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Hong Kong - need recs

l
Lau Dec 5, 2009 03:09 PM

I'm going to go to HK in a week and I wanted to get some food recs, I've been to HK many times (last time was 2 years ago), but I'm really going specifically this time to eat and ill be there from 12/13-12/18.

Food wise looking for chinese (I live in NY so not looking for european food or something like that). Language wise, language is not a problem (we're chinese), a friend who will be with me speaks fluent chinese and i can speak so so chinese although neither of us can read particularly well nor do either of us speak cantonese (we speak mandarin). Price is not an issue. We'll be staying in causeway bay, but happy to travel for food

In terms of what we are looking for:
- dim sum: i have no nostalgia about carts, i'd much prefer the best quality dim sum
- bbq meats: particularly would be interested in great cha siu and roast goose
- noodle places: wonton noodle soup, beef noodle soup, handmade noodles whatever is great
- cantonese seafood places
- chiu chow food
- dessert places
- bo zai fan
- anything else anyone recommends that is awesome

Also, if anyone has seen the anthony bourdain episode in HK, i'd love to try the places in tai po (the hand made noodle guy and the roast goose place) and the seafood place in the hawker center. Does anyone know the names, addresses / phone #s etc to those places? I'd really like to try them

  1. c
    coco9nyc Dec 5, 2009 05:48 PM

    Seafood place in hawker stand was Tung Po Seafood Restaurant, in the cooked food centre at 99 Java Road, North Point. Don't know about the others but may be on his website somewhere? He did also visit Bo Innovation which is excellent.

    Two places recommended for Cha Siu are:
    - West Villa, Lee Garden Two
    - The Manor, 400 Jaffe Road
    I have to admit I haven't visited either, I think I got these from a Time Out article.

    Noodles, there's a great place on the south side of Stanley St between Pottinger and Cochrane. Don't know the name but there's a line out the door at lunchtime.

    2 Replies
    1. re: coco9nyc
      l
      Lau Dec 6, 2009 08:47 AM

      yah good point, i should check his website

      Do you think Bo Innovation is worth it? it looked interesting, but alot of times i find these crazy fusion places be disappointing, but he is chinese and this is HK not the US so i guess i could be an interesting place to go

      1. re: Lau
        c
        coco9nyc Dec 7, 2009 02:07 AM

        I am a huge fan of Bo Innovation; every time I visit I taste something special and unique. It's not really fusion, the food is generally very Asian, just reworked in interesting ways (dried foie gras on tuna sashimi). Whether it's "worth it" depends on how much you think any meal is worth HK$1500+, but I have no hesitation in recommending it.

    2. skylineR33 Dec 5, 2009 06:45 PM

      You will get many recommendations in this thread :

      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/611837

      Just skip the Tai Po roast goose place in Anthony Bourdain's episode. It's name is Yat Lok (一樂) , phone number : 2656 4732. There are many roast goose places better than it in HK.

      4 Replies
      1. re: skylineR33
        Charles Yu Dec 5, 2009 07:51 PM

        Agree about the roast goose part. According to Fourseasons latest venture, the roast goose at the Manor was even better than Yung Kee's 4th floor! I had roast goose at Marriot's Man Ho which was excellent too!

        1. re: skylineR33
          l
          Lau Dec 6, 2009 08:30 AM

          ah thanks that very helpful as tai po isn't all that close and all things being equal it'd be alot easier to not have to go there although i am curious about the new territories as ive never really been there. btw have you happened to try that handmade noodle place he goes to? it looked amazing, just wanted to make sure its worth traveling all the way to tai po for?

          1. re: Lau
            Luther Dec 6, 2009 01:53 PM

            The noodles themselves are rather good (best displayed in the noodles with shrimp roe dish they eat on the show) but the standard noodle-containing dishes at that place (wonton noodles, fish ball noodles) are bland and not particularly good. I think I've had this discussion a couple times on CH so just do a search. There is some rather good dim sum in the food court with the noodle place if you do go.

