HOME > Chowhound > Washington DC & Baltimore >
What have you made lately? Tell us about it
TELL US

Cold Weather = Saltenas....new places to try

c
CoconutMilk Oct 5, 2009 06:41 PM

I've had Luzmila's, La Caraquena's, Tutto Bene's and Pike Pizza's.

Want to try My Bakery, Victors Grill....has anyone had them? Any other recs.

Viva la saltena!

  1. s
    Steve Oct 5, 2009 07:13 PM

    My favorite continues to be El Pike at 50 and Patrick Henry in the Willston Shopping Center. Also very good humintas.

    22 Replies
    1. re: Steve
      c
      CoconutMilk Oct 8, 2009 08:47 AM

      I've got to disagree with you there Steve. I've been on a saltena kick this week, and having had ones from My Bakery, Luzmila's, and El Pike, I'd have to put Pike's at the bottom. The filling is properly soupy and theirs have raisins, which i like, but the pastry is all wrong. I find it way too bready.

      My bakery's saltenas are ok. Nice crust, well-seasoned filling (more cumin than most- almost indian tasting)....but they arent soupy enough.

      Pike Pizza, Luzmilas, and La Caraquena (inspite of being ridiculously expensive) are my top 3

      1. re: CoconutMilk
        g
        Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 09:12 AM

        I'm not a saltena expert and haven't had them at any of the places you mention except for Luzmila's. But I have had several delicious batches of saltenas made by Bolivian friends, which were delicious. I haven't noticed the filling being soupy. I guess I would describe the saltenas I've had as a thick, juicy savory mixture--closer to stew than a soup. I guess I'm wondering why you think the saltena's filling should be soupy?

        1. re: Gigi007
          s
          Steve Oct 8, 2009 11:02 AM

          Actually saltenas are supposed to be filled with soup or be very juicy/soupy, though I guess a definition of that could differ. They are usually served in a bowl with a spoon, if you are eating in. Also, unlike empanadas, they are football shaped, a bit sweet, and the shell is hard on the outside but (somewhat) bready on the inside. I guess the breadiness is a matter of taste as I like the pastry shell at El Pike and CoconutMilk doesn't. I do notice that the liquid is not as spicy as it used to be, unfortunately, so you do have to add in the hot sauce they give you on the side.

          It's true they are not the masterpieces they once were becuase they are not as spicy and have less egg/olive than before. But I get the impression that El Pike bakes a lot of these for other restaurants/ markets, and I still feel that they are the freshest around. But all three of CoconutMilk's favorites are very good places to go, for sure.

          I like the photo and description in the link below:
          http://lunaticllama.com/tag/saltenas/

          1. re: Steve
            g
            Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 11:11 AM

            Steve, like I said, I've had saltenas prepared by Bolivian friends and at various restaurants, so I'm definitely familiar with what they look and taste like. And certainly, I'm aware of the difference between saltenas and empanadas as well. None of the saltenas I've eaten have had liquid-like fillings. Juicy, yes, stew-like, possibly. Also, my Bolivian friends (one of whom is a professional cook) doesn't serve saltenas in bowls.

            1. re: Gigi007
              w
              WestEnderJMU Oct 8, 2009 12:51 PM

              I'm partially Bolivian, my Grandfather is Boliviano and my Mother was born there and have eaten many a saltena in my day and I found Steve's description of a saltena to be dead on. A traditional saltena has all the ingredient "chunks" ie. the egg, meat etc. but the sauce inside is definitely on the "soupier" side. Often if they sit for a while the sauce will congeal enough that it won't drip all over the place. They are definitely nowhere as dry as an empanada. I would put it somewhere between stewey and soupy. You have to remember that different regions of Bolivia, and even Northern Argentina have their own style of saltena which can be different to what one is used to.

              I haven't hit all the locations, but I was somewhat disappointed in Pike's the last time I went. I have found myself going back to Tutto Benne most often recently, they have the largest (almost too big to be a saltena) and have the right level of juiciness and the shell has always had the right texture, not too crispy and not too soggy.

              If anyone has any other reccomendations I'll definitely be keeping my eye on this thread. Anyone know the best place to get some falso conejo while we're on the Bolivian subject?

              1. re: WestEnderJMU
                g
                Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 01:18 PM

                Thanks for your comments, WestEnder. It could be that the saltenas my Bolivian friends and the chef make are a different regional take. (IIRC, the chef is from Santa Cruz and not La Paz). I guess I wouldn't describe the filling as soupy exactly because of what you just mentioned--usually the sauce congeals enough so that it doesn't drip all over the place (maybe that isn't the case if you eat them right out of the oven). And once the filling/sauce has congealed, at least to me, it's not very soupy, unless you're thinking of a very thick soup, almost a stew. Perhaps one person's soup is another person's stew or thick sauce. And I've travelled around the north of Argentina, so I'm familiar with the Argentine version. Plus a good friend of mine here in DC is actually from Salta, and both her saltenas and empanadas are quite unique.

