Psst... We're working on the next generation of Chowhound! View >
HOME > Chowhound > France >
Jan 6, 2010 02:49 AM

Foodie seeking Restaurant Recommendations Paris

My boyfriend and I are travelling to Paris and staying in Montmartre for a long weekend. We were hoping for most of the meals to be within the Euro 40 pp range - but maybe one special dinner out within the 80pp mark. Any suggestions for some some restaurants - and maybe even what the best things to order might be? Ideally something not touristy and that gives a real flavour for good french food. Any help would be appreciated!

  1. Click to Upload a photo (10 MB limit)
  1. If drinking wine is important for your enjoyment of a meal, and if the EUR 40pp price points you stated is beverage included, this could be tricky, yet not impossible.
    The "JT" pair will probably chime in with a lot of good advice, albeit already given on this board a few hundreds of times.
    I don't dine out much, but the usual suspects that I know of which you could look into would be : la Régalade (closed Sa-Su), l'Ami Jean, maybe l'Epigramme, Fish, maybe Ze Kitchen Galerie (I don't like it, but some rave about it... if you plan to go, do lunch, not dinner), etc.
    This should be in your price range, without wine, and if you stay within the regular prix-fixe menus those places offer.

    About the special dinner: why not make it a special lunch, where you can have access to a few 3-star restaurants. Le Cinq has a 78EUR menu, Ledoyen a 80-something menu.
    If it has to be dinner, try La Grande Cascade and its 85 EUR menu, all included, both at lunch and dinner, everyday of the year.

    I mentioned La Régalade: I like to go there at least once during the peak of the truffle season every year. With a good bottle of wine and with truffle dishes, we never seem to pay more than 160-180EUR for 2. This could be your "splurge" dinner if you're going in a few weeks and want truffle. But this is elbow-to-elbow dining in a noisy atmosphere, with rushed service. Never had a problem with that (on the contrary, I prefer that to a good but dead empty restaurant!), but some do.

    5 Replies
    1. re: olivierb

      Truffle at Régalade -- let's do that! Although I tried a couple of years ago and it was not a great Régalade time. You're basically better off asking them to shave some truffle on what you like in their regular menu, which is what they do anyway. Say, on the duck. The pot au feu de foie gras de canard was a great great thing.

      1. re: souphie

        I agree that once, I had so-so truffle, but this was early January. Last year, the time we went in February, it was truly excellent.

        The pot-au-feu de foie gras with truffle is indeed awesome, somewhat decadent. The ususal foie-gras-stuffed chicken that they seem to have all year long on the menu is also very nice with the truffle stuffing + truffled albufera sauce.
        Truffled scrambled eggs are classic and well done, too... With the scallops, they only shave some truffle on it. Not bad, but when doing this at home I like to put the truffle inside too, and let it rest before cooking so that the scallops are "imprinted" with the truffle taste...
        And indeed, the duckling for two with truffles is fantastic!

        Hmm, where's my phone now?

        1. re: olivierb

          See now I am just miserable... I love foie gras and truffles even better.. but I am in Paris from Sat - Monday and it seems that Regalade is closed all three days! I am happy to do a splurge lunch instead of dinner... so do you think Le Cinq or Ledoyen would be better than La Grand Cascade?

          I have booked Chez L'Ami Jean for Saturday Lunch. And hopefully one of these places is open on Sunday!

          Definately up for wine with my meal... and the budget I was looking at was excluding drinks... so if there are other options I'd love to know about them!

          1. re: parrat01

            Le Cinq and la Grande Cascade are open on sundays. Le Cinq has more to offer than la Cascade -- because of all the palace circus, but la Cascade is pretty awesome, and you can have dinner there.

            Isn't Régalade open monday nights?

            I don't think there's better in your budget. For the sake of it, I would mention one of the traditional ones -- Denise, Quincy, Joséphine, l'Auberge Bressanne... (CAJ and Régalade are bistronomiques more than traditional). As Olivier says, the same one I'm always recommending day in, day out...

            1. re: parrat01

              La Regalade is open on Mondays. The experience there is quite similar as the one at CAJ. Maybe the latter is trying to be more refined, but they play in the same league: very good and hearty for a reasonable place, but with the possible drawbacks of rushed service, lack of space, etc.

              To be honest, I haven't done the lunch menus at Ledoyen and LGC (only ALC dinners), but I believe La Grande Cascade is probably slightly less impressive/good. If I was Bibendum (working on it, but still have a long way to go), I'd rate LGC at 2*, and Ledoyen and Le Cinq as 3* (in reality LGC is 1*, Le Cinq 2* and Ledoyen 3*).
              That said, I just checked: Ledoyen is not open on weekends, and only reopens mondays for dinner, so this one goes out of your list. I'd go to Le Cinq if I were you (open on Sunday, as LGC).

              But once again, there obviously are a lot more options than that, but I'm trying not to speak of places I haven't visited (and God knows I love to speak about what I don't know... I should have been a journalist).

      2. The "JT pair" is cute; I'll take being jumelled with Julot as a complement any day, Olivier.

        As a matter of fact, I will offer up some that fit your category from; also my rule is to eat lunch early and often and do salads, cheese, etc at nite.

