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REVIEW: Los Chilangos, Anaheim

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(Originally posted at http://mangelorange.wordpress.com/200...

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You know, to look at the menus of soi-disant “Mexican” restaurants around here, you’d think the entire nation of Mexico subsisted on tired, overcooked meat, rice, beans and tortillas. You would think that not a single vegetable besides peppers and onions (for the so-authentic fajitas, of course) was grown in the entire country.

Well, it just isn’t so. Mexicans subsist PRIMARILY on vegetables. Mexican madres make their niños eat their vegetables the same was American mothers do. The vegetables might be a little bit different, but they’re there.

And so every now and then, when I feel the need for vegetables cooked Mexican-style, I head down to El Rincón Chilango on 17th Street in Santa Ana and get myself a mushroom quesadilla or maybe a huarache (a large, sandal-shaped tortilla-like object) topped with nopales (cactus paddles). I usually get a strange look (why is the white guy ordering this stuff? does he actually know what huitlacoche is?).

Today, though, I didn’t. My Spanish-language order of a squash-blossom quesadilla and a huitlacoche (“Mexican truffle”, i.e., the black mushrooms that grow on certain ears of corn) sope must have done the job convincing the waiter that I really do love Mexico City-style antojitos, because after I finished eating, I got a flyer about a new place, run by a family member, with a similar menu.

When I got home tonight, my wife expressed a desire for Mexican food, and since I wasn’t averse to trying a new place, off we went to northwest Anaheim.

Los Chilangos (literally, “the guys from Mexico City”) has been open about two months, according to José, the owner. It’s in one of those depressing-looking L-shaped mini-malls, this time on Lincoln Ave. a couple of blocks west of Euclid, in a shopping centre with a Subway, a very shiny barbershop and a Chinese place. Six tables line the wall and the kitchen takes up the other half of the restaurant. Mexican percussion instruments up on the wall provide the décor, it’s brightly lit, and it is spotlessly clean.

The menu is, like its sister restaurant, a litany of all the antojitos Mexico City loves: huaraches (large, sandal-shaped platforms made out of masa, the dough from which tortillas are made), sopes (shallow bowls made out of masa), quesadillas (in this case, like long, folded-over tacos that have been filled with cheese and your ingredients of choice and fried crisp), tlacoyos (smaller versions of the huarache, with the ingredients stuffed inside), pambazos (bread rolls dipped in chile sauce and griddled) and the heart-stopping alambre (carne asada, ham, bacon, onions and red pepper griddled together and topped with melted mozzarella cheese, which gets served with a large stack of hand-made tortillas).

We ordered a quesadilla with squash blossoms (for comparison’s sake), a pambazo with potato and chorizo and a huarache al pastor with nopales (cactus paddles).

The quesadilla was quite good, but a little heavy on the lettuce and sour cream. It was served with a thin green salsa which went nicely with the fairly delicate flavour of the squash blossoms. The quesillo (string cheese) inside was nicely tangy and had appealingly-long strings, like really good mozzarella on pizza. I did like my lunch quesadilla at El Rincón Chilango better, but only because there were more squash blossoms in my lunch than in my dinner. I do love squash blossoms…

The pambazo, however, was much, much better than El Rincón Chilango’s. Surprisingly light, like a chile-head’s twisted idea of French toast, with a nice spread of beans, potato and chorizo. As much as I like El Rincón Chilango, their potato-and-chorizo pambazo tastes mostly like potato and not enough like chorizo.

It takes talent to cook nopales, because they ooze like okra, and you run the risk of serving a pile of green snot to your guests. Los Chilangos did a great job on the nopales, and they really added a necessary note to the chile-marinated pork in the huarache.

Los Chilangos, like El Rincón Chilango, sells menudo (spicy tripe soup), posole (pork and hominy soup) and barbacoa de borrego (pit-roasted lamb) Friday through Sunday. I haven’t been to try it, but I’m thinking about it, because while all the posole in the world tries to live up to my wife’s family’s recipe, there’s precious little bad posole in the world… and I love barbacoa and the consomé with garbanzos that usually comes with it.

Service is genuinely friendly. I think perhaps Jose was the only person working in the whole place, but he came over to chat with us and with the table that came in after us. He got my wife an English menu, answered questions, and played with our daughter, who took immediately to him and spent the time he was back in the kitchen looking for him.

While Los Chilangos isn’t as big or as popular (yet) as as its sister in Santa Ana, Los Chilangos is a worthy addition to our city. Next time you’re looking for vegetables in a Mexican restaurant, hop off the 5 at Lincoln and head a bit west, and enjoy.

