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Nov 6, 2009 01:42 PM

Searching for the best Ris de Veau in Paris

Hi 'hounders, I have a serious craving for ris de veau. Happens to many of us from time to time, I know. What restaurant, in your opinion, serves the best ris de veau in Paris?

Arrondissement & price is not important, although I would prefer a less stuffy place than your typical 3 macaron-er. Merci

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  1. What style are you looking for? Entier? Roasted? Sectioned? Fried/sauteed? Sauced or no?

    1 Reply
    1. re: mangeur

      Any way is good except breaded and deep fried (I see this often in the US and it pains me... just not a good way to showcase the taste of the ris itself, IMHO). What is important to me is the taste of the ris de veau, I've liked whole, sectioned, sauteed, braised, glazed, etc. Sauce is fine too as long as it doesn't overpower. Thanks.

    2. Will wait for Souphie to chime in, but best l had was on his plate at Ledoyen, nothing has ever come close.

      1 Reply
      1. re: Delucacheesemonger

        It will be interesting to see. His previous best was at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon and it is very good there. IMO it is a dish that need some care, skill, and time to prepare well, thus the top places are often a better bet.

      2. A very good one is served at Chez Géraud which was Pudlo's pick as best bistro of the year last year. It is normally braised, but fastidiously so.

        1. In order of price: Tante Louise, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Ledoyen.

          2 Replies
          1. re: souphie

            The one at La Grande Cascade is not half bad either.

            1. re: olivierb

              Absolutely - I forgot it. As did I the one at l'Auberge Bressane, with its cream and morel sauce.

          2. At Le Bristol I had some other dish (can't remember what) which had ris de veau on the side. This was a delicious combination--the highlight of an otherwise forgettable meal--and easy on the stomach, too! At L'Ambroisie one of my tablemates once ordered ris de veau; I tasted a couple of bites, but didn't find it especially interesting.

            3 Replies
            1. re: fanoffrance

              The ris de veau I had at L'Ambroisie were heavenly. The dish was ris de veau et escargots served with a crème chantilly and it remains one of the best things I've ever eaten.

              1. re: shortstop

                must agree with L'Ambroisie.
                Last time we were there it was served 3 ways,and was by far the best I have ever had.
                It was beautifully presented as well.
                A memorable dish.

              2. re: fanoffrance

                The traditional ris de veau at Le Bristol is on Cinnamon skewers and a kind of spinachs called tetragone. It is pretty damn good, but unfortunately it is indeed one of the few great dishes of a restaurant that otherwise lost its way in gaining the three stars.

                I don't like the ris de veau at l'Ambroisie either, but it's largely a matter of taste, as the l'Ambroisie one is on the well done side, without any creaminess inside, unlike the others I mentioned. I have the same issue with their chicken, but again, it's not a matter of faulting them. Funny how so many chefs who otherwise like intense tastes love their meat and seafood well done (Passard, Pacaud, Loiseau...)