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Supper in the Marais area

Voluptua Jan 19, 2010 04:32 AM

Myself and my 'squeeze' are visiting Paris later this month (January). I'm hoping for some recommendations for good places to eat in the Marais area. We'll be staying on the Rue des Archives. There seems to be such a wealth of possibilities. I can't wait to get there!

We are taking four of our relatives to dinner on one of the nights. They are all seasoned Parisians of many years standing and wouldn't be impressed by anything ostentatious. It will be the first time they've met, so I'm looking for somewhere quite intimate, with delicious food, a discerning wine selection and good value.

For the rest of our stay, we're up for everything! If you have any particular favourite spot for a lunch or somewhere to really push the boat out on one of the evenings. That would be wonderful.

Many thanks in advance - Voluptua

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  1. souphie RE: Voluptua Jan 19, 2010 04:42 AM

    Paris is expensive, but basically the more you pay, the better it can be. So we'd need to know your budget to respond to you better.

    Also, the topic of nice little bistrots is very amply covered on this board. That said, adding the "intimate" requirement significantly decreases available choices. Being an almost seasoned Parisian, I would go for Le Pétrelle, but that's assuming you and your guests can take the profoundly non-ostentatious quality of it.

    1 Reply
    1. re: souphie
      Voluptua RE: souphie Jan 19, 2010 04:50 AM

      Thanks for that quick response Soupie . . . Our budget would be around €25 for lunches and €80 per person for dinner. All good wishes, Voluptua

    2. famdoc RE: Voluptua Jan 19, 2010 08:39 AM

      I love Le Petit Fer a Cheval, 30,rue Vieille-du-Temple. It's a bar in the front, with a small dining room in the back. The menu is posted on a blackboard and you can pretty much watch your meal being prepared from your table: the kitchen is clearly visible behind a door that's usually left open. Economical, friendly and tasty. Good for lunch, too.

      1 Reply
      1. re: famdoc
        plafield RE: famdoc Jan 19, 2010 11:00 AM

        I've had a number of conistently delcious meals at Le Hangar 12, impasse Berthaud, (Tel: 01 42 74 55 44) It's tiny place that can be a little challenging to find down a tiny side street in back of the Pompidou. They only take cash, a la carte, but fine value, espesially the fab slab of foie gras over olive oil potato puree.

        Le Pamphlet 38 rue Debelleyme, (tel 33 1 42 72 39 24 Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday, Monday lunch) is quite lovely with a mid 30's E 3 course menu.= that's an outstanding value.

        Gaigne, 12, rue Pecquay in the 4th, (, closed Tuesday – thus open Saturday, Sunday and Mondays) has been getting some great reviews and is on my short list for our next trip to Paris, particularly for a Sunday evening when so many of the good places are closed.

        If you like crepes, Breizh Café 109, rue Vieille du Temple (01 42 72 13 77 closed Monday and Tuesday, but open continuously throughout the day the rest of the week) is the real deal and some of the best in Paris. Buckwheat with excellent quality fillings and very reasonably priced. Best to reserve as it get quite crowded during prime dinner and lunch hours.

        And I highly recommend leaving the Marais as well, as there is fantastic food all over the city. If you want a real splurge and an incredible food, service and ambiance experience, treat yourself to the 85E lunch special at Le Cinq , avenue George V (8th) 33 (0) 1 49 52 70 00 Amamzing!

      2. famdoc RE: Voluptua Jan 19, 2010 11:03 AM

        Here are a few photos from Le Petit Fer A Cheval (which translates as "horsehoe," owing to the shape of the bar). BTW, the neighborhood is spelled "Marais" which means marsh.
        Despite the crowds, it is one of my favorite neighborhoods, a mix of a Jewish ghetto, an art gallery haven, a focus of gay activity and some nice boutiques.

        1 Reply
        1. re: famdoc
          PhilD RE: famdoc Jan 19, 2010 01:52 PM

          It translates as little horseshoe because it is a tiny bar. It was one of my favourites for a early beer on a Friday evening, however I wouldn't especially recommend the food as it is pretty basic cafe/bar fare.

          Far better to head 50m along the road to Les Philosophes which has better food and a lot more space, it is a great venue to sit and people watch, especially from the terrace, there is also L'Etoile Manquante in the opposite direction and La Belle Hortense almost opposite which are all good bets for a drink and snack (but not fine dining).

