Charles Lamb, Islington, London
- limster Oct 26, 2009 03:12 PM
A well composed salad with the gentle sweetness of figs against a snowy goats cheese (slightly tangy but not much goaty pungence), the interactions reinforced by crunchy sparkles of bright sweet sour pomegranate seeds and crisp, bitter frisee.
A silky cider braised rabbit, with a slightly sweet braising liquid enhanced by I what thought were plenty of onions, but also prunes, the fruit and savoury flavour working well with the airy herby flavour in the celeriac mash and the heavy vegetal bitterness of kale.
A dessert of comfort -- cake and custard -- apple cake in this case, with apples a bit sparse imho but good medium moist crumble, and takes naturally to the custard.
Hearty simple but well cooked fare with an excellent eye to balance and flavour composition.
Shhhhhhh... it's a secret! I went last thursday and enjoyed a rich borscht and and a warming pumpkin, roquefort and chestnut dauphinoise (the cream did split but it still tasted fantastic). I tried some rabbit rillettes and chicken pie, both excellent.
They always achieve big flavours with simple technique.