Kitchen Galerie bis in the 6th, 3 visits and some news.
- John Talbott Oct 9, 2009 10:02 AM
I figure that after 3 visits to Kitchen Galerie bis aka KGB (2 for Colette) this month, it's safe to say that William Ledeuil has launched his new venture quite successfully. Its formula - spicy, inventive zors d'oeuvres (that's right zors) and "formula" - 3 zors and a more classic main dish (rabbit rollatine, tempured shrimp and squid, spare ribs, rascasse, daurade), with non-surprising-Ledeuil desserts, are an easy 27 E for two courses, 34 E for three.
One problem, incredibly spare furniture, walls, etc., lead to a din in the midst of service that is just short of unbearable, but the ever-charming Jerome assured me/us today it would be fixed soon with the addition of some acoustical magic.
Kitchen Galerie bis
25, rue des Grands Augustins, 6th (Metro: Saint Michel
)T: 01 46 33 00 85
Menu at lunch: 34, a la carte 60-80 €.
"One problem, incredibly spare furniture, walls, etc., lead to a din in the midst of service that is just short of unbearable, but the ever-charming Jerome assured me/us today it would be fixed soon with the addition of some acoustical magic."
Today as Colette and I were walking by KGB after a splendid feed at Ze (and no you can't get it in Santa Monica, Hong Kong or Cambridge and no, it's not fusion food), Jerome popped out to inform us that before the rentree, said magical ceiling would be installed).
re: John Talbott
",,,,a splendid feed at Ze (and no you can't get it in Santa Monica, Hong Kong or Cambridge and no, it's not fusion food),,,,"
Perhaps this rap is the result of menu and diner descriptions of plates in which the ingredients and combinations are indeed suggestive of fusion food or neo-Pacific Rim. They do read to me like menus I can find locally in the Bay Area. It may well be that one has to experience Jerome's cuisine to understand its distinction.
I think our disconnect is semantical. As in what is "fusion"? and what is cooking with classic technique or process from one culture and using unusual ingredients that are more often found in another culture? What is Roellinger's cooking? The real problem is that someone coined a phrase that has stuck to so much bad cooking while the concept is or at least be actually a very good one.
I would agree that "fusion" is a word that does not help much. But what Roellinger does has nothing with what Ledeuil does. Ledeuil does good and easy cooking with unusual ingredient pairings. It's entertaining and expensive. Roellinger reinvents everything he does, has an extraordinary palate and precision in cooking. He tells a story with every dish, with every bite, one that is exactly about how ingredients from different cultures can meet and create something new and exciting. He's a true poet. Also his ingredients are in another league. Roellinger's cooking is essentially part of the French tradition, precisely because of the way it tries to integrate foreign influence, which is the real trademark of French cooking.
re: John Talbott
Very much enjoyed the Menu Decouverte at KGB.
--Started with five zors d'oeuvres, my favorite was the crab ravioli in coconut milk with Asian herbs.
--St-Pierre in a light coconut milk sauce, note of orange zest and a deep hint of shallot. Green beans.
--Magret de canard with cherries and ginger -- duck tender as butter, and loved the rich, winey sauce. Perhaps it could have used a hint of acid.
--Two desserts: Ginger ice cream in peach coulis, light and refreshing. Also vanilla ice cream with a passion fruit pastry cream, which was too thick and floury.
Best bite: The St-Pierre, seemingly warmed until it turned to the side of being cooked. Delightful layering of flavors. I do wonder if it should have been deskinned, however. (Skin was thick and difficult to cut.)
Quibble: Why do they serve everything in the little cocottes? They make it hard to get the food into your maw fast enough. ;)
Price: Menu découverte is 60 Euros per person.