Eating on or around Corso Como (not Number 10)?
I think I'm going to be staying in a hotel on the Corso Como and while I'm likely to want a cocktail or coffee at No. 10, I think my wallet will want to eat elsewhere.
Any good recommendations within walking distance for a moderately priced meal? We drift toward preferring vegetables over meat.
You won't eat poorly at the following nor will you have the meal of your life, but most importantly you won't break the bank. These are popular 'everyday favorite' type places. The majority are near the Moscova stop on the green line and are about 15 min or less walking south from Corso Como.
Osteria dei Poeti--Corso Garibaldi 40: You should probably reserve here. It's always packed and pretty cheap. They serve lunch even a little more cheaply.
Serendib--Via Pontida 2: This one is a little closer to Parco Sempione. I don't think Italy does foreign food that well but this place is pretty good if you want vegetarian Sri Lankan/Indian.
Sibilla--Via Mercato 14: This one might be a 20 min walk from the top of Corso Como. Go for pizza and nothing else.
Le Rosse--Corso Garibaldi: This place is pretty new and it might not be exactly what you want because they are really into charcuterie and cheese but they also have pasta and salads.
Gambarotta--Via Moscova 50: Passable pizza and lots of other dishes. They offer a standard menu and one that is more in tune with the season.
Ferrelli-- This place is simple but good. All the primi were under 10 euro if memory serves. From corso como you want to walk south to get to Pasubio. It's the big cross street . Turn right and walk all the way down to the stop light towards chinatown where three or four streets intersect. You want the hard right. Walk up the street about half the block. If you see the cemetery at the end of the street you took the soft right and are on the wrong street. I promise you will be the only tourist here.
Thanks so much!
Ferrelli looks like just the place I want. Is it this one? Should we reserve? We are going Sat nite.
By the way, can you recommend any particular bars around there for apertivi?
Yes, that's the place. I'm sure a reservation on a Sat night would not hurt. I've only been there on a weeknight.
As for aperitivo, I'm kind of off it. When I first got to Italy I thought it was the greatest thing ever but I guess I am not sophisticated enough and too often ruined my appetite and got drunk by 8pm. At any rate, almost any bar in Milano will put out a little spread.
That said, I have the perfect place for you. Cantine Isola is on Paolo Sarpi 30. It's very close to Ferrelli. The food options aren't super great but the atmosphere is one of the best for my money. At its best it is the very definition of convivial. Come here for wine as there are numerous options from all over Italy and they'll uncork a bottle of almost anything you could want if you ask nicely.
Here's a few other places that have put me in the tank too early.
Moscatelli--Via Garibaldi 93 This one is on the beaten path and if you don't time it right the food gets kind of picked over. I don't have much advice for when that time is, however. They have outdoor seating and a fairly extensive and moderately priced wine list.
Bar Brera-- corner of Via Brera and Fiori Chiari
If you want strong drinks, abundant food, and good people watching head here.
Since you mentioned more veg options, Obika is on Via Mercato (which is what Via Garibaldi becomes if you just keep heading towards the center). If you've never been to one of its branches, I think aperitivo is the best intro but also lets you cross it off the list.
Thanks, badwaiter! I had been doing some googling and zeroed in on Cantine Isola. It does sound like what I'd be looking for, and glad to have your confirmation. I have much enjoyed Bar Brera for all the reasons you say, especially in fine weather, but I like wine and to try new things in Milan.
We're just passing through for the night before getting onto planes the next day. Usually I stay near the Corso Magenta, but this time found a good hotel rate last minute on the Corso Como, and am looking forward to at least glimpsing the neighborhood. Ferelli is a great recommendation, and I thank you. I'll call ahead to reserve.
Just adding an update:
Unfortunately, Ferrelli was booked, so we ended up at Alla Cucina delle Langhe, and I was mostly quite disappointed. I recall thinking that if the reputation of Piemontese food rested on this restaurant -- or if this is some people first or only experience -- of Piemontese cuisine, it would be a shame.
Dinner started with amuse bouche that were uniquely awful. Fried balls of mysterious dried something -- dry and tasteless, kind of a cross between kofta and kibble -- plus some very doughy, Sicilan-pizza like bread painted with tomato paste. We skipped the excessively meaty (sliced, cured) and unimaginative antipasti menu and went straight to a passable risotto with fresh mushrooms. This being October, the mushroom were grand. The risotto was bland. The cheese served with it by the tablespoon was lovely and greatly (grated) improved the dish. We opted for bagna cauda because neither of us had tried it before and we didn't want braised meats. Since I come from a land of anchovies, these seemed not up to snuff -- plus, I had to wonder if the usual Milanese dislike of garlic had caused them to alter the dish. Anyway, it wasn't good. Dessert was terrible! A panna cotta that could have passed for a rubber hockey puck and a failed dessert of pistachio gelato spiced up with chile and drowned in tequila (not my choice, my companions).
It's a pity to be in Milano and not eat well. Next time I'll book early at Ferrelli's (the menu looks lovely) or just take my chances on what smells good marching down the corso Garibaldi if I end up in the same hotel (UNA Tocq -- quiet. Friendly.)