662759 Tue Oct 27 13:45:21 -0700 2009 44 49 France 0 5135332 My husband, daughter and I will be in Paris the week of Thanksgiving. I have found lots of lists of great bakeries and pastry shops--which we will check out. Once we get there, what specific pastries should we sample? Last time we were in Paris we ate many croissants, varieties of croissants, and every flavor of macaron we could find. We also tried several local ice creams. What else (especially that might be uncommon in the US outside of large cities) should we add to our mix? Many thanks. Tue Oct 27 13:45:21 -0700 2009 246550 lsinicki 1 5135395 I was there back in 83 and 85. I loved the croissants with the chocolate in them. I was reading today about Kouign Aman, pastry with layers of buttery sugar dough. Do a search and see how they look, they either are baked in one big pastry or individual ones. I didn't know about them back then or I'd have looked for them. I've printed off many recipes for them and one day i'll make one!!!! :) :) :) Tue Oct 27 14:07:04 -0700 2009 5135332 62251 Barbarainnc 2 5135425 Try the pâtisserie Aurore Capucine (3 rue de Rochechouart), esp the pastries using lavender.and other flowers Tue Oct 27 14:20:38 -0700 2009 5135395 1106797 Parigi 3 5135900 Parigi, I'm sorry to repeat your endorsement. With our mutual rec of this insolite address, we need to meet sometime. What an adventure! Tue Oct 27 17:41:13 -0700 2009 5135425 1107357 mangeur 4 5136585 (Transcendentally off topic): Mangeur, Geniuses think alike. Wed Oct 28 01:46:30 -0700 2009 5135900 1106797 Parigi 2 5135572 Thank you. I looked it up, and it looks and sounds like the ideal thing to alternate with croissants for breakfast. Tue Oct 27 15:23:27 -0700 2009 5135395 246550 lsinicki 1 5135546 Whenever we are in town for a few days, and they are the right days, I try to get to Vandermeersch just inside the periphique in the 12th. ON SATURDAYS AND SUNDAYS ONLY they make an incredible array of kuglehofp, airy brioche-like tube cakes with almonds, fruit or not. Go early. They usually sell out before noon. A small one will serve two for breakfast for two days (if you are both restrained). We call for room service coffee and have a feast. The first time I brought one back to the hotel, my husband looked at it and said that it wasn't the kind of thing he liked. He tried a small piece and from then on I had to beat him away from it with a club. 278, Avenue Daumesnil, 75012 Paris, France 01 43 47 21 66 Tue Oct 27 15:14:10 -0700 2009 5135332 1107357 mangeur 2 5136606 Although I'll gladly second the general recomendation of Gugelhopf (my tastes in pastry go more towards the germanophone Alps), it's a very non-French style of pastry and not something widely adopted either. It never would have occured to me to ask, but if anyone has a recommendation for Dampfknödeln... Isinicki: since we're talking non-French pastries as well, do you have access to arab pastries where you are? Wed Oct 28 02:38:24 -0700 2009 5135546 177724 tmso 3 5136619 Ran into 4 shops in Toulouse a bit back, but that l am sure is no help. Wed Oct 28 03:11:00 -0700 2009 5136606 71113 Delucacheesemonger 3 5156459 I live in Portland, Maine-- and I'm not aware of any arab pastries. But we do have a fairly diverse population, so there may be pastry in one of the tiny ethnic mini-markets we have. What do you suggest I look for? Wed Nov 04 15:43:49 -0800 2009 5136606 246550 lsinicki 4 5157778 In that case, I would suggest you look for them in Paris. We have a lovely Algerian pastry shop, La bague de Kenza. The main store is on the rue St-Maur, but there are a few other locations around the city. Things to try would include cornes de gazelle, cigares, skandriates, maqrout-el-louz, droits de Kenza, and galb-elouz. For Tunisian pastries, there's a boutique Masmoudi on the bd St-Germain. Baklawas, melfoufs, mlabes, tajins and dawamas would be good things to try. Thu Nov 05 07:16:13 -0800 2009 5156459 177724 tmso 5 5168656 Thank you. We may have to skip meals to leave more room for pastry. Mon Nov 09 17:22:27 -0800 2009 5157778 246550 lsinicki 1 5135564 Another off the wall place is Aurore-Capucine Patisserie on lower rue Rochechouart in the 9th. This tiny whimsical place makes you shake your head in wonder: savory (rosemary, thyme) and floral (rose, violet) sable cookies, fantasy cakes and pastries. The proprietess is someone out of a fairytale. http://gridskipper.com/archives/entries/057/57527.php#at Tue Oct 27 15:20:27 -0700 2009 5135332 1107357 mangeur 1 5135803 At Pierre Hermé, be sure to try the pastry called "Carrément