Good Restaurants in Canareggio District Venice?
I will be traveling with my husband to Venice 3/12-3/18 for our 10th Wedding Anniverary.
We are staying in the Canareggio area. I would love any recommendations for restaurants close to our hotel. Thanks!
Cannaregio, one of the six sestiere that comprise Venice proper. It would be the one that a visitor step right out of Santa Lucia without crossing the canal and reaches all the way to the sestiere of San Marco. It is the most lively without being overly touristy. It also has the highest concentration of good moderate places as well as some of the best inexpensive osteria in Venice. A few of my favorites:
Moderate to expensive:
Vini da Gigio: small and cozy, seafood as well as meat and poultry, great wine list.
Boccadoro: more modern in terms of decor and food. Run by a couple of ex Al Covo people.
Anice Stellato: fun and lively with a color series of small rooms. Good traditional food with some inventive touches.
Alla Fresca: good seafood at very moderate prices but there are just a few options and no written menu; also simple china and paper napkins. But worth it as everyone is having a fun time.
Fiaschetteria Toscana: one of the best traditional Venetian restaurant in the easter part of Cannareggio, near the Rialto.
Inexpensive, better for lunch when the locals are there for the specials, Some are quite simple:
Al Bomba, Ai Promessi Sposi, Alla Vadova (Ca d'Oro)
Casa Mia: very good pizza
Wine bars and cichetti: alla Botte, La Cantina, Da Alberto
Don't limit yourself to Canareggio. Venice seems large but it is actually a very manageable walking city once you know the short cuts. The vaporetto (though horrifically expensive for single rides) and traghetti makes it easy.
Fiascheterria Toscana is near the south/eastern end of Canareggio, a large sestiere, therefore, depending where your hotel is, it might be a walk. But walking is what Venice is all about.
Venice is a 'dressy' city, especially in the evenings. Venice is romance and illusion, therefore, dressing up is never out of place. How to dress depends on what one is comfortable wearing and where one eat. Dressing up doesn't have be coat and tie. At top restaurants, expect most men to have at least a sports jacket or stylishly dressed as only Europeans and New Yorkers( or ex) can. If I am dining at da Fiore, Da Ivo, Harry's Bar, the Cip or any of the to palazzo hotel restaurants (these are not recommendations), I would definitely want to dress up because the occasion calls for it. Maybe even for Fiascheterria Toscano but for Alle Testiere (crowded and informal), I wear nice dark blue jeans, my best pair of shoes and depends on the weather, a stylish pull. Of course, certain people can dress however, and still come off as very chic and stylish and never seem out of place. Since this is your anniversary, wear your most stylish clothes for the evenings to celebrate and you will never feel out of place.
A comment about the weather. For many years, we've spent some parts of March in Venice and it is usually cool to COLD (freezing in 2008), therefore, pack according.
Thank you again for the thoughtful, comprehensive advice!
We, of course plan to be very stylish!!!! :) Ex NY-ers that we are!!
We love the excuse to dress up, and wish the world hadn't become so casual...In Ohio it seems there is a "t-shirt for every occasion". Yuck!
My only problem is shoes...I am petite and love heels, but in a walking city, this isn't always practical...stylish flats it is!
So would you even have a drink at Harry's...just to see it, if this was your first time in Venice...or not even bother..?.
And "No" to Da Ivo and da Fiore too eh?
Any suggestions on these , our top choices at Lunch VS. Dinner?
We'd like to do some fancy lunches with a casual dinner and some fancy dinners with a lighter lunch...
Friday: Vini d Gigio
Sunday: Il Refolo
Monday: Il Ridoto
Tues: Fiascheterria Toscana
Wed: Alle Testiere
Bancogiro, Ai Promessi Sposi, Casa Mia, Anice Stallato, Da Albertp and Alla Vedova
I am not a fashionista but flats are definitely the way to go in Venice.
Drink at Harry's? 18E for a Bellini? It is good but worth it depends on one's budget, the occasion and how one view the history and the sense of the place. The ambience is low ceiling clubbiness, always crowded in the evenings even in March. The clients are almost all foreigners and a few Italian visitors. The only time I had to pay for a drink there was my first time in Venice more than 30 years ago. After that, I only go when someone else is paying. That also goes for the famous Caffe Florian where a simple espresso starts at 6E and more outside if the orchestra is playing.
As for Da Fiore and Da Ivo, in my opinion, they are two of the best restaurant in Venice though I have not been to Da Fiore in many years. Da Fiore is seafood only, inventive without being over the top. Da Ivo has a Tuscan bent with many good meat dishes, even a Bistecca alla Fiorentina for two at a whopping 85E. We had a great meal there couple years ago but we were guests therefore didn't have to pay for jaw dropping prices. Couldn't believe how much prices sky rocketed from our previous visit in 2004. For both, the ingredients are top notch and the preparation flawless. The atmosphere is intimate with wonderful lighting; enough rooms between tables and comfortable chairs. Da Fiore feels more modern, sort of art deco with wood paneling. Da Ivo is cozy, warmer and more intimate. The service is always proper and correct though one can feel a little left out if not known (not always). It is difficult to recommend these restaurants because the high prices and how that equates with the nature of great traditional Venetian cooking: the freshest seafood and the best ingredients cooked simply. Is a beautifully prepared langoustine carpaccio at Da Fiore worth 45E? Another factor for us that we have an apartment in Venice, therefore we can cook moleche, gray shrimp, canocie, etc, without having to pay the high price of a restaurant. And when want to splurge on restaurants we want something more creative and also venture out, for example, Le Calandre in Padua.
Harry's Bar. We went (I was forced) to go there once because one of my husband's business partners was in Venice the same time we were, and just HAD to go there. Horrid! Awful! The Bellinis (which I did not have) were 15E at the time. The place was packed with foreigners, probably 75% of them American, looked like an American club/bar (which I suppose it's supposed to), and had no view of anything. I sat there the entire time thinking of the places I could be instead.
In contrast, we are willing to splurge on one drink at one of the outdoor cafes in Piazza San Marco. Also very expensive, but worth it for the ambience and the views.
You may want to consider putting Anice Stellato higher on your list of places to eat. It's quite close to your hotel, which you may appreciate after a long and busy day wandering through Venice. In fact, I think it's the restaurant on your list that is the closest to your hotel. We've gone there almost every time we've visited Venice, and like their updated versions of classic Venetian dishes. The only item I didn't really like was their cecchetti plate. The fondamenta that Anice Stellato is on also has several other restaurants. And in terms of being casual, it's closer to Alla Testiere in ambience than it is to places like ai Promessi Sposi. And I'd choose alla Botte over ai Promessi Sposi, too.
Also close to your hotel is Osteria da Rioba, Fondamenta de la Misericordia 2553. I've never been, but had it on my list for our last visit to Venice, based on good reviews from various places, including Chowhound.
We have eaten at Trattoria all’Antica Mola, Fondamenta degli Ormesini, 2800, Cannaregio, another place very close to your hotel. It was a small, unassuming traditional place. Worth a visit if you're in the area and want a simpler, more basic dinner (their bacala was good, in particular).