Grand Opening: Antojitos Carmen, a Piece of Breed St. Finds a Permanent Home in Boyle Heights
- streetgourmetla Jan 27, 2010 07:50 AM
Back in 2007 I came across the gathering at Breed and Cesar Chavez that became a regular Los Angeles institution.Back then the vendors were about a dozen or so, lined up on either side of Breed St., just north of Cesar Chavez.
It would be a while before others would discover the magic of Breed St.,but all throughout the rising profile of this street fair I was a regular attendee on Sunday nights.
When Gloria Molina started her heinous crackdown on the trucks some of the vendors were chased away, and the remaining hold outs started to gather in the Bank of America parking, where many more vendors joined in due to the popularity of the street fair and the spaciousness of the parking lot.
Antojitos Carmen was one of the originals,though.The recent demise of the Breed St. Fair due to pressures from local restaurants ended an era.
But I say, be careful what you wish for.Any of you restauranteurs that might have made one of those phone calls to break up that rowdy street fair stealing all your business? Now you've done it. Antojitos Carmen is here to stay, better get your ass back in the test kitchen, compa!
On Sunday, January 10, 2010, I attended the opening of Antijitos Carmen's new restaurant, just down the street where they once battled it out with three dozen other stands.While others are still scrambling for places to seel their food, Antojitos Carmen has taken it to the next level.
The kitchen was well staffed that day, and hustling to keep up with the packed restaurant and the new challenges of a brick and mortar.
Carmen, who had become so well known amongst the Los Angeles food scene through blogs and local press was on fire. Cooking, directing, and squeezing in between family members in the narrow cook's corridor.
The small restaurant was packed on opening day as a steady stream of Carmen's well documented DF style "little whims", called antojitos, glided from kitchen to already worn earthy-red booths.
The familiar salsa of dried red chiles all to myself, part of me enjoyed the exclusivity, and the other part missed the hordes crowding around condiments, vying for the space to finish dressing their sopes or huaraches. "Permiso." "Pase"
Ah pozole, the benefit of stoves and counter space means that Antojitos Carmen has a few more items on their restaurant menu.
Flautas for the gentleman in the hat, gorditas for table number two.No numbers to call out and no cops to chase you away, just the nice officers sitting at table number three asking for that "flat thing with the green sauce."
The extended family of sopes is what Carmen is known for, though. Masa shapes:sopes, huaraches, gorditas,and quesadillas filled with home cooking fillings of huitlacochem squash blossoms, tinga(spicy meat),picadillo,potato and chorizo,chicharron,carne desebrada(shredded meat), and mushrooms. Enchiladas,fried tacos, or dorados,round out a solid offering of supper time favorites.
There was a seamless rotation at the tortilla station, a serious task for an organization molded from a mound of masa.
Abraham, Carmen's son, carefully prepares to deliver a sope and a tostada, assisted by an intent East Los beauty. An OG picks up another order and grabs a bottle of Jarritos.
Menudo debuts at straight out of Carmen's home kitchen, along with seven different tortas,migas(egg, cheese, and tortilla bits),stewed chicharrones, ribs in salsa,barbacoa,eggs any way you like.
Two elderly gentlemen wearing their Sunday best, blast ballads on a karaoke machine, a little bit of Joan Sebastian for your tia(aunt), and some Don Chente los abuelitos(grandparents).
When I stopped by the other night, their new sign had just been installed and lit.Opening day has now passed, the cops can't bother you any more, you can all take a deep breath and sit back and enjoy this a bit.This was 20 years in the making!!And for me? It's a little strange adjusting to being able to sit down, but I'll manage.
Congratulations to Carmen, her family, and all their loyal customers, who will always be a part of Breed St. long after that day when the comals and fryers went dark.
8:30AM-10PM Mon-Thurs.,8:30AM-midnight Fri.-Sun.
2510 E. Cesar Chavez
Boyle Heights, CA
Nice writeup. I'm looking forward to trying it.
To those who are thinking, "Aiiie, East L.A.," I urge you to get over it and head out there. It's a bit gritty-looking, yes—very urban—but the people are very nice and the gatherings on the street around the vendors are very convivial and polite. If you don't speak Spanish, it's almost certain someone will volunteer to translate for you.