Chocolat." It is incredible. They also have a fabulous "tartelette au café," something I haven't come across anywhere else. http://www.chocoparis.com/best-pastry-shops-in-paris/ Tue Oct 27 16:52:00 -0700 2009 5135332 324254 NoraC 1 5136537 Kouigh Aman are my favs as well. Right now consuming one from my wonderful supplier. Au Grenier du Pain, but only the one on Rue Abbesses. Been trying these pastries all over France, especially Bretagné where they are based, and IMHO this bakery has it right. Wed Oct 28 00:26:10 -0700 2009 5135332 71113 Delucacheesemonger 2 5136728 I often go up to Abbesses, to the poissonnerie on Lepic-Abbesses. Now I must check out Au Grenier du Pain... There is also the very popular yet no-frill "Les Petits Mitrons" on 26 Rue Lepic, a pie specialist. The outside crowd equals that at the Amélie café across the street. Another good place in the general neighborhood of Aurore-Capucine is Pâtisserie Seurre. Seurre is not a baker but a real chef pâtissier, of several generations at that. Delmontel on rue des Martyrs makes an excellent old-fashioned lemon pie (tarte au citron à l'ancienne), using crushed lemon peel, but one has to "book" a pie as the bakery makes very few on spec. Wed Oct 28 05:24:58 -0700 2009 5136537 1106797 Parigi 2 5138298 Interesting; our local supplier of Kouigh Aman, who's become a legend, at least in our diminutive batiment, is Arnaud Larher: 53 rue Caulaincourt in the unfashionable18th. John Talbott http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/john_talbotts_paris/ Wed Oct 28 14:20:48 -0700 2009 5136537 1088206 John Talbott 3 5138493 Thanks, will try. Wed Oct 28 15:32:16 -0700 2009 5138298 71113 Delucacheesemonger 1 5156471 Thank you everyone. I'm adding all of your suggestions to my map. Wed Nov 04 15:49:00 -0800 2009 5135332 246550 lsinicki 1 5156947 Pierre Herme is considered by many to be the best patissier in Paris. He has a shop in the 6th and in the 15th. His Ispahan pastry is a modern classic (a marriage of rose, lichis, raspberries) and is an absolute must. Pierre Herme used to be the pat. chef at Laduree. You will see a version of Ispahan in Laduree (if you go there). Laduree's version IMHO is far inferior to the masterpiece he sells in his shops. My other favorite at PH's is Deux Mille Feuilles; a praline flavored napoleon. His croissants are beautiful and delicious. His macarons are famous, you should be there in time to taste the white truffle macarons. I also like the rose, caramel and vanilla versions. PH's macaron's are dense and intense. The light macaron philosophy is beautifully represented by Laduree. In this case, you can easily eat half a dozen of these light tasty treats. I am partial to the reglisse flavor. Laduree's Sunday brunch at the 6th arrondissement location is delicious and affordable. One order is good for two and includes a large assortment of treats including viennoiserie, pastries, macarons, fruit salad and much, much more. For croissants I have always been a big fan of Kaiser. He has several shops in different locales. Are you interested in chocolates? Pierre Herme makes some very interesting and delicious newfangled ones. Michel Cluizel on the right bank makes my favorite traditional pralines and ganaches and has the most intense dark chocolate tablettes around (go for the Venezuelan Conception bar). Debauve and Gallais is a venerable chocolate house worthy of visiting. While I am not a fan, Maison du Chocolat has its followers. Enjoy! Wed Nov 04 19:08:59 -0800 2009 5135332 1114645 chickenluv 2 5157199 So good to see a reasoned compare and contrast of macarons rather than the simple X is better than Y. It is interesting to understand the difference in styles. I like both but can see how different styles appeal to different people. Wed Nov 04 21:26:33 -0800 2009 5156947 64584 PhilD 2 5168665 Sounds like we need to hit PH several times. Will definitely try the Deux Mille Feuilles. And of course we like chocolate. Many thanks. Mon Nov 09 17:25:45 -0800 2009 5156947 246550 lsinicki 2 5172827 Pierre Hermé also has a croissant he calls Ispahan for similar flavoring to the pastry of the same name. It`s filled with raspberry jam and, to me, was way too sweet and heavy. Not a nice thing to do to his otherwise superb croissants. Wed Nov 11 09:30:14 -0800 2009 5156947 110779 RandyB 3 5173245 Hmmm... I don't know whether to try it or avoid it. Wed Nov 11 11:49:09 -0800 2009 5172827 246550 lsinicki 4 5173938 TRY IT!!! We loved the Ispahan croissants so much that we toted four (!!) onto the plane to bring home to our family. I