Offal for a newbie
- nsenada Nov 4, 2009 05:51 AM
I am looking for recommendations for offal of the liver/kidney/sweetbreads/brain variety (organ meats) in the Boston area. I will confess, ever since I was a kid, the smell of liver frying, or chicken gizzards boiling away on the stove was downright nauseating to me.
I'm pretty adventurous in most other ways, I'll eat anything raw, have eaten all kinds of game, have had tripe, chicken feet, and foie gras (that doesn't count in my book - there's no trace of that "livery flavor").
Any recs for "gateway" organ meats that are perhaps challenging looking, but are on the mild side, organ-flavor-wise?
Sweetbreads are a good place to start. They're not at all livery or strong-tasting - quite mild, in fact. When properly cooked they're slightly crisp on the outside and meltingly tender inside. They benefit from recipes that include a savory ingredient like bacon or chorizo.
Eastern Standard does them well - they have an "offal of the day" appetizer that is some variation on sweetbreads 90% of the time.
528 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215
Since you've had foie gras, I'll assume chicken liver pate is already too unadventurous.
I'd probably go with fried veal sweetbreads. Sweetbreads aren't in any way gamey or unctuous, but are mild and incredibly tender. Frying them ought to make them even more accessible. Like adult chicken nuggets.
I like the sweetbreads at La Voile. Right now I think the preparation is fried, with mushrooms, in a cream and port sauce. Whatever it is, it is delicious. My favorite dish there. You could get the pate du jour (usually chicken liver or similar) as an appetizer, too.
Good luck! Offal is delicious!
261 Newbury Street, Boston, MA 02116
Another sweetbread option:
At least as of last weekend, Craigie on Main was offering "veal two-ways" with veal cheeks and sweetbreads. Both were absolutely delicious.
As the menu changes near-daily, I'd call before heading over if that was your sole reason for visiting, but Tony generally has offal on the menu, and it is always wonderful.
Craigie on Main
853 Main Street, Cambridge, MA 02139
Just had calf's brain at Petit Robert last week and loved them!
I've also enjoyed the sweetbreads there and at Eastern Standard and Olives.
How do you feel about hearts? They're heartier and more organy-y tasting than sweetbreads and brains but aren't as pronounced as liver. I like the grilled beef hearts (anticuchos) at Rincon Limeno and most Brazillian bbq places do chicken hearts.
409 Chelsea St, Boston, MA 02128
528 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215
Corneal fried chicken livers are back on the menu at the Franklin Cafe (South End). A stunning dish.
Toro might be the single best Western-tradition wrangler of animal parts in town, a huge variety of organ meats in myriad configurations. Their pig-ear terrine might be the prettiest dish I've been served in many weeks, and it's a flavor and textural delight, too. But there are so many things to try on that menu. Many of them are processed in such a way as to disguise their offal-y origins, like a delicious blood salami.
Estragon around the corner also does Spanish-style offal dishes, like a whole pig's head (not recommended for beginners) and serves delicious versions of tongue, fatback, cod cheeks, and chicken livers, among other options.
Here's a slightly-edited offal rundown I first posted here two years ago:
KO Prime. Sweetbread done like chicken nuggets.
Tripe in a Florentine stew at Trattoria Toscana (not always on the menu), many other North End Italians.
Beef tongue in sauce at El Oriental de Cuba; beef tongue tacos at many taquerias, notably Tacos Lupita.
Pupusas with chicharrones at Pupusa La Guanaca.
Pork skin (bi) banh mi at Pho Viet in the Allston Super 88 food court. Pate and head cheese banh mi at many places.
Beef cheek tacos especialies at Taqueria El Amigo in Waltham, my favorite dish there.
Various animal bits on the charcuterie and salumi plates at The Butcher Shop, Toro, Taberna de Haro, Bin 26.
Mondongo (Puerto Rican tripe soup) and stewed oxtail at Izzy's near Kendall Square, Cambridge.
Pan-sauteed chicken livers at the Franklin Cafe.
Chopped chicken liver at Rubin's Kosher Deli in Brookline.
Tripe and sweetbreads and occasionally brains at many of the traditional French places: Petit Robert, Pierrot, Troquet, Gaslight, etc.
Paya (cow or calves' foot) on the weekend Pakistani specials menu at Grain and Salt in Allston. Haven't tried that one myself yet.
Chicken hearts done rodizio style at the Midwest Grill in East Cambridge (Brazilian charrascaria).
Menudo, a common weekend special at many Mexican places (favored as a hangover remedy)
Intestine dishes in many Taiwanese and Korean restaurants.
The amazing frankfurters at Speed's Famous Hot Dog Wagon in Newmarket Square.
Chinatown -- too many to mention; I imagine more literate Hounds can comment here.
130 Jersey St, Boston, MA 02215
1704 Washington St, Boston, MA 02118
Taqueria El Amigo
196 Willow St, Waltham, MA 02453
Grain and Salt
431 Cambridge St, Allston, MA 02134
90 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02108
140 Boylston Street, Boston, MA 02116
Rubin's Kosher Deli
500 Harvard St, Brookline, MA 02446
1124 Cambridge St, Cambridge, MA 02139
1095 Commonwealth Ave, Boston, MA 02215
72 Spring St, New Bedford, MA 02740
Exactly. As I put it recently in the Stuff Magazine 2009 Dining Award I gave to Craigie on Main (a place that clearly belongs on my list) for "Oddest Crazy-Delicious Ingredient":
"Whole-hog enthusiast Tony Maws (who we think was robbed of a 2009 Beard Award) serves astonishing variety meats in his roomier new Central Square digs. If you’ve ever gobbled a Fenway Frank, there’s no reason to be a weenie about eating the crispy-fried pigs’ tails at Craigie on Main.
Maws wittily contrasts their richness with pickled peanuts, cilantro, and nuoc cham, the Vietnamese chili/lime/fish-sauce condiment. Americans tend to think of offal as poor people’s food, but these crunchy yet tender tails and Maws’s other plates of strange piggy parts will make you feel like aristocracy."
If we can expand beyond organ meats and simply go snout to tail on this one, I'd add:
- pringas at Estragon
- bone marrow
- cheeks of all kinds in all ways
- pig tails at Craigie
- lengua tacos