Was back in New Orleans for the first time in a few years. Visited during New Years weekend and was lucky that some of my favorites were closed on the 1st because we were able to try a "third choice," the Upperline. This place is fantastic. We were a little concerned when seated in the front room-- a bit dusty, with a 1980's vibe. Needs to be freshened up somehow. And our server did not pay us much mind; in fact she was very sour-faced and barely spoke, even when we had questions. But once the food started coming... Oh my! The highlight of the trip. It is pretty straight forward creole with a bit of cane river country cooking, but everything was spot on and incredible. Even basics like bread pudding and pecan pie were revelations. This chef has some kind of magic and I would gladly put up with sour service to eat anything he makes again. Kind of how people felt about the soup nazi.
Also loved the contemporary take on cajun at Cochon. Comfort food at its best, and you can get a great bourbon selection or a well made sazerac. btw, have been trying out the cookbook and it is really good. So much reminds me of my Louisiana grandma's food.
A cheap find is the Besch restaurant in the WWII museum. Really good lunch at amazing prices. Still thining about the crab salad with fried avacado.