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The Eagle, Farringdon, London

limster Nov 1, 2009 01:36 PM

Impressively big serving of fennel soup, with good fennel flavour, and minute shreds and bits of fennel. Not as technically adroit as The Ambassador nearby (where I loved their silky cauliflower soup), but certainly more hearty.

A magnificent cut of pork chop, rimmed with a couple cm of fat. The pork is a tiny bit more fibrous than I would have liked (cooked longer than necessary?), but it's more of a quibble that can be shrugged away, rather than a complaint with real legs to stand on. A few roasted garlic as garnish, and a hill of lentils (cooked till splitting soft, rather than nubs with a hint of hardness), sweetened with cider and sparing bits of carrots.

A solid almond lemon cake flanked by clotted cream on one side, and an intense mixed berry compote, sweet and tangy. All coming together in big flavours.

Big hearted food, stripped down to essentials, no fuss. Doesn't have the finer bits of finesse but doesn't want it. Very fair prices, and very good for what it is and what it wants to be, and nothing more.