        Le Clocher Periere,
        Le Restaurant de Philippe et Jean Pierre
        Opus Vins,
        La Cantine du Troquet,
        Au Gout Dujour
        Firmin, le Barbier and lots more,

        1. We;re recently back from Paris and, on the inexpensive end, had a very good meal at la Victoire, near the Bank of France. We also had very good lunches off hours (2:00 or so, thus avoiding the lines) at Le Zinc Honore, in the place du marcheee honoree, which you can never find on any map, and at Chartier. These are all well, well within 40 euros. On the more expensisve side, we had a lovely meal at les Ombres on the roof of the Branly, with a view of the Eifel Tower. We also had a good lunch at Georges on the roof of the Pompidou, but I would only go there on a day when the view made the price reasonable.

          5 Replies
          1. re: dcbbq

            Hmm... wow lots of choices! Also someone recomended a place called Le Moulin de La Galette. Has anyone been there... what is the food like? I am checking the options for Le Cinq... as well as seeing what else I can get booked in.

            1. re: parrat01

              Regarding Moulin, it's fine if you want photo ops; the lunch menu is quite reasonable at 17E. In that area my choice would be Le Maquis, a bit more expensive but worth it.

              1. re: parrat01

                I would not recommend Le Moulin: most recently in Sept 07:
                "lunch formula (2 courses) for 17 and lunch menu (3) for 25, one at dinner at 42 and a degustation one for 60, a la carte running 51-75 €....... each taking one of the two entrees, mains & desserts. The good news: the desserts were fabulous (a parfait glacé with Grand Marnier and a chocolate Opera with sorbet – first class). The mains were blah and made with “cheap” products – a tasteless pink trout with a ‘hollandaise sauce” made with gelatin and awful Basmati rice and an annoying fricassee of turkey bits with chestnuts. But with the firsts we grasped the problem: her two brochettes of raw shrimp (one with a fluffy tumeric sauce) were wonderful, but my soup of coco beans was again chintzy and blah – so here, it’s either heaven or hell, there’s no purgatory. Bill 81 € for two.

                1. re: John Talbott

                  You were one of many disapointed with le Moulin when it opened. But several of you, like FR Gaudry, went back later and found the restaurant much better, from what I read. Wouldn't it be worth trying again?

                  1. re: souphie

                    "Wouldn't it be worth trying again?"
                    Pas moi mon ami, ask the Belle Sophe.

            2. Just got back from Paris and had two great meals at reasonable prices at Les Papilles(in the 6e) and Le Gaigne(Marais).
              Les Papilles had a great lunch special for 22 Euros for main course and a fabulous dessert. Of course, we added on wine(you can choose a fabulous bottle there and they'll charge you a small corkage fee to serve it) which was a must to go with the Pot au Feu Magret de Canard. I was completely blown away by the Pannacotta/Mandarine dessert which was served with a frothy salty caramel mousse on top.
              At Le Gaigne, a tiny restaurant in the Marais, you must reserve a place as I think they only seat about 12-14 people. They had a tasting menu with wine for 57 Euros which was also delicious. The meal was actually light too, not in taste, but no heavy creamy sauces that can kill you by the 5th course.....
              Both are highly recommended. We also tried l'Epi Dupin in the 6e near the Bon Marche which had a 3 course meal for 33 euros. Not much else cheaper than that. The meal was also light and delicious but I must admit I was a bit hungry at 3am(glutton that I am!).
              Good luck. What a great city. Bring your walking shoes----makes the foie gras and wine worth it!

              4 Replies
              1. re: Mandarine

                The temptation with Le Moulin was the fact that it is in Montmartre and open on a Sunday. So I was thinking that on Saturday - I could go to CAJ for lunch - do something a little more swanky at night... then perhaps have a few drinks and maybe even go dancing that night. So given I was thinking of a relatively late night on Sat - I thought it would be easy to do something local (in Montmartre) on Sudnay night. For Sunday lunch I was thinking Le Reminet. (Unfortunately, Le Gaigne is no longer open on Sundays)! Monday lunch I have booked La Cinq and then head back to London Monday evening. So still need to work out where to eat my Sat / Sunday dinners. Any recommendations in Montmartre?

                1. re: parrat01

                  I just had a memorable dinner at Table 28, thanks to many hounds' encouragement on this board. I absolutely loved it. The meat of choice was agneau, which I'm normally not a fan of, but I sure stuffed my face. I actually could have lived off the salad and dessert alone. It's not quite Montmartre but it's a neighboring neighborhood. Sunday dinner choices in Montmartre can be drab, but le Doudingue near Abbesses is open. I owe that great rec to Parigi.

                  1. re: schtroumpfette

                    Re: Table 28. Works as long as the OP gets there before March as it has been sold, see John Talbot's thread on subject.

                    1. re: PhilD

                      And Daniel Rose should be away for a week+ starting January 12th.

              2. One place on the Butte Montmartre with reliable inventive food (and wine) is Le Café Qui Parle.
                24, rue Caulaincourt, 01 4606 0688

                1 Reply
                1. re: Parigi

                  Correct and agreed and the couple who run it are a breath of fresh air.