            1. re: Lau
              skylineR33 Dec 6, 2009 08:42 PM

              That noodle place is called Ping Kee, phone number :2658 4567. It uses lard in it's shrimp roe wonton "Lo Mein" (蝦子雲吞撈麵), which is good especially if you like lard. But I think it does not worthsthe trip to go to Tai Po just for it ...

          2. m
            medgirl Dec 6, 2009 12:18 AM

            Hi Lau, I follow your posts on the NYC boards a lot. I'm travelling to HK tonight and have had a lot of help from HK hounds in formulating my eating plans. Top of the list for cha siu and dimsum is Fu Sing Sharkfin Seafood Restaurant in Wanchai (MTR Causeway Bay).

            1 Reply
            1. re: medgirl
              l
              Lau Dec 6, 2009 08:27 AM

              seems like everyone is mentioning that place, ill have to try it....im glad alot of this stuff is in wan chai / causeway bay...will make things easy for me

            2. FourSeasons Dec 6, 2009 05:10 AM

              Hi Lau:

              We "meet" again. How was your chow time in Singapore?

              Re Dim Sum: my favorites include Fu Sing at Wanchai and Victoria City at Citic. For better ambiance/service, try Golden Leaf at Conrad and Spring Moon at Peninsula.

              Re Char Siu: Fu Sing has very good char siu too. Or for cheaper yet specialist on char siu, you can try Joy Hing at Wanchai.

              Re Roast goose: best known is Yung Kee but I thought my recent experience at Manor was even better.

              Re Wonton noodle: there is very extensive discussion of this topic on a thread started by CharlesYu. Please use the search function. My favorite is actually in Macau if you are willing to take an hour ferry ride.

              Re beef hor: try Sister Wah at Tin Hau. It is walking distance from Causeway Bay. Don't forget to try the beef tendon, beef stomach and "Song Lam".

              Re Cantonese seafood places: depends what type of seafood you want to eat? High end,mid end? Tourist spots???

              Re Chiu Chow: for high end chiu chow dishes like chiu chow sharkfin, sea whelk, cold crabs, try Sheung Hing though the place is rundown and some complain poor service. For chiu chow comfort dishes with better ambiance and location, try Pak Loh in Causeway Bay.

              Re "awesome"- too many places, suggest you read the past threads. How many of you are traveling on this trip?

              8 Replies
              1. re: FourSeasons
                l
                Lau Dec 6, 2009 08:26 AM

                hey FourSeasons - I'm actually going to Singapore and HK (and taipei) next week, it just happens that i was busy with work, so i hadn't had a chance to do my research on HK yet like i had with Singapore. So i'll report back once i've eaten everything in sight and returned to the US haha.

                as far as seafood goes touristy spots are of no interest to me unless they just happen to be amazing, i'm basically looking for the seafood prepared excellent. That doesn't necessary mean the most expensive either. I'm just looking for a place that executes great. Sorry if thats not that descriptive, but what i mean really is that one of cantonese food's strongest points in my opinion has always been the preparation of fresh seafood, so i'm just looking for a great chef, decor / ambiance doesn't matter to me at all. I'd be just as happy (maybe happier) eating in a rundown busy restaurant than i would be in a fancy banquet hall

                there are three of us traveling, but we know alot of people in HK, so there will likely be more than that at several meals (particularly something like a seafood meal, where it would be family style with the more dishes the better)

                I know my "awesome" request is very broad, but if there is anything that you recommend i really should try while i'm in HK please tell (remember i'm coming from the US, so i'm always interested in things i really cant get there)

                Thanks for all the recs, i'm so excited

                1. re: Lau
                  FourSeasons Dec 6, 2009 11:04 PM

                  Hi Lau:

                  It really depends on what seafood dish you have in mind. If you want the "best", different restaurants excel in different dishes so it is difficult to recommend one for such purpose. Most of my favorites are considered politically incorrect or too exotic in US so not sure if you have that in mind; and they can be very expensive. Most tourists go to Lamma Island or Lei Yue Moon. For most seafood comfort dishes, I will recommend instead a reasonable priced seafood restaurant (though it is more than just seafood, the porridge and chicken dish were awesome) called Sang Kee at Wanchai : http://www.sangkee.com.hk/