I imagine the scene in Antojitos Carmen's new home is probably the same... and I remember the food from Breed St. with great salivation.
re: Das Ubergeek
The space is quite charming in a rasquache (Wiki it) sort of way. The tables have glass over a table cloth with a little filet motif in the center. That and a cup of their Atole de Nuez totally made me feel like I was at my Abuelita's house...
Anyway, in terms of East Los, it's in a decent neighborhood, well lit and parking is easy. I went at night in the middle of a pouring rain storm... for the Atole and to try the Enchilada's J Gold has been raving about. I ADORE Enchiladas... so I was prepared to be PICKY...
OMG! I was impressed... first, they are very much unlike the typical style, refined thin sauce, neat stuffed rolls. These are much more rustic... the sauce has so much PUNCH, but is actually a little chunky with stewed tomatoes and onions. The tortillas are absolutely SOAKED with it, folded over the filling. I chose squash blossom and almost immediately regreted it. I was afraid the flavor of the blossoms would be over powered... but they WORKED since base of the bud added a bit of cruch and the petals just added to the earthiness of the dish.
Now, I think I STILL perfer the ones at Carneceria Sanchez a little better (I'll have to visit again soon to compare) but the filling, salsa and toppings (Just a bunch of Queso Anejo with fresh lettuce, pico de gallo and nopal) on these made these not only more unique, but in a way more special.
I can not WAIT to return back and try the Migas...
Now that I have personal business in East LA, this place will be a regular stop for me. If you are worried about being in East LA, the place is near the corner of Soto and Cesar Chavez, just a few blocks from the 10 freeway. Abraham is a fantastic host.
The most unbelievable sopes and tacos dorados. I recommend the pan fried sope; Carmen does. And the tacos dorados were filled with a wonderfully fluffy potato filling.
Coming back for the enchiladas.
Thanks again, SGLA.
Abraham is the face of Antojitos Carmen, and a gentleman, tweeting away like a pro from exile to brick and mortar.
This neighborhood is nothing to worry about at all.
This marks the begininning of one of only a handful of cenadurias in Los Angeles. A cenaduria that does also does breakfast, and a little comida corrida.
You're welcome, and since you're so close, hope you share all of your meals with us as you get explore the menu.
Finally catching up on various threads, phew. Great review, and I'm so glad to hear one of the Breed Street vendors landed into a more permanent home. :) I can't wait to try this!
Went with a group for lunch today. This is a find. The value is outrageous. To start, chips, 2 salsas & smashed avocado were gratis. Between the four of us, we covered most of the menu. We had tortas, tacos, huraches, enchiladas, gorditas & burritos with a wide assortment of fillings / toppings. A habanero salsa and another rough paste, for lack of a better term, with sesame seeds and chiles were brought out with our mains. We were planning our return as we ate. Best of all, Abraham made us feel like familia.
I also went today, but had to dash for a meeting in Burbank so I got my order to go: a sope de huitlacoche and a sope de papa y chorizo.
The sope de huitlacoche was excellent but the papa y chorizo was friggin' outstanding. And, at $3.25 a pop, hard to argue with the price. Their red salsa was out of this world. (The green was good too, but the red... ahhhh!)
I look forward to trying more, including the migas.
I win!! ;DD
Had it this weekend... I've had Migas once before... AGES ago... So long ago, I didn't even remember if I liked it or not. But for some reason when SGLA mentioned it, there was this calling... primal...
Anyway, as you can see from the picture, it's quite the substantial soup. The bread is in clumps, but well integrated into the flavor of the soup. The meat comes in a clod, Carmen smiled and nodded in approval as I properly shredded it on my plate as soon as I got the dish and added it back in... yes, my Mami raised me right...
Anyway, overall, I can say I really enjoyed it. Heartier than a Pozole, but more approachable than a Menudo, it makes QUITE the breakfast without being overly heavy. The bread rather seeps into your soul. It almost made me wish I was hung over to really make most of the resortative properties...
Anyway, I have much better pictures and more to talk about our absolutely fabulous breakfast at Carmens as there was a dish we loved even more than the Migas, but I have work calling me right now... I promise to get to it in the next couple of days...
Okay! Got out of class early...
First, better picture of the Migas... as you can see, when I got the soup, P. went what the heck is that... I took a taste and went YUM!
But our favorite dish of the breakfast was the Alambre which here is a complete mish mash of meats, veggies and a copious amount of Oaxacan string cheese.
