WAKETOKUYAMA, his fascinating chef NOZAKI and a dairy on Kaiseki
Before the description of the meal, the fascination for Nozaki-san is also his book on “Japanese traditional knives” : a change on manipulate kives and easy recipees.
Have had a diner Waketokuyama in the modern desgn building of his restaurant in Hiroo, a lot of pleasant things, in the style Kappou (=open counter) : feelings of Kaiseki as non formal, strength in the use of the products and dashi =( stock ), less defined by complex directives and more opened.
For 30 years, with his books, his philosophy is "passing my thoughts". As you arrive, you will cross his “welcoming” eyes behind the open counter, and that is his sacred magic.
There is no fuddy-duddy, some contacts, some preparations in front of your eyes and explanations : a picking in history of japan kaiskei, and the impact of today`s…
The menu is pre fix at yens, dislike are possible to arrange, here a description of the menu of the night :
Saki zuke : small aberlone on a sweet sake white miso soup
Owan : boiled schrimp, marinated, salmon sushi
Otsukuri : finely cube radish soup with cod
Hassun : assortiment of different things and with a tasty oyster cake
Yakimono : aberlone grilled with nori, “liver” sauce to prononce the taste of the sweet aberlone
Nimono : lobster with scallops on a fish broth with nori
Shokuji : rice boiled on a marmite with stock made from fish bones and fish
Desert : matcha yuba and pear with lemon gelly
All this is in a contemporary conception, as the book is fascinating, as the products of the sea delivered in his work are sublime. The second floor
And it a is a one star…This restaurant was full, clients are mostly japanese, most do preparation on few japenese words, japanese seafood preparation before going or you might not enjoy it as I did.
Nozaki is a great guy, with a deep technical and philosophical knowledge of the Japanese kitchen. I met him while working on that knife book a few years ago, never got to eat his food, but when I get a real job again someday, Waketokuyama is on my must do list. Isn't owan a soup and otsukuri the sashimi course?