                  Your schedule also coincides the "hairy crab" season. I don't think you can get hairy crab or decent Shanghai/Hanzhou cuisine in NYC so maybe of some interest to you. If budget is not a concern, you may try Ting Heung Lau for the crab roe sharkfin (if you want to be politically correct, the try the crab roe noodle instead) and smoked yellow fish. I wrote very brief review yesterday on this thread (at the bottom and there are many restaurants recommended there as well) http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/519768 . Or if you want to stay in HK island, Ye Shanghai at Pacific Place or Snow Garden at Causeway Bay are pretty decent too. You should order the whole crab and enjoyed it slowly.

                  If you can take spicy food, I will recommend Da Ping Huo, a Si chuan private kitchen, a personal favorite, and it is not a problem for a very small group since the tasting menu is fixed.

                  1. re: FourSeasons
                    l
                    Lau Dec 7, 2009 06:19 AM

                    i've been to lamma island, it was actually pretty decent, i was surprised given the touristy nature of it. I don't particularly care about politically correct or too exotic per se although i dont always think those are worth it depends on what it is. Sang Kee looks like a good rec, any specific dishes you like?

                    hairy crab is also another good idea...i think ive only had it once in my life and it was so long ago that i dont remember it

                    good point on the sichuan private kitchens, my friend who is originally from sichuan took me to one or two of them last time i was there (they loved her b/c she can speak the dialect) and the food was very good, i totally forgot about those places and i do like sichuan food

                    1. re: Lau
                      FourSeasons Dec 7, 2009 11:09 PM

                      Lamma Island is just average; I went there 2 weeks ago because my business partners wanted to entertain oversea guests. But it surely will beat the best seafood you find in Chinatown NYC.

                      The type of seafood I had in mind is sharkfin, abalone, sea cucumber, sea maw 花膠, sea whelk 螺片 etc etc. I assume not your type of food based on your writing.

                      I have not been back to Sang Kee for last 2-3 years. I can't remember too much details but their seafood comfort dishes are all pretty good; the dishes there that I can remember turn out not to be seafood at all but baked chicken 鹽焗雞 and porridge.

                      Yeah, you should try hairy crab then. The roe is the best part. And if you go to Fu Sing, then order the crab roe xiao long bao (in season now with roe from hairy crab); 100x better than Din Tai Fung.

                      1. re: FourSeasons
                        FourSeasons Dec 8, 2009 04:42 AM

                        Re Sang Kee: I just remember: the "minced dace fish saute" 煎藕餅 is one of their signature dishes. If you do go there, you may want to try this dish.

                        1. re: FourSeasons
                          l
                          Lau Dec 8, 2009 05:07 AM

                          interesting ill have to try hairy crab, i think ive only had it once a very long time ago and i honestly don't remember it, but it is very famous and it sounds good, i love crab roe and the xiao long bao sound great....not available at all in nyc although i eat at DTF in LA sometimes (from LA)

                2. re: FourSeasons
                  m
                  mikey8811 Dec 6, 2009 10:11 PM

                  Hi Four Seasons

                  Where exactly is Manor - I would like to try it when in HK next too. Is there an OpenRice link to it and what would you order? Is it a hole-in-the-wall joint?

                  Thanks

                  1. re: mikey8811
                    FourSeasons Dec 6, 2009 10:37 PM

                    Hi mikey8811:

                    Manor is a Cantonese restaurant in Causeway Bay, not hole in the wall. Yes, I recall it was reviewed in openrice, just type "Manor" over there. I wrote a very brief review on this thread yesterday (at the very bottom): http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/519768

                3. l
                  Lau Mar 12, 2010 05:20 PM

                  hey - thanks everyone for all the recs, here's my report:
                  http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/694272

                  1. dannyrogue Mar 15, 2010 10:27 PM

                    Lau,
                    so I've got your first two covered.
                    Dim sum = Luk Yu Tea House . . . no carts, no nostalgia, just deliciousness
                    Cha siu & goose = Golden China Restaurant (金华烧腊) . . . so good

                    I was actually just in Hong Kong for an eating marathon and can make some solid recommendations for sure. You can check out my detailed account here: http://www.chinatravel.net/feature/Hu...