have been day dreaming about them ever since my return to NY. Wed Nov 11 15:25:48 -0800 2009 5173245 189556 alyssabrooke 5 5176406 It's near the top of my extremely long list. Thank you. Thu Nov 12 12:33:19 -0800 2009 5173938 246550 lsinicki 3 5185805 I am a huge Pierre Herme fan, but I agree completely with RandyB. The Isfahan croissant is awful. The tragedy, so to speak, is that it has replaced the almond croissant at PH, which was IMHO the best almond croissant I ever tasted Mon Nov 16 10:49:32 -0800 2009 5172827 272474 parislovernyc 4 5188210 That's sad. I love almond croissants. Where is what you would consider your next favorite? Tue Nov 17 07:33:38 -0800 2009 5185805 246550 lsinicki 5 5188801 I wasn't asked, but I'd say Seurre, rue des Martyrs. Tue Nov 17 10:25:50 -0800 2009 5188210 96547 souphie 6 5190688 Seurre is a hugely underrated pâtisserie, probably because the interior looks like crap, but don't be fooled ! Wed Nov 18 01:50:47 -0800 2009 5188801 1106797 Parigi 7 5191808 Thanks to Souphie and Parigi for the ringing endorsement of Seurre. I don't know it, but intend to know it well. Wed Nov 18 10:47:09 -0800 2009 5190688 272474 parislovernyc 5 5188863 For almond croissants that are split, filled with almond paste and baked the second time, try the one from Au Levain de Marais. Tue Nov 17 10:42:08 -0800 2009 5188210 10756 PBSF 6 5188878 Are you talking about the one on rue de Turenne in the Marais? The original one on blvd. Beaumarchais no longer has that name, and the original owner/baker is apparently gone from both. Tue Nov 17 10:45:54 -0800 2009 5188863 110779 RandyB 7 5189009 Yes, on rue de Turenne. It was a favorite when our apartment was in the Marais. Tue Nov 17 11:21:38 -0800 2009 5188878 10756 PBSF 5 5189907 I don't have a next favorite, as nothing ever came close for me, but now I will, alas, have to start a new search and I'm grateful for the suggestions given here. I drowned my sorror over the (I hope, temporary) loss of Pierre Herme's classic almond croissant by focusing on his totally superb kugelhof instead. I know it may be too sweet for some chowhounds, but I think it's the best. By the way, I would also recommend the pain cereal at Secco in the 7th. It's not pastry but it's really good. Tue Nov 17 16:20:13 -0800 2009 5188210 272474 parislovernyc 6 5190305 Funny you should mention Kugelhoff because I was absolutely addicted to the min Kugelhoff's from Laduree. The classic Kug is a nice, fairly light and yeasty sweet bread but Laduree's version is denser with a light rum syrup and are coated with granular sugar. Completely different from the usual (and some might say not a real Kug. at all) but I absolutely loved them and even better they travel really well. I got a box of them to bring home to Vancouver and they were just fine two days later. Tue Nov 17 19:29:54 -0800 2009 5189907 281002 eatrustic 7 5190641 You should try the one from La Fleur d'Oranger, rue Lebon, on saturdays. Actually, you can probably try two or three for the price of Hermé's or Ladurée's. Wed Nov 18 00:06:25 -0800 2009 5190305 96547 souphie 8 5191803 Thanks for the recommendation, Souphie. We'll be back in Paris in March and will make a beeline to rue Lebon the first Saturday. Wed Nov 18 10:45:59 -0800 2009 5190641 272474 parislovernyc 1 5157557 Try the Escargots at La Boulangerie de Monge, the pain perdu at Des Gateaux et du Pain, the salt/chocolate macaron at Grégory Renard. Thu Nov 05 05:51:57 -0800 2009 5135332 96547 souphie 2 5157673 Also the feuillette au framboise and the chausson au pomme at Des Gateaux et du Pain. Des Gateaux et du Pain also had a pear/caramel tarte that I never had a chance to taste, but it looked beautiful. (Last summer they had a similar one with white peach and verbena that was stellar.) Thu Nov 05 06:43:36 -0800 2009 5157557 139694 Nancy S. 3 5168670 Do any of the bakeries sell tartes by the slice, or do we need to go to a tea room for that? Mon Nov 09 17:28:05 -0800 2009 5157673 246550 lsinicki 4 5169170 I would say nearly all of them do. Mon Nov 09 21:19:24 -0800 2009 5168670 64584 PhilD 5 5169529 I suggest the peach tart at Gerard Mulot. As soon as we go back to Paris this spring it will be the first thing I eat! Tue Nov 10 05:37:42 -0800 2009 5169170 22620 DaisyM 6 5169570 Mulot, IMO, is good for any fruit tarts. After that, it's purely personal preference. For me, it's raspberry - anytime. Tue Nov 10 06:07:42 -0800 2009 5169529 13522 Dodo 7 5170367 Okay, I guess I'll just have to force myself to have a raspberry tart, too! Tue Nov 10 10:54:43 -0800 2009 5169570 22620 DaisyM