Penzey's Spices catalog--is it just me?
I've been buying my spices from Penzey's for years--first from the catalog, then from the Richmond store. While I love the spices I have to admit that Bill Penzey's been annoying me for years because of his ongoing fat and salt phobia. I noticed on my last visit to the store that the big salt display had been diminished to just kosher and regular sea salt, and in the most recent catalog Bill had this to say:
"A really good and healthy thing going on with food right now is that people are using less salt. We want to be a part of this. Going forward we will continue to sell reasonably priced generic salts of the earth and sea, but we will no longer be selling the higher priced specialty salts. I feel things have gotten to a point where the specialty salts are glamorizing the use of salt and, with that, encouraging people to use more of it. I have also found that along with the marketing of specialty salt has come a great deal of misinformation, including claims that some salts don’t affect your health like others do. This is just not true and not something we want to be a part of. Salt is salt, it really is, and it tastes no different no matter where it comes from."
Why don't you just say "they weren't selling" like the nice man in the Richmond store told me when I asked about it? Apparently it's all right to sell spice blends full of sugar and have most of your catalog recipes be for desserts (they're low-fat!) but Dog forbid someone might put salt in something. Sorry, Bill, different salts DO taste different--and you said so when you started selling the salts a few years ago. It was an experiment that didn't work out, just admit it.
/rant
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I have used Penzey's spices for decades. I make a trek in to the local shop several times a year and am looking forward to doing this in again soon. I didn't read a salt rant, but a statement that he didn't like fancy salts. When he started carrying the sea salts, it was with a dismissive description. But I don't know why he would be on a good health kick; the recipes he publishes are certainly not healthy! Actually I think his publishing of the recipes from ordinary cooks is fine. This is how people really cook, folks. And what he prints is better than average. The people he profiles are good cooks who enjoy food. What he is doing with his catalog is unique.
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I've always purchased my spices from Penzey's, but their catalog does resemble "Taste of Home" magazine (before the upgrade)...not that there's anything wrong with that.
I must admit being disappointed after receiving my $200 Penzey's order...only to find that the spices selling at my local 99 cent store looked much fresher. Live and learn.
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re: Funwithfood
Now and then I buy stuff from Penzey's in Grand Central Station, usually vanilla. I have to say, though, that I couldn't bring myself to buy anything from them the first couple of years they were there, because they replaced a fantastic spice store called Adrianna's Caravan that was one of my favorite food stores in NYC, right behind Kalustyan. Adrianna's was amazing - a really varied stock for a tiny little place, and not just spices but all kinds of hot sauces, chocolate sauce and cocoa, and kitchenware generally. I got my Italian marble mortar and pestle there for less than they sold for at the kitchen supply stores on the
Bowery. The GC Market people just decided one year to refuse to renew her lease, and give the spot to Penzey's instead - and that was that. Not Penzey's fault of course, at least as far as I know - but every time I go there I feel secretly disappointed at having to buy from them instead of Adrianna.
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I noticed the same thing, and it ticked me off, as I am POSITIVE that there are taste differences in salt (which is why we buy Real Salt by the 25# bag). The catalog seems to get hokey-folksy-er with each issue--it's starting to read like that creepy "Taste of Home" magazine, and his "blends" occasionally have some junk in them...
The spices are great. The PR seems to be doing itself a real disservice, lately.
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I agree with you about Bill, the catalog, and that particular little rant, but wasn't surprised. he's always struck me as a particularly irrational person in the way he runs the business. I shop because the quality is reliably high, and prices are generally reasonable. I just ignore the horrible photography and (sometimes) poorly written recipes, but like the local shop with their engaging staff. Those ladies are a delight, love sharing recipes, and are so helpful. Don't let Bill get to you. He's a crank, but his company's a good one.
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This makes no sense. The reason most people consume too much salt is because processed foods have an insane amount of sodium. People who cook most of their meals themselves - Penzey's customers, presumably - are the ones who least need to be preached to.
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re: theuninvitedguest
I think the caveat in the catalog is there for the "newly gourmatized" cook who is looking for the designer salts that have been so popular & touted in fancy magazines. I really appreciate Penzey's salt free blends since I try to restrict my salt intake. As a matter of fact, one of my little Christmas gift baskets was for a friend who has a heart condition and needs to restrict her salt as well. I think that basket was the one that was the most appreciated.