Now, I LOVE la Super Rica and ESPECIALLY their Alambre dishes. But this seriously blew their versions out of the water. It was the bacon, They use a much more heartier and smokey version which just brings the whole dish together.
Also the Cheese is added at the point when the dish is the HOTTEST, right before it comes out of the pan... so it just COATS the whole thing. La Super Rica uses Monterrey jack, which is tasty but the Oxacan cheese has so more flavor and the texture is much softer and creamier.
Finally, the made to order handmade tortillas, Softer and a bit more flavorful that LSR. We love that they are served on the SIDE, and can really hold up to the overall heartiness of the dish.
This is very much a destination dish, especially if you love LSR. Can't wait to have it again...
re: Das Ubergeek
LOL! You know, I noticed how greasy the dish was for the FIRST time when uploaded the pic last night and was concerned... As we dug into it, we did not even get the sense of the grease, the flavors were well integrated, bright. And the amazing salsa roja cut through any sense of being overly rich.
I haven't been to ERC but it's been on my radar, in fact, I mentioned it to one of my Professors at my Thesis review last term as she desperately wanted to find something new in the OC area and I remembered your wonderful blog post about it! Last I checked in with her (last week) she hadn't gone... but was still eager to try...
Finally had a chance to try Antojitos Carmen tonight. I was completely depressed when Breed St. got dissolved. Ever since, Antojitos Carmen had been on my list of "to eat" for a while, and I finally got out to Boyle Heights to try it tonight. And I am very glad I did! I ordered the huarache de asada and the sope de huitlacoche. Chips were brought out immediately, and I grabbed a couple saucers of salsa. I was really liking their salsa roja - spicy, but not too overpowering. The sope arrived first and it was delicious. I poured some of the (what I thought was habenero) salsa - the thinner, orangish stuff on it as well as some of the salsa roja, and it was great. Just as I finished that, the huarache arrived, and I paired the salsa verde with that, and it went great. The asada was delicious and beefy (with no fatty or gristly pieces); my only quasi-complaint would be I would have liked a little char on the asada. I also tried some of the salsa that is a creamy, light-brownish color, and boy that was spicy! And I love (and can handle) spice! Unfortunately, I finished my Sidral by the time a started digging into this salsa, so it was starting to make me sweat! It had a spice that I couldn't quite put my finger on ...
Overall I loved this place. And what a deal - <$9 for food and drink + tax. Though, I must say, Nina's is still numero uno to me.
2510 East Cesar E Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90033
I LOVE Nina and hope she gets easier to find in the future, but I really have to give it Carmen who runs a top notch operation from morning till late night, she was there early in morning when I needed comfort food before taking my comps, she was there in the evening, after the test when I needed to calm myself down. Her menu also has expanded A LOT. In fact, I was REAL skeptical about some of the new additions... after the test, I decided to distract myself by getting ready to tear down her new Chile Rellenos... There are SOOOO many bad and sloppy versions of this dish all around L.A., it REALLY takes a deft hand to do an excellent version... My previous favorite was Guelagetza... now it's Carmen's with her mini versions.... great batter, flavorful salsa, cheesy and firey bombs and you get three to go with her three perfect tortillas...
Darn you for posting a link to your whole page of photos: I open it up and the first thing I see is the Lechon Asado @ Havana Mania. :) Crispy Pork Skin and Roasted Pork first thing in the morning. Now I'm craving it! (^_^) Thanks for the recommendation for Carmen's Chile Rellenos; I have to try this very soon. :)
Opps! I meant to link the picture... but as usual was doing 20 different things last night... including baking a cake! :)
You can get more information about the Crispy Lechon (And where you CAN get first thing in the morning!) here:
Got a chance to make it to Carmen's again, this time my wife joined me. We had the following:
Cemitas poblana with chicken milaneza. Really delicious, and the chicken and cheese had a hard time staying in the bread.
Pambazo with chorizo. This was new for us as well. Just great. I would order it again.
Deep fried quesadilla with carnitas. Never had anything like this before. Just fantastically light and crispy. The highlight of our meal.
Carne asada taco. I didn't get to try it. My wife just gobbled it down. she liked it.
Strawberry Banana drink went down well on a warm day.
Such a fantastic menu of great food. We will likely go back and order totally different items. The place was packed even tho we were there after 1. It's a busy, urban neighborhood with plenty of meter parking on the street.