New Mexico goes casual upscale: Restaurant Martin (Santa Fe) and Jennifer James 101 (ABQ)

[finlero]

In the past few weeks, I had the pleasure of dining at two eateries that are each doing their part to fill one of New Mexico's only seeming culinary voids: the casual upscale restaurant.

** Restaurant Martin, Santa Fe **

Located in a standalone building a few blocks outside the tourist vortex, the restaurant pulls off an understated elegance with soft colors, lighter woods, no tablecloths. Food is relatively daring by Santa Fe standards, using clever combinations of local ingredients and international techniques. A lot of work has clearly gone into the recipes and preparations; each dish felt notably well conceived, and as excellent as everything tasted, plating was perhaps the strongest suit here, making impressive use of both the ingredients and interesting-shaped dishware.

In terms of taste, everything was very good, but that being said, nothing leapt out at me as either groundbreaking or the very best XYZ I'd ever tried. Obviously, neither of these is a requirement for a terrific night out, and I probably wouldn't even mention it, save that Chef Martin Rios is clearly trying to turn himself into something of a brand, from the name of the restaurant, to the (very friendly and accommodating) staff being trained to drop his name, to the website highlighting pictures of his appearance on Iron Chef America. IMO, the chow isn't quite "brand-worthy", but I didn't need or expect it to be. If anything, I was impressed by the opposite: with entrees in the $20s and the vast majority of the wine list well south of $100, this is the sort of place we could visit semi-regularly as a high-end neighborhood restaurant, instead of a once-in-a-blue-moon destination restaurant. So if you can wink at the vaguely incongruous branding, it makes for a truly nice evening out. And while the restaurant is undeniably expensive, you can do plenty more damage to your wallet elsewhere in town.

Chow highlights: pork belly starter (fatty smoky sweet salty deliciousness), duck entree (perfect medium-rare, with both the duck hash and smoked bacon polenta making some of the best accompaniments imaginable). Beer and wine only, markup seems about average.

** Jennifer James 101, Albuquerque **

Sitting in a strip mall in a not-particularly-auspicious neighborhood, this place seems to be actively trying to cultivate an interesting concept of no-fuss upscale dining in ABQ. The decor is simple and sleek, with a basic orange-brown color scheme, modern leather chairs, stemless glassware, etc. The kitchen and dining space occupy the same room, separated by a half wall; it's a nifty idea that literally and figuratively removes some of the barrier between chef and diner, creating an unusual and welcome twist on the dining out experience. I'll quibble that I liked the room better in concept than aesthetic: tables were too close together, there was no space for an entry area of any sort, the single door created a nasty draft on a cold winter night. I respect the no-pretense concept a lot, and if you're trying something relatively new and daring, I certainly appreciate choosing a lower-rent site to start the business, but a few additional frills would really tie things together without getting in the way.

Food was fairly hearty, well-prepared New American, with quite a bit of apparent classical French technique mixed in, and a menu that appears to change every month or two. Unusual for an upscale restaurant, entrees were significantly better-tasting than first courses. Presentations had a little less panache than those at Restaurant Martin, but this worked in JJ101's favor, further extending the philosophy that upscale dining can be delicious without being snooty or formal. Speaking of formal, service was a smidge moreso than I might have expected or hoped, but the staff were also exceptionally knowledgeable about both the food and wine. Whereas entree prices spanning the $20s seemed like a good deal at Restaurant Martin in Santa Fe, they struck me as a little too steep for ABQ. Regardless, a really well-executed, refreshing idea in dining, I'll look forward to getting back.

Chow highlights: bacon-wrapped pheasant (delicious served with potato-apple hash), duck breast in currant sauce (perfectly cooked, and served with some of the best sunchokes I've ever had, apparently boiled, halved, and seared), coffee pot de creme. Beer and wine only, with some good value on the wine list; a handful of clever cocktails made with sherry and Lillet.

(No place link available, but Jennifer James 101 is located at 4615 Menaul, a little west of San Mateo.)

[finlero]

OK, got a place link now for JJ101. Adding.

[latindancer]

Having followed Martin Rios, for many years, all over the small town of Santa Fe, I know
anything and everything he does is stellar.
In a few weeks I'll be back to 'my home away from home' and I'm looking forward to this new endeavor of his.
I must have missed the Iron Chef segment you're referring to. You make reference to his wait staff. I have always been impressed with how he makes sure they are thoroughly educated on how each dish is prepared. They know every ingredient and, when asked, can tell the customer anything they want to know.
I will miss, based on the new menu he has prepared, the elk preparation he is so well known for. The duck and chicken hash is memorable and I'm very happy he's integrated them into his new menu. He as always been, long before he was introduced to the TV viewing world, one of my favorite chefs.

[GroovinGourmet]

Glad to see that JJ is back at it. Never made it to her former eponymous establishment, but totally loved my visit to Graze when it was opened. I think he cooking is both smart and tasty.