Good eats in Chania — Western Crete?
I'll be spending a week in western Crete in mid-April, centered in Chania but also spending some time on the south coast (Paleochora, Sougia, etc.). Looking for non-touristy, honest, country-style Cretan fare & seafood. Location is no issue — will travel to remote villages for the good stuff. Thank you in advance for your recs.
In Chania (the city-not the province), I enjoyed the Karnagio (or Karnayio) taverna located at 8 Katehaki Square. I was disappointed by the dinners at restaurants recommended to us by hotel staff, which ended up being tourist traps serving subpar food. Chania seemed to have an awful lot of tourist traps in the old town/port area.
Definitely check out the main market downtown- lots of interesting Cretan foodstuffs ;-)
Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to dine in any villages, apart from in Agia Roumeli (if that counts), where the trail from the Samarian Gorge reaches the sea. The village salad, tzatzki, 2 lemonades, 3 cokes at the Kri Kri Taverna in Agia Roumeli came to something like 30 Euros- possibly the biggest tourist trap rip-off in Greece!
Leventis in Ano Stalos (between Daratso and Platanias). No tourists, very well-prepared food, reasonable price tag.
You will need to order seafood ahead of time; except octopus, you won't be able to get any fresh fish unless you call the restaurant.