mengathon

                    Not sure I'd put Joly in the "orange" wine category.