          All of these (plus a few others) are owned by the same person Xavier Denamur and so you will see bread and wine supplies being ferried between each place.

        2. menton1 RE: Voluptua Jan 19, 2010 12:12 PM

          In reading over your criteria, Le Gaigne came immediately to mind. It's intimate, not ostentatious, simple, and the food is GREAT. Right off Rue des Archives on rue Pecquay and Rue des Francs Bourgeois. I think this fits your bill to a "T".


          2 Replies
          1. re: menton1
            John Talbott RE: menton1 Jan 19, 2010 12:32 PM

            Le Gaigne no question.
            Colliot, Au Bascou & Breizh also fun.

            John Talbott

            1. re: John Talbott
              Voluptua RE: John Talbott Jan 21, 2010 02:05 AM

              Many thanks to you all for sharing your recommendations. I'll post a report when I get back.

          2. John Talbott RE: Voluptua May 15, 2010 06:09 AM

            I'm always at a loss about places in the Marais, except Colliot and le Gaigne and the Dome (which I haven't been to in years), especially in its heart or near St Paul.
            Well, I had a terrific meal at the Comptoir des Mers today (1 rue de Turenne) - it's tiny; 12 inside seats, 6 outside, but attached as it is to a fish store and take-out shop, has high quality (and pricy) fish. Pix you know where.

            John Talbott's Paris

            11 Replies
            1. re: John Talbott
              menton1 RE: John Talbott May 15, 2010 01:46 PM

              John-- The Marais is a very exciting area, and there are lots of places to eat in the Marais! You should get there more often!

              Monjul--- A unique presentation, with food as art.
              Le Coude Fou-- Wall murals are a great accompaniment to the food.
              Vins des Pyrenees-- Haven't been personally, but good buzz.
              Le Grizzli-- Long standing restaurant, some say it's a little variable...
              Baracane/Bistro de L'Oulette-- very good bistro.
              Le Trumilou-- Rustic but good.

              And get over to Dome du Marais, John, it's a really good experience!

              1. re: menton1
                fanoffrance RE: menton1 May 16, 2010 05:18 AM

                Menton1, are you familiar with Au Fil des Saisons? Some love it; on the other hand, some French online forums... (hope that was vague enough)

                1. re: menton1
                  dcbbq RE: menton1 May 18, 2010 02:20 PM

                  Amen to Le Grizzli, Baracane and Dome du Marais -- especially the Dome, where theseafood was superb.

                  1. re: dcbbq
                    DebitNM RE: dcbbq Feb 19, 2011 06:37 AM

                    Heading to the Marais at the end of April; any new suggestions to add to the ones above? Thanks~

                    1. re: DebitNM
                      Parigi RE: DebitNM Feb 19, 2011 06:41 AM

                      "any new suggestions"

                      There are. You will find them all by searching "Marais".
                      If you still have specific questions on those recs found, I am sure many on this board will be happy to reply.

                      1. re: Parigi
                        DebitNM RE: Parigi Feb 19, 2011 07:34 AM

                        Thank you for you insight. I did do a search, which is how I found this thread. My search turned up limited posts and none all to current.

                  2. re: menton1
                    Fuffy RE: menton1 Mar 18, 2011 04:20 PM

                    John, don't listen to him. Vins des Pyrenees (the only one I have tried) is not good.

                    1. re: Fuffy
                      Parigi RE: Fuffy Mar 18, 2011 04:28 PM

                      I beg to differ. Quite a few Irouléguy wines are quite good.

                      1. re: Parigi
                        mangeur RE: Parigi Mar 18, 2011 05:53 PM

                        I quite agree about the excellent wines from the deep southwest. I think that Fluffy's comment about 'Vins des Pyrenees' refers to the restaurant, not the wines in general. Earlier reports on the restaurant were less critical than recent ones. I've not been.

                        1. re: mangeur
                          Fuffy RE: mangeur Mar 19, 2011 02:31 PM

                          Definitely the restaurant not the wines of the region I was objecting to.

                          1. re: Fuffy
                            Parigi RE: Fuffy Mar 19, 2011 03:01 PM

                            Oops sorriest.

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