                As for falso conejo, perhaps you can check El Antojito, the Bolivian carry-out in Olney, referenced earlier.

                EDIT: Re: falso conejo, I also think that Luzmila's has it, but I don't know how good it is there.

                1. re: WestEnderJMU
                  s
                  Steve Oct 8, 2009 01:45 PM

                  Llajtaymanta has a really good falso conejo. thanks for the Tutto Bene rec, I've been there once, but i didn't have the saltena. Must rectify that.

                  Most saltenas are cooked in the morning and should probably be eaten by lunch time, unless a place has so much business they can make them more than once a day. A saltena that has congealed is an old saltena.

                  1. re: WestEnderJMU
                    z
                    Ziv Oct 8, 2009 05:01 PM

                    It is funny, but I think I like the stale saltenas better than the soupy, fresh ones. I think it is because I used to get my saltenas at La Union on Lee in Arlington. They were made in MD and brought down early every morning and they were a delicious mess of stewy dark meat chicken, raisins, olives, egg and just plain deliciousness. The shell was kind of empanada like, but not over baked like Pike does them. And you could eat them out of your hand, because the ingredients were thick enough that they wouldn't flow out if you ate from the end of the football down to the bottom of the football, so to speak. I have had them at Pike's and at Luzmilla's and they were good, but not great like the way they used to be at La Union. Which has a pretty nice selection of empanadas, corn tamales and pupusas for a pretty good price. Kind of out of the way but good.

                    1. re: Ziv
                      g
                      Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 05:06 PM

                      Are you sure what you ate was stale? A saltena baked a few hours earlier or even the night before, IMHO, is hardly stale or even old, for that matter. I've eaten a lot of saltenas that were perfectly fresh, but not soupy (as I've posted before). A Bolivian chef friend of mine once made a batch in the evening and served them at lunch the following day. They tasted quite fresh and had a stewy filling, which did not leak all over the place when you bit into them.

                      1. re: Gigi007
                        s
                        Steve Oct 8, 2009 07:11 PM

                        Sorry, but I do not subscribe to your ideas about eating and serving saltenas, despite the experience you had with your Bolivian chef friend. In a bakery or restaurant, not a private lunch or pot luck, the saltenas should be made fresh that morning.

                        I prefer how this Bolivian food blog explains it.....

                        http://www.boliviabella.com/saltenas....

                        "In fact, that’s why you won’t want to buy a salteña in the afternoon at any bakery either because they’ve most likely been drying out."

                        And from the previous link:

                        "...are usually gushing with liquid."

                      2. re: Ziv
                        littlew1ng Oct 9, 2009 09:45 AM

                        hey ziv — tell me more about la union. are you sure it's not the one on wilson? and is it good? i just moved right over near it. what's good there? besides salteñas.

                        1. re: littlew1ng
                          z
                          Ziv Oct 9, 2009 11:20 AM

                          Same bunch of guys, but the one on Wilson is mostly cafe with catering avalable, and Old Lee is mostly grocery with a heat and eat option at the butchers station. They no longer carry the saltenas from Maryland, which is too bad because they were delicious. I shouldn't have referred to them as stale, they were probably a few hours old and kept in a refrigerator til the owner would nuke em hot for you. La Union still has very good pupusa revueltas with cabbage and salsa, and their empanadas are good, tho they look more like lebanese kibbeh than the empanada in the picture below. But their corn tamales with sour cream take the prize, just delicious and cheap.
                          Anyway, I just got back from Luzmilla's, and they serve saltenas Steve Style, really soupy. The chicken one was good with the olive and egg not getting drowned out, but the beef was only fair and the spicy empanada was kind of bland and under whelming.
                          Chicken saltena is the clear winner at Luzmillas, but I kind of like the thicker stewy type of slightly less fresh saltenas, they are easier to eat and the flavor kind of blends together better.

                           
                  2. re: Steve
                    m
                    MikeR Oct 11, 2009 05:04 AM

                    If that's how saltenas are supposed to be, then I'd expect them to be served in a bowl with a spoon. I just imagined them as street (i.e. "hand") food and one of the things that makes the ones from My Bakery OK with me is that I can eat one from my hand.

