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Melanie Wong Feb 17, 2010 06:34 PM

French-style Beignets @ Bistro 29 in Santa Rosa

Recently I asked a friend in the biz, “Have you noticed that there's a lot more fried stuff on menus these days? Also an explosion of beignets, churros, and other fritters as desserts.” She agreed that deep-frying has been on the rise. So, we can add to that list of things that we used to whine about trying to find. The demand for beignets and churros like our porchetta cravings is being met quite amply these days.

Bistro 29 in Downtown Santa Rosa serves up lovely French-style beignets. Fried to order and made with pate choux, these golden orbs were richly eggy in flavor yet delicately constructed at the same time. This summer they were served with huckleberry compote. A generous portion for only $6, more than enough for the three of us to share at our chowdown.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

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Bistro 29
620 5th Street, Santa Rosa, CA

  1. s
    SteveG Feb 18, 2010 09:56 AM

    Yum. Larger ones either plain, or filled with plain, chocolate, or vanilla custard are available at Arlequin to Go for $2. They're very fresh and delicious in the morning, and had a texture that suggested pate choux.

    8 Replies
    1. re: SteveG
      Melanie Wong Feb 18, 2010 10:04 AM

      Thanks for the reminder, i'd forgotten about those. Should get over there some morning.

      Here are the zeppole at Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn, 3/$1.50.
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniew...

      I was compelled to post because I was so disappointed by the beignets at Nombe.

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      Arlequin Cafe & Food To Go
      384 Hayes St, San Francisco, CA 94102

      Tootsie's at the Stanford Barn
      700 Welch Rd Ste 118, Palo Alto, CA

      Nombe
      2491 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

      1. re: Melanie Wong
        o
        OldTimer Feb 18, 2010 10:12 AM

        I think what confuses most people (even cooks) about beignets is the New Orleans type...in reality is hole-less square doughnut. A true beignet as you pointed out, is really deep fried choux paste. Surprized they are not more popular in upscale restaurants.

        1. re: OldTimer
          Melanie Wong Feb 18, 2010 10:19 AM

          I like both styles although I have witnessed folks from France go ballistic when served NO type.

          What disappointed about the Nombe beignets were 1) not served warm, 2) heavy and verging on tough in texture, 3) not any better than the donut holes I can buy at Bob's for considerably less, 4) creme fraiche and yuzu jam taste bad together. Too many faults for the price charged.

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          Nombe
          2491 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110

          1. re: Melanie Wong
            s
            SteveG Feb 18, 2010 10:30 AM

            I had the "tasting" menu pairing for SF Beer week at Nombe, and it was fine, but the cold beignets came out at the beginning of the meal along with all the other food. At least in my case, they had a savory chocolate sauce underneath that made them entirely edible.

          2. re: OldTimer
            c
            chocolatetartguy Feb 18, 2010 10:31 AM

            Cafe du Monde beignet are not just hole-less square doughnuts. I don't think I have every had a French beignet. I have had beignet in NO and zeppole at the Festa de San Gennaro and while perhaps not refined, they are definitely delicious.

            How do French beignet differ from our homegrown fried dough treats?

            1. re: chocolatetartguy
              Melanie Wong Feb 20, 2010 05:06 PM

              French-style beignets are made with pate a choux. The egg in the pastry dough acts as a leavening agent and adds a great deal of flavor and moisture. Zeppole are also made with pate a choux.

              NO-style beignets and doughnuts are made with yeast or baking powder leavened doughs.

              1. re: Melanie Wong
                c
                chocolatetartguy Feb 22, 2010 11:54 AM

                Would Cafe Fanny's be a la Francaise?

                1. re: chocolatetartguy
                  Melanie Wong Feb 23, 2010 10:39 AM

                  It's been at least 5 years since I've had a beignet at Cafe Fanny, so the details are dim. But my recollection is that they're the square-ish, chewy type, more like Cafe du Monde than from Belle France.

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