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I don't mind the catalog. I live less about 5 miles from one of their stores, and their spices were my gift of choice this Christmas. I bought tons of jars & tons of spices in the bulk bags, then repackaged then to put in decorative baskets/containers. Included in the basket was a copy of the catalog so new Penzey-ites would have a reference point.
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re: PattiCakes
You can put me on your Christmas list!! :-) I live about 35 miles from the closest store, went there earlier this week, and got terrible service. I have ordered from them for quite a while, but was so disappointed by their service. It kind of makes me want to call them and complain.
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If you don't mind mail order, The Spice House has a good selection of salts available. It's the shop originally owned by Bill Penzey Sr. and is now operated by his daughter Patty. The quality of the herbs and spices at both of the siblings companies is about the same.
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re: MandalayVA
The Meadow out of Portland, Ore. has a tremendous salt selection, and Mark Bitterman is very knowledgable about his salts. Love this place: http://www.atthemeadow.com/shop/
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re: MandalayVA
I've never mail ordered from The Spice House, just been in their store. They have very similar stock, with a bunch of unique blends ... and an attitude not found in Penzey's stores.
The last time I shopped there (about a year ago) they had a good selection of interesting salts.
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That anyone would claim they don't tast different is hysterical. I still remember a salt tasting years ago and being amazed by how different they were.
BUT and here's the biggie: I could only taste the difference when I tried a small small small taste. If I loaded up the bread/olive oil with a ton of a particular salt, I could just taste SALT.
So maybe the real problem is that Mr. Penzey has not himself been doing a light hand on the salt and his doctor has caught up with him. -
I just ignore Bill and the catalogue. The quality of their spices and herbs is so good that I can't boycott them. I think different salts, though overprices, are fun - even those that threaten to break my teeth.
They just opened a store 17 miles from me, so once in a while I go in and smell my way around - so much fun!
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re: Claudette
Exactly. I don't even read the catalog any more -- I should probably call and ask them to quit sending it. But I dislike it for the same reasons that I dislike the Sur la Table catalog and the Williams Sonoma catalog -- I just don't enjoy the overt experience of being sold.
But oh, I appreciate the fact that at the store they have little jars of every spice for customers to smell! It makes a huge difference when deciding among different blends, or trying something new.Plus, they're the only place near me that sells Ceylon cinnamon, and I love their new cinnamon blend.
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re: MandalayVA
I love the shallot salt - it's my new 'secret' weapon. I worry that the Richmond store is so customer-less all the time. I stop in a couple times a month, and I'm always surprised that no one is there. On Saturdays, they definitely have more customers, but they don't seem to be die-hard fans. Even 20 people spending 4 dollars is just not a lot of sales.
Re: the salt thing - yes, the catalog has turned into a campaign stump for whatever the hot issue of the minute is. He's off the mark on his salt speech, for sure...
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I'm not too bothered by the absence of specialty salts....what I do find is that the catalog gets awful preachy, is too sentimental, and doesn't really have very interesting recipes in it. I'd probably buy more if the recipes were compelling and not so midwestern/homespun/folksy. Still, Ps is a good mail-order resource if you're in the boondocks without direct access to fresh spices.
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re: Hungry Celeste
I agree completely. I love Penzey's and they're got my business even if they start sending the catalog in cross-stich sampler format. However, I would probably buy a lot more if they would design a catalog that appealed more to my sensibilities.
But I do want to point out that I am near a large city and have access to tons of spice merchants and was shocked to find that Penzey's really does have the superior product.
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I have to totally, 100% AGREE with you on this. I bought a few gift sets this year for Christmas, and they included both catalogs from November and the "Holiday" one where Bill goes on his salt rampage.
I purchased a small "set" of different salts this past summer that included about 6 types of different salts. (the European one? Smelled/tasted like rotten eggs. YUCK) I disagree that they all "taste the same." Each one of those salts had a different complexity to it, and a different "taste." I found myself using LESS salt when I used these designer salts.
And the sugar content in some of their blends is just way too much. I would worry more about that then selling Gourmet Salts. I think it was complete cop-out on his part.











