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La Cahua Del Yeyo: Tuna Fin Tacos and Crab Soup in Tijuana, Sonoran Seafood Delivers

streetgourmetla Nov 5, 2009 12:38 PM

pics at
http://streetgourmetla.blogspot.com/2...

Only a short walking distance from the Sonoran seafood cathedral, Mariscos Ruben,lies another incredible Sonoran restaurant. La Cahua del Yeyo specializes in Sonoran seafood stews and soups, and a full menu of exotic tacos.You can have a life changing gastronomic tour in this little stretch of 8th St. on the edge of downtown and the Zona Rio.

You can also have this food delivered to your house in the stylish Caguamobile.The turtle mascot is an homage to one of the restaurants signature proteins, manta ray. Turtle was used in a soup made in Sonora until it was put on the endangered species list, and then manta ray was found a suitable replacement.Today the soup is a morphing of the two proteins, caguamanta, the turtle soup made with manta ray.

The fonda, La Cagua del Yeyo, is owned by the chef, Luis Mena, and his wife Malu. They've been at this quiet corner for more than 15 years.

It's a hole in the wall that looks like a bloated Costco Coca-Cola crate. The interior has a more personal touch, with the cute turtle logo and bright yellow walls.

Families wait for open tables to have the various soups and stews, especially the estofado de camaron(shrimp stew). The large tray is a seafood broth with shrimp, vegetables,and the option of including other seafood like manta ray, or tuna fin.The other offerings are vichis(a consomee with vegetables thrown in),Chilpacholi de jaiba(crab stew), and the famous caguamanta.

Tacos are a playground of interesting bites you must try.The tuna fin taco is a great way to get to know this rare delicacy. Its gelatinous texture and buttery aftertaste are delightful.The pieces are so fascinating you may catch yourself playing with your food.

Manta ray tacos are beloved by Sonorans for their excellent flavor.It is plump, meaty, and have a milder fish flavor.All of Yeyo's tacos are served with vegetables, upon request,from the various soups and stews. Green beans, carrots, peas, and celery might join the party of flavors, a nice surprise.

The Gobernador taco is packed with smoked marlin,cheese, pico de gallo, and doused with cream. The tortilla is crisped.This is a must for all the taco lovers out there.

The permanent house especial taco is the pulpo al olivo(octopus with olives), perfectly cooked octopus in olive oil, tender and hinting of Mediterranean sensibilities.

The octopus and olive taco is another unique nosh that makes La Cagua del Yeyo such an awesome spot.

They also have regular marlin tacos,combinations, and moronga(bood sausage), the only non-seafood item on the menu.The marlin here is always tops, and the blood sausage is excellent, mild enough for someone's first experience if they feel like expanding their horizons.

Vichis are a fine way to start your taco crawl here at Yeyo's. You get the consomee(vichis)in a glass with fresh vegetables slid in prior to serving.All soups here are full of strong seafood stocks, flavored by time and patience, not by heavy seasoning.

My favorite soup here is the chipacholi de jaiba, also served in a smallish glass, so you have room for multiple tacos.

Crab is so excellent in Baja, and this spicier stock is a brilliant match to the sweet local crab.

But, it's the estofado de camaron(shrimp stew) that packs the Tijuanenses in on weekends. You can order it with manta ray and tuna fin thrown in, and I can't think of an instance where you would consider the contrary.The large stew is so satisfying.With all these soups and stews you will find yourself drinking every last drop of broth. That's why Yeyo probably serves most soups in a glass, because it's the best way to get it all down.

La Cagua del Yeyo is a place you want to go for a seafood breakfast in a relaxing family environment. The food is outstanding. They stay open 'til 2PM for those who can't quite get out of bed after a wild Friday night.

These soups are a tasty alternative for "la cruda"(hangover).

La Cagua del Yeyo
8:30AM to 2PM daily
Calle 8,#8761(at Pio Pico
)Tijuana, BC

  1. Gypsy Jan Nov 6, 2009 11:01 AM

    SGLA,

    As always, a terrific and fascinating window into the diversity of food there is to be found in TJ and more great background on Mexico's gastronomic history.

    Is it possible the "vichi" consomme name has origins from the French?

    1 Reply
    1. re: Gypsy Jan
      streetgourmetla Nov 6, 2009 12:21 PM

      I believe that is correct, although the vichi doesn't have a true resemblance to the vichyssoise. It was more likely an inspiration that spiraled into its own separate soup.

      Sonora took in a huge wave of European immigrants in the late 1800's.Locals mention a French and Basque influence in the region. There are many fair-skinned Sonorans, and many blondes.

    2. kare_raisu Nov 6, 2009 05:27 PM

      This is definitely one of the most unique restaurants you have found Street in central TJ. Its pretty fascinating to get a glimpse into this sub-cuisine of Mexico thats probably one of the most ignored. If you are a texturally motivated chowhounder you will take delight in the casera/stewy Aleta and moranga; they are simply tops.

      Street is the the honorary gastronomia alcalde de Tijuas, there's no denying it!

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