                    Happy eats . . .

                    5 Replies
                    1. re: dannyrogue
                      l
                      Lau Mar 16, 2010 04:55 AM

                      thanks although a bit late, i actually went in december, but if you want to see where i went here's my reviews: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/694272

                      btw i like luk yu, but i don't think its the best place ive ever been, ive been to some places i liked better although it was a few years ago, so i can't remember what they are called...the place i went to called tsui hang was sort of a dud (decent, would be considered good in the US, but just ok for hk

                      )

                      haven't been to golden china...i believe this is the place you were referring to http://www.openrice.com/english/resta...

                      looks good...ill try it next time i'm in town. Try fu sing, i was amazed at how good the cha siu was there (see my review)

                      1. re: Lau
                        buttertart Mar 16, 2010 07:28 AM

                        Didn't you get any goose when you were on your trip? We had it 3x in a week the trip before last (once in DShanghai, twice in 2 days in Beijing). God I wish the BBQ places here (NYC) had goose all the time...have heard it shows up occasionally but have yet to stumble on it.

                        1. re: buttertart
                          l
                          Lau Mar 16, 2010 07:44 AM

                          no dude i was so pissed about that! i love goose too blehhhhh

                          literally the day i was supposed to have goose was at manor and that was one of the last meals i had there...i sorta got screwed b/c this one dude that i mentioned in the review kind of screwed me on a few meals

                          1. re: Lau
                            buttertart Mar 16, 2010 08:22 AM

                            Terrible when that happens. I'm still jealous of your trip! Those xlb look wonderful.

                            1. re: buttertart
                              l
                              Lau Mar 16, 2010 08:33 AM

                              trip was still awesome

                    2. l
                      Lau Jun 5, 2010 12:03 PM

                      hey guys - i'm coming back 6/23-6/26 after i go to shanghai...i've got a decent amt of recs to still cover for last time, but any new recs are welcome. I'm literally only going to HK to a see a few friends and to eat, so i'm figuring out exactly what i'm eating for every meal right now haha

                      24 Replies
                      1. re: Lau
                        buttertart Jun 5, 2010 02:23 PM

                        Roast goose, man, roast goose. As many times as possible.

                        1. re: buttertart
                          l
                          Lau Jun 5, 2010 02:42 PM

                          haha that is top of my list...i got totally screwed last time at Manor b/c i didn't realize you had to reserve a roast goose a day ahead of time; had to substitute with roast suckling pig (which was awesome nonetheless)

                          1. re: Lau
                            buttertart Jun 5, 2010 02:47 PM

                            Love suckling pig but goose is so much harder to come by. I want to know all about this trip, you and bigjeff are making me so jealous!

                            1. re: Lau
                              Peech Jun 6, 2010 05:33 PM

                              forget Yung Kee for goose... it's overrated. I actually did a taste test with a hole-in-the-wall on the next street and we all ended up preferring the other one.
                              http://chi-he-wan-le.blogspot.com/201...

                              Or are you thinking of going to Shum Tseng for goose?

                              1. re: Peech
                                l
                                Lau Jun 6, 2010 07:11 PM

                                well i actually hadn't decided where to go for goose. FourSeasons recommended Manor, which was where I tried to get it last time, but i screwed up and didn't reserve one, so i may go back there.

                                What is your favorite place for goose?

                                1. re: Lau
                                  buttertart Jun 7, 2010 06:24 AM

                                  Do you always have to reserve it in HK? In Shanghai and Beijing no reservations were necessary.

                                   
                                   
                                  1. re: buttertart
                                    l
                                    Lau Jun 7, 2010 07:23 AM

                                    depends on the place, but generally its a good idea

                                  2. re: Lau
                                    h
                                    hong_kong_foodie Jun 26, 2010 06:50 AM

                                    Just wanted to second the recommendation for Manor - the goose is very good. I also agree with Peech that Yung Kee is overrated for its goose, unless you are VIP and they prepare something special for you.

