Munich - Riesling flights or by the glass?
Will be in Munich next week ('twill be cold, I'm sure) just for a quick weekend (Saturday morning through Sunday late afternoon). Staying near Old Town so imagine I will be doing a lot of sightseeing around Marienplatz and Viktualienmarkt. Based on prior recs I think I have a few ideas for good restaurants to dine at (and of course will eat my way through Viktualienmarkt).
I love German rieslings so am hoping to have the opportunity to try many. Any recommendations for wine bars / restaurants that offer flights for tastings or have a good selection of by-the-glass rieslings?
Any suggestions for places to buy a bottle or two affordably to bring back? (And any advice for packing it in the middle of my suitcase when I have another country to visit before heading back to the US)?
The Pfaelzer Weinstube in the Residenz might be a good place to try a lot of different German Rieslings. IIRC they had a lot of wines listed, many by the glass or carafe. The food was fair to middling but the flammkuchen was very good. Service a bit rude, perhaps because my unfortunate dining companion had the temerity to ask for a beer. I would go there for lunch.
Keep in mind though that Austria is closer to Munich that the Pfalz is. So you might want to add Austrian wines to the list. One place that comes to mind is geisel's vinothek:
Great wine list, both german and other, excellent food with a strong Tirolean (ie Austria/North Italy) influence. Ah, I see someone already mentioned it.
Another thing you might want to try is wines from Franken. Also not far from Munich.
For bottles to bring back, you might want to try Retters near Viktualienmarkt. They specialize in wines from German speaking countries, small, well edited selection and the staff is really friendly and informative. They have a nice restaurant attached as well. Link: http://www.retters.de/
While Munich is clearly a beer town it is also representative of the German attitude to its wine: Ambivalent at best and Disdainful at most. Across Munich you will find only the worst German schoppenwein by the glass. However, the shicky micky love their Italian wine so there are at least 15 Italian wine bars in the city center alone.
Therefore, the best advice I can give you is to stop at the wineshop www.allaboutwine.de attached to the Hotel Koenigshof at 25 Karlsplatz and ask if they can suggest anything I haven't found in years of visiting. Their sister restaurant Geisel's Vinotek at the Hotel Excelsior is a great wine destination but a formal restaurant. Also, for your purpose I do not suggest the Weinhaus Schneider, good for fondue and ok for wine but not really acceptable as wine bar.
One place to try is the Pfalzer Residenz Weinstube near the Odeonplatz, depending on what they're pouring the wine of the Pfalz can be great particularly if you prefer dry (trocken) wines. However, my experience has been that they typically offer plonk by the glass.
To purchase wine I again suggest allaboutwein as well as Dallmayer (both expensive). You see that since many of the Germans that like good German Riesling from the Mosel or Rheingau order it to their home directly from the winery, there are not many good wine shops selling German wines. Only the cheapest and the most expensive make it through to the shops.
As far as Viktualienmarkt I would suggest stopping at Ursula Luppen, which has one of the best German wine selections at the market.
re: Trip Klaus
Thanks for the Ursula Luppen tip above, Trip Klaus.
Back from Dallymar myself today:
It is indeed very pricey to say the least, but amazing. How about a 450 Euro bottle of cognac, anyone? Still, well worth the visit to this beautiful place.
re: Trip Klaus
Trip Klaus, my sincere appreciation for your mentioning Geisel's Vinotek in this thread (and I believe another one also). I just returned from Munich several days ago and had dinner at their bar on Friday and Saturday night. Excellent food, fairly priced and interesting wine list along with wonderful, friendly, welcoming ambience. Thank you!
re: Joe H
re: Trip Klaus
Geisel's both nights at the bar. Excellent risotto (Vacheron Mont d'Or, pear and speck-just superb flavor!), halibut carpaccio. Sat next to Dirk Niepoort and Wilhelm Haag on Friday each of whom shared outstanding bottles with me. They were in Munich for a wine show on Sunday, the highlight of which was Niepoort opening a 10 litre bottle of '31 Port. Excellent '04 El Seque Monastrell off of the wine list for E 45.
We've made the decision to go to Ikarus at Hanger 7 by the way.
Although Bayern lost to Fiorentina they advance to the Champions League quarter finals on aggregate.
Hi, it is cold in Munich right now but bearable. I'm not at all a Munich resto expert in terms of good restos with tasting flights, but I wanted you to know that if you are from the US or Canada you will find many, many excellent and highly affordable wines at a number of the market stalls at the Viktualienmarkt. There are plenty of wine shops as well around the Marienplatz.