Goldin's Smoked Meat at Home
I acquired a deckle point brisket of Goldin's to try this weekend.
It was a triangular, piece, like a skate wing, about 1" thick, with no upper/lower division. The cost was $27.50 for 2.8 lb on my scale, Foodsaver wrapped.
I simmered the bag for 3 hours in a le Creuset oval dutch oven.
At the same time I simmered a 3.6 lb Dunn's smoked brisket in a Batali dutch oven. The cost of this cut was $18.90. It was well marbled,whereas the Goldin's has no exposed surface.
I tasted both in thin sliceslate Saturday night. The Dunn's was cooked perfectly, and had good flavor. It was unctuous.
The Goldin's had better spicing, even a little smoke, but was too tough to seriously serve, without a machine slicer. There was sinew throughout, and the bottom layer of at was distinctly gristly. I went back to the Dunn's for seconds, and I avoided the Goldin's while still hungry.
I put both aside to reconsider Sunday night.
I added a coating of smoked Spanish paprika to the Dunn's, as it was missing some of the spiciness of Goldin's. I wrapped both in double layers of aluminum foil, and put Goldin's into a 280F oven for an hour; Dunn's into a 280F oven for 25 minutes.
Both were sliced, sandwiched, and received French's Deli mustard.
Dunn's was meltingly tender, with good flavor, and a good hit of smoke and hotness that lasted.
Goldin's was not so tough as before, but still challenging and chewy. The flavor and spicing were superb.
I found it perplexing. Obviously well cured but from a tough old cow.
If it was not so expensive, I would buy another, to prove myself wrong. But it is expensive, hard to get, and apparently inconsistent.
Photo #1 Dunn's in cryovac
Photo #2 Dunn's on rye
Photo#3 Goldin's cut at thickest point
Photo#4 Goldin's on Breadhouse Austrian
For a photo of the gristly bottom of the deckle, see http://www.chow.com/photos/401852
Considering the Dunn's is cooked and the Goldin's isn't, it might have been preferable to give the Goldin's a head start of an hour or two. I've only tried the Goldin's once at home, and we gave it a good 5 hours of steaming. First we steamed it in the bag in a large saucepan of water for about 3 hours. Then we tranfereed it to a covered roasting pan on the stovetop, on a rack over a half-inch or so of water (out of the bag), and we threw in some carrots, potatoes and cabbage to make a proper meal of it. The brisket was incredibly tender and tasty. We served up the meat with a loaf of silverstein's light rye and 4 kinds of mustard.
I don't know anything about Goldin's smoking time or temperature, but the meat was nowhere near fully cooked when supplied. He has not shared his methods - at least not with me. I've only had Goldin's product twice (too salty the first time; perfect the second), but there will certainly be more in the future, as my own pastrami season has likely ended.
I'll also be eating plenty of Caplansky's over the winter as well. I don't understand the whole "whose is better" thing going on. They are different. Both are good.You may have a clear preference. I have liked both very much, but I like my own better than either.
While I've never heard of cold smoked pastrami/smoked meat, there's no reason it couldn't be done that way.
The Dunn's was cut in half with the fattier end placed in a Ziploc freezer bag and simmered. It was buoyant, but some water leaked into the bag and dissolved some spicing.
The reheat was done in foil in an oven, after rubbing with smoked hot paprika and some pickling spice. That is probably how I'll do the remaining piece next weekend.
Meantime, I've got plenty of smoked meat for lunches and maybe corned beef hash this week.
The one time I made a Dunn's brisket, I removed it from the package and steamed it for, like, 2 hours over simmering water. Aren't you supposed to take it out of the plastic before cooking? Just as a rule, I avoid cooking in plastic - ever - but the instructions on the package says to steam it naked, I thought.