                                    1. re: hong_kong_foodie
                                      FourSeasons Jun 26, 2010 08:16 AM

                                      I actually think the goose at Yung Kee is very good if you order the whole goose on the 4th floor. (the previous time I order a partial portion, which turns out not as good as when I ordered the whole goose for a bigger group) It is not inferior to Manor, whose version is also very outstanding.

                                      1. re: FourSeasons
                                        l
                                        Lau Jun 26, 2010 02:23 PM

                                        actually just got back i did end up going to yung kee b/c the place my friend normally goes to was closed until 6/30 b/c the chef was sick

                                        i took a lot of pics this time, ill write up a full report soon

                                        1. re: Lau
                                          buttertart Jun 26, 2010 02:40 PM

                                          The goose was all you had hoped for, I presume?

                                          1. re: buttertart
                                            l
                                            Lau Jun 26, 2010 03:11 PM

                                            well it was good, but didn't live up to the hype (yung kee is very famous), the last time i had roast goose was with a friends family at some place way out on the kowloon side (they are like super local) and that place was definitely better. I'll get into details when i write it up

                                            1. re: Lau
                                              FourSeasons Jun 27, 2010 02:43 AM

                                              Lau:
                                              Did you order the whole or partial portion of the goose in Yung Kee? Which floor?

                                              1. re: FourSeasons
                                                M_Gomez Jun 27, 2010 05:52 AM

                                                FS, do you find it ironic that a well-known restaurant like Yung Kee deemed it "acceptable" to serve different quality of roast goose to VIPs versus "common" customers, and still get away with it? Better quality ones on the 4th floor versus inferior quality ones in floors 1, 2 & 3, and not get censured, even by self-respecting CHs and foodies? As a paying customer, I would have felt unfairly treated!

                                                1. re: M_Gomez
                                                  h
                                                  hong_kong_foodie Jun 27, 2010 07:51 AM

                                                  I agree. I think it's absolutely ridiculous and appalling that a restaurant like Yung Kee cannot be consistent with the one thing they're most famous for. And if you think the roast goose on floors 2 & 3 is bad, just try the take-out version from floor 1 -- it was so bad I literally got chastised for bringing it home.

                                                  1. re: hong_kong_foodie
                                                    ankimo Jul 12, 2010 01:37 PM

                                                    i got roast goose from Yung Kee floor 1 and was disappointed

                                                    1. re: ankimo
                                                      M_Gomez Jul 12, 2010 06:36 PM

                                                      Sorry to hear that. But there's one thing which Yung Kee does consistently well though - their century egg with pickled ginger. The best in the world, and still exactly the same after all those decades I'd had them.

                                                      Now, if only they'd done the same with their roast goose ...

                                                      1. re: M_Gomez
                                                        Charles Yu Jul 12, 2010 07:25 PM

                                                        FYI, nowadays, one can get ' Taiwanese lead free runny soft yolk thousand year eggs ' that is almost as good as the Yung Kee version from most Chinese super markets. In Hong Kong even City Super carries them!

                                                        1. re: Charles Yu
                                                          M_Gomez Jul 12, 2010 08:38 PM

                                                          Thank you,Charles, I'll get some to try soon.

                                                  2. re: M_Gomez
                                                    FourSeasons Jun 27, 2010 08:56 AM

                                                    Gomez:
                                                    I am not comparing with the quality of 1-3 floor or take out counter. And I am not a VIP guest there either. I dined on the 4th floor both times in the last 1 year; once with a small group of 4 persons so ordered a small portion which I was not so impressed; the next time with a big group of 13-15 persons with a budget close to HK$10k which we included the whole goose and it was outstanding, just like what we expect from the past standard of Yung Kee.

                                                    1. re: FourSeasons
                                                      buttertart Jun 27, 2010 04:34 PM

                                                      How much was it for the whole goose? My Christmas one cost about USD 75.00, uncooked, frozen, last year.