Los Chilangos
1830 W. Lincoln Ave.
Anaheim, CA 92801
(714) 999-5515

El Rincón Chilango
1133 W. 17th St.
Santa Ana, CA 92706
(714) 836-5096

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Los Chilangos
1830 W Lincoln Ave, Anaheim, CA 92801

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  1. Thank you for this! My wife and I visited Los Chilangos today and were absolutely delighted. We had a variety of things and everything was delicious.

    I would re-emphasize that this place is incredibly clean and "user-friendly". Strongly recommended for anyone - particularly for Anaheim Anglos who would like to broaden their Mexican repertoire a bit.

    1. What are the hours for Los Chilangos

      1 Reply
      1. re: yangster

        I'm not sure, honestly. You could call and check.

      2. Here's Gustavo Arellano's review from the OC Weekly from years ago. Just recently heard him mention the place on KCRW's Good Food.
        http://www.ocweekly.com/2004-08-12/un...

        1 Reply
        1. re: E Eto

          Yes... El Rincón Chilango has been reviewed a bunch of times. This is the new branch in Anaheim, which hasn't really been open long enough to get any press.

        2. Thanks to this review, I had Los Chilangos stored away in the memory banks knowing I had to be in Anaheim for a convention this week. With the dearth of decent options inside and outside the center, it is always a challenge to properly feed myself so I have enough energy to last all day but not have to succumb to bad and expensive food. It was raining Tuesday night after the show closed. Los Chilangos was a great haven to relax and wait for the rain to stop before making the drive back up to LA.

          Warm friendly service. I dragged a friend from the midwest with me. Someone with limited exposure to Mexican food, I even had to explain what is carnitas. But adventuresome and open minded, a great dining companion.

          We split the mushroom quesidilla. She got the carnitas gordita. I got the alambre. she was thrilled they carried mexican coke with real sugar. I got a mamey shake. A basket of chips and salsa came complimentary.

          We loved the quesidilla. I could easily eat a couple by myself. I like mushrooms anyway and all the ingredients were well balanced. I didn't get a chance to try her Gordita since it disappeared pretty quickly.

          The alambre came with 5 large homemade tortillas. Don't be in a hurry if you order this dish as they make the tortillas fresh to order. I must have been starving more than I thought since I finished the whole thing and using only four tortillas. Although very rich and filling with the meats and cheese, I didn't find it greasy at all. There was no puddle of oil or anything. Heck, there are plenty of diners out there that could learn how to griddle up meats properly from these guys. The bits were cooked through crispy but not burnt. You could still taste the individual flavors of each meat. The tortilla was just perfect for wrapping it up and eating like a taco. Washing everything down with cool sips of the mamey shake was just the perfect decompression. My friend was expensing the meal and was laughing at how it was going to be the cheapest and tastiest meal of her trip. Only $22.26 for our entire order. Not that I ever complain about a Morton's steak on someone else's dime but I do love just relaxing in small homey places like this too.

          I put in a separate order of alambre and a huitlacoche tlacoyo to go for my wife. Sadly I have no idea how the tlacoyo tastes as my wife ate it all the next day before I had a chance to tell her to save me a bite. Apparently she liked it even reheated. She said the alambre was pretty good reheated asides from the usual issues of reheating something with melted cheese on top.

          Oh, someone asked about hours. They're open at 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. M to Sat. Sundays, they're open at 8 a.m. They're about 3.5 miles from the convetion center. Easy to go up Katella then Euclid. Or right off the 5 Euclid exit. They serve breakfast too, depending on your schedule, I'd recommend going there for breakfast before a show. At least that's what I'd do. Heck better than anything around the center. Then again, plenty of options up and down Euclid too.

          Pictures of the Gordita, Alambre and Quesidilla.

           
           
           
          1. das,

            thanks for the review. finally had a chance to leave chino hills and head down to los chilangos. my wife and i polished off:

            1. huitlacoche tlacoyo;
            2. squash blossom and chicharrones in the quesadilla;
            3. shrimp (a la diablo)
            4. alambre

            and
            5. mamey shake, to go.

            in short, everything was very good. we will definitely make the drive back to try their soup, and the barbacoa...

            1. Four friends and I came for a late dinner about 5 minutes before closing (9 PM on a Satuday) and they stayed open for us and were super nice about it.

              Everything was pretty great, and I especially liked the alambre and huarache with chicharron. Horchata was one of the best I've had; a smoothie with banana, strawberry, and coconut was equally delicious. 50-cent churros were freshly fried and clinched an awesome dinner.

              Looking forward to coming back for more.