                    Call me a gringo, but I like what I like. <g>

                    1. re: MikeR
                      s
                      Steve Oct 11, 2009 05:45 AM

                      At La Caraquena they are served with a spoon and in a non-shallow dish. It is not a very liquidy saltena, but even then I would suggest some caution. I like the idea on the bolivian food blog about biting off one end and slurping out the liquid, (like you would do with xiao long bao) so in that case the spoon is maybe not essential. But a great saltena is not something that I'd eat like an empanada.

                      1. re: Steve
                        z
                        Ziv Oct 11, 2009 06:48 AM

                        Steve, I have no doubt that you know saltenas better than I ever will, but I am with MikeR on this, I like the saltenas that have soaked up the soup, and turned it into a thick stew that is edible by hand. I can't believe I am saying this, but the hot out of the oven saltena I had from Luzmillas was not as enjoyable as one that had been in a refrigerator, then nuked to a toasty state of culinary bliss.
                        World turned upside down...

                        1. re: Ziv
                          s
                          Steve Oct 11, 2009 10:01 AM

                          I would just love to be able to get a saltena in DC that looks and tastes like what I've read about the saltenas in Bolivia.

                          1. re: Ziv
                            g
                            Gigi007 Oct 11, 2009 10:05 AM

                            Ziv, as I posted before, the Bolivians I know here in the U.S. make and eat saltenas the way you are describing (thick stewy filling and a pastry that you are able to eat with one hand). I have no doubt that in many places in Bolivia, saltenas may be served in bowls with spoons, but that isn't what I've seen here (in restaurants or at homes of Bolivian friends). No one I know here, including a Bolivian friend who is also a chef, serves saltenas in bowls with a spoon. In fact, The difference may be due to the life style. The Bolivians I know also don't consider saltenas that have been resting a few hours to be stale or old and regularly serve them at lunches, as snacks, etc.

                            1. re: Gigi007
                              s
                              Steve Oct 11, 2009 11:12 AM

                              Quite frankly, you post as if I am making these things up on my own! Yes, I was served a spoon two days ago at La Caraquena, I swear. And last week at El Pike also. And both times in a dish designed to catch the liquid. And I also did not invent the websites of boliviabelle.com or lunaticllama.com or their content.

                              I said nothing about resting a few hours. Many delicious baked goods throughout the world are made early in the morning and purchased a few hours later. But I would prefer my saltenas not be left over from the day before.

                              1. re: Steve
                                s
                                Steve Oct 12, 2009 11:59 AM

                                I have started a thread on the General Topics Board for the general discussion of how saltenas should be prepared:

                                http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/6588...

                  3. re: CoconutMilk
                    s
                    Steve Oct 9, 2009 02:13 PM

                    With all this talk of saltenas, I just had to try the version at La Caraquena. At $5, it is twice the normal going rate. Also, it may be a bit smaller than usual. But the pastry is the best I've had with a properly browned and doubly delicious ridge. Also, this is a less sweet version than the usual NoVa take, so I am very happy I tried it.

                    Thanks for the rec.

                    1. re: Steve
                      littlew1ng Oct 9, 2009 02:51 PM

                      i'm glad to hear you enjoyed them, maybe i'll give that spot another shot. i was more than a little underwhelmed by the arepas.

                      1. re: littlew1ng
                        s
                        Steve Oct 9, 2009 03:13 PM

                        I like the domino arepa.

                2. m
                  MikeR Oct 6, 2009 07:02 AM

                  I've always wanted to try some other things at My Bakery but I never get past the saltenas. They're nicely spiced, juicy (but not too juicy to eat) and cheap. If I'm not really hungry, one is usually enough for me.

                  1. littlew1ng Oct 6, 2009 08:15 AM

                    i hear through the grapevine that tutto benne in ballston serves salteñas on weekends. never had them but worth investigating.

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: littlew1ng
                      w
                      WestEnderJMU Oct 8, 2009 12:55 PM

                      They have them, and are currently my favorite in the NoVa area.

                    2. g
                      Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 10:24 AM

                      Just wanted to add that I've heard that the saltenas at El Antojito, a Bolivian carryout in Olney are fabulous.

                      5 Replies
                      1. re: Gigi007
                        w
                        WestEnderJMU Oct 8, 2009 12:56 PM

                        I just forwarded this over to some Bolivian relatives who live about 15 minutes from there on Route 108. I'll let you know if we get another report.

                        1. re: WestEnderJMU
                          c
                          comestibles Oct 8, 2009 01:06 PM

                          El Antojito has been reported on before.

                          http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/610254

                        2. re: Gigi007
                          Trip Klaus Oct 8, 2009 05:57 PM

                          Excuse my ignorance but from what I can see on the menu at El Antojito (which I will visit in the next few days) the difference between saltenas and empanadas seems to be the empanadas are fried and the saltenas are baked. What are the differences?

                          1. re: Trip Klaus
                            s
                            Steve Oct 8, 2009 06:59 PM

                            DId you take a look at the link I provided above? there is a picture of what a really good saltena looks like.

                            Empanadas are sometimes fried, sometimes baked. I have never had a good fried empanada, so I guess I prefer mine baked - with a flaky pie crust. Saltenas are always baked, but the saltenas around here do not have a flaky crust.

                            1. re: Trip Klaus
                              g
                              Gigi007 Oct 8, 2009 07:22 PM

                              Hi TK, Steve's description of saltenas above is a pretty good one (with the caveat that I see the filling as more of a thick stew than a soup). Saltenas are football-shaped savory pastries that are baked, while empanadas (depending on the country) take various shapes (triangular in the case of Chilean empanadas and half-moon shaped for Argentine empanadas) and are baked or fried. The dough is also different with the saltena's being slightly sweet, sometimes with a flaky crust. The dough/crust for empanadas depending on the country can vary as well. Chilean empanadas, for ex, usually have a thick dough and not a flaky crust.

                              I haven’t eaten Bolivian empanadas so I don’t know much about them, but have had a lot of Chilean empanadas which are usually baked (typical filling: ground beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, raisins, and onions), Argentine empanadas that have been fried, and some Bolivian saltenas (baked).

                              Looking at the description on El Antojito's menu, it sounds like El Antiojito’s empanadas are fried. I would guess that they are also drier like most empanadas compared to the saltenas.

                              P.S. You may find these links helpful and;or interesting:

                              http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn/A55539-2001Apr23?language=printer

                              http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salte%C3...

                          2. monavano Oct 8, 2009 01:33 PM

                            Sounds like there are many saltena experts here, at least saltena lovers like me! I've tried several in the area, and agree with the poster who likes Pikes. Tutto Bene's is also great.
                            Marcella's Bakery in Del Ray/Arlandria on Mt. Vernon Ave makes very good saltenas. Chicken or beef. They also sell at the Del Ray farmers market in season.
                            Interestingly, I noticed that they started calling them empanadas instead of saltenas. They fly off the table with the name change. I think it's a familiarity thing perhaps, with people being more familiar with empanadas.

                            13 Replies
                            1. re: monavano
                              c
                              chowsearch Oct 11, 2009 01:36 PM

                              Sounds like time for The Saltena Smackdown so everyone can reconcile the national differences with direct observation.

                              1. re: chowsearch
                                s
                                Steve Oct 11, 2009 03:00 PM

                                It's a good idea, although I am not sure which place I would point to as serving a great saltena right now. They used to at El Pike, but on my visit last week it was too sweet and they had obviously cut down or eliminated the olives and hard boiled egg and spices, so I was disappointed.

                                I rate almost everything they serve at My Bakery as dead last.

                                1. re: Steve
                                  c
                                  chowsearch Oct 11, 2009 03:57 PM

                                  My Bakery's branches managers didn't seem so nice to the counter staff. Occasionally an item would be fresh and good if I hit it just right at the Wisconsin Ave. location. When many were discussing MD pollo places which were largely tiny, spread out, changed over time of day and confusing, we had a virtual smackdown, many went to the places we could find and reported back until we got tired of it and found there were many great places with variations in turnover, parking and taste...we reached a sort of crowdsourced recognition of the whole genre. I even still like pollo.

                                  1. re: Steve
                                    z
                                    Ziv Oct 12, 2009 05:42 AM

                                    A Saltena Smackdown would be a good time, but I think Steve has a point. There isn't a place that I have been lately that was all that good. La Caraquena is good, but it has prices that make the meal a bitter pill of sorts. Pike just isn't that good any more, my last couple there have been overcooked and missing the complexity that olives and egg and spices should give it. I like Luzmilla's chicken saltena but they just weren't all that.
                                    We need a new champion in the Saltena competition!
                                    LOL

                                    1. re: Ziv
                                      c
                                      CoconutMilk Oct 12, 2009 07:00 AM

                                      i just did a tasting for fallschurchtimes.com (which is why i posted the original query)...i'm not claiming it's the final say on the issue, but I think eating from several places over a few day period leads to some good insight.

                                      As i stated in an earlier post, my conclusion was that pike pizza, luzmila's, and la caraquena all dish out a good saltena. tutto bene and my bakery are ok. I didnt even include El Pike in the article because i didnt care for theirs.

                                      also, if this means anything, the salsa verde at la caraquena is leaps and bounds above every other place...though i tend to prefer to eat my saltenas without the green sauce in most cases even though i love spicy food.

                                      1. re: CoconutMilk
                                        s
                                        Steve Oct 12, 2009 07:18 AM

                                        I agree about the salsa verde at La Caraquena. Also important is that some places serve the salsa ice box cold which is lousy on warm food.

                                        Most Peruvian places in the area make a far better salsa verde than their Bolivian counterparts in NoVa.

                                        1. re: Steve
                                          z
                                          Ziv Oct 12, 2009 11:18 AM

                                          Steve, good news, this problem has been identified by the CIA and Centcom and they have released the following report on the Saltena issue, it seems to come down firmly on your side of the soupy vs. stewy debate, but it is good to see that they are taking this seriously...
                                          http://issuu.com/markow/docs/how_to_e...
                                          That was actually a pretty funny take on the saltena fracas.

                                          1. re: Ziv
                                            s
                                            Steve Oct 12, 2009 11:28 AM

                                            ...and I thought I had too much time on my hands! That is very funny. At least now I know just how complicated the strategy is. I'll have to print this out and refer to it the next time i'm having a saltena. Thanks for finding it.

                                        2. re: CoconutMilk
                                          g
                                          Gigi007 Oct 12, 2009 09:26 AM

                                          Of the places mentioned, I've only tried Luzmila's saltenas. I have Bolivian friends who are kind enough to share their homemade goodies with me, so I don't often get them at restaurants. Some of these friends have told me that on the rare occasions that they buy them at restaurants, they like Luzmila's and La Caraquena's. They don't like My Bakery.

                                          I also prefer to eat saltenas without the salsa verde although I love it on Peruvian chicken.

                                  2. re: monavano
                                    d
                                    DPGood Oct 13, 2009 11:39 AM

                                    Macela's Bakery on Mt. Vernon Ave. in Arlandria(?) are better than those found n Bolivia. The lady who makes them is from Bolivia and, yes, they sell them at the Farmer's market in Del Ray on Saturdays where, happily, we "discovered: them. Yum!

                                    1. re: DPGood
                                      monavano Oct 13, 2009 12:07 PM

                                      Is it Marcella's or Macela's? At any rate...you folks should try them!

                                      1. re: monavano
                                        s
                                        Steve Nov 2, 2009 04:23 PM

                                        I tried Macela's. Good stuff, about the same as Pike Pizza or the Pan American Bakery (next door to Pike Pizza).

                                        1. re: Steve
                                          c
                                          CoconutMilk Jan 3, 2010 07:38 AM

                                          Went to Pan American Bakery today for the first time and had one beef and one chicken saltena. Both were really, really good--perhaps the best I've had outside of la caraquena.

                                          These saltenas had a few things going for them...they were a little bigger than average....the fillings were way more generous than typical saltenas, which usually have a pocket of air...the fillings were nicely spiced with a good amount of heat...and, lastly, the crust wasnt overly sweet.

                                          Only downside was the texture of the crust, which was good not great, a little too bready IMO.

                                          Nevertheless, a worthy saltena. Other pastry items, soups, and breads looked very promising and the place was PACKED with Bolivians.

                                  3. Dennis S Oct 15, 2009 03:52 PM

                                    So no report on Victor's?

                                    I tried My Bakery today. Agree with other posts here - good taste, but not soupy. Had an empanada as well but that was very disappointing - hardly anything inside the big puff of bread. Their offerings are hard to understand - the menu online is vast, but I only saw the pics on the wall above the register (Bailey's location). Service was good, though.

                                    1. n
                                      naxos Oct 25, 2009 11:10 AM

                                      Cinthia's Bakery
                                      (Baileys Crossroads- Columbia Pike between Pollo Campero and Papa Johns)

                                      Newly opened Bolivian bakery and cafe-- Only 4 tables, cash only limitied menu which is posted on a whiteboard in the window, I hope Steve will try it soon.

                                      Saltenas and many other baked goods including empanadas and sweet breads as well as fancy cakes.- also soups and meat platters.

                                      Went yesterday and they were full and the wait fro saltenas was 45 minutes.

                                      Returned today- IMHO excellent saltenas de pollo- big- football shaped hard shell, very tasty and soupy stew inside- served with a spoon on a shallow plate but eaten in the Bolivian style- wrapped in napkin- held in hand- open one small end to let the steam escape and patiently waiting for the filling to cool and nibbling til done. Delicious and filling @ 2.50 per. I finished mine without leaking or needing a second napkin.They have saltenas de carne as well but I didnt try one. The dough was pretty sweet but delicious nonetheless.

                                      We also