                                                      1. re: buttertart
                                                        h
                                                        hong_kong_foodie Jun 27, 2010 04:58 PM

                                                        I don't remember how much it costs at Yung Kee, but I paid HKD $240 for half a roast goose at Manor just a couple of months ago.

                                                        1. re: hong_kong_foodie
                                                          buttertart Jun 28, 2010 06:00 AM

                                                          Seems to me it goes for much less in the PRC, had it in Shanghai and Beijing in 2007/2008 and a roast breast was not at all expensive. And was quite wonderful.

                                                    2. re: M_Gomez
                                                      Charles Yu Jun 27, 2010 02:11 PM

                                                      Isn't this type of 'irregular' practices pretty common in Japanese sushi restaurants too? Regular/special customers often get special treatments from the chef especially when ordering Omakase?! Such is life!!

                              2. l
                                Lau Nov 7, 2010 04:58 PM

                                so i've finally posted all of my hong kong reviews on my blog, i've also posted them on chowhound, but all the pics are on my blog
                                http://www.lauhound.com/category/hong...

                                8 Replies
                                1. re: Lau
                                  m
                                  muttley Nov 7, 2010 06:54 PM

                                  agree totally with peech - yat lok on stanley street has been a fav of mine ever since a friend convinced me to try it a couple of years ago. the roast pork is also pretty good but the trick is to go early (before 12pm) to get the goose and pork when it's just been roasted.

                                  have not been back to yung kee but do agree that the best i had there was when i ate on the 4th floor and they reserved a "special" goose for me...if i heard them correctly, it was a "virgin" but it did taste spectular and totally different from the normal ones downstairs.

                                  1. re: muttley
                                    l
                                    Lau Nov 8, 2010 01:39 PM

                                    i've heard of yat lok, i think its on my list of restaurants to try

                                    try the roast pork at fu sing, its unbelievable

                                    1. re: Lau
                                      j
                                      jumas Nov 12, 2010 08:58 AM

                                      hi Lau, been reading this thread with great interest. May I know when's the correct time to visit Fu Sing to try their Roast Pork? Cos I'm interested to try their Dim Sum too.

                                      1. re: jumas
                                        l
                                        Lau Nov 12, 2010 09:15 AM

                                        what do you mean?

                                        they have their roast pork all day, so you can get it at dim sum or dinner. it is called cha siu in cantonese or cha shao in mandarin, here are the characters 叉燒.

                                        if you're going in for dim sum i would a) suggest making a reservation and b) suggest going in around 11 if its a weekday to avoid the lunch crowd. they don't speak the greatest english, but the menu is translated to english, so you should be fine....id rec basically everything i got, check my blog

                                        1. re: Lau
                                          Charles Yu Nov 12, 2010 02:23 PM

                                          For B-B-Q pork/char siu, they indeed do 'make to order' ones, all day round. But for the crispy skin roast pork, the answer is NO!!
                                          From what I gathered, they make the bulk of the crispy pork in the morning in time to cater for the morning/lunchtime dim sum crowd. There's a chance ordering that dish in the evening could be 'remnants'. As such overall quality might not be at its peak and texture less crisp. (as was the case when I had a chowmeet with a number of NYC and European hounds early on in the year!. Skin way less appealing than the luncheon dim sum version! )

                                          1. re: Charles Yu
                                            l
                                            Lau Nov 12, 2010 03:03 PM

                                            which crispy pork are you talking about?

                                            火肉? http://eatbma.blogspot.com/2007/04/lei-garden-chijmes.html

                                            or

                                            the crispy suckling pig? (forgot what its called in chinese) http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninjahel...

                                            love both, must try it there as i really really like fu sing

                                            1. re: Lau
                                              Charles Yu Nov 12, 2010 05:32 PM

                                              I am referring to Fu Sing's famous ' charcoal fire roasted crispy '3 layer' pork belly' served in bite size cubes. At par with those served by Wan Chai Lei Garden or the Manor.

                                              1. re: Charles Yu
                                                l
                                                Lau Nov 12, 2010 10:37 PM

                                                ohhhhhh ok, need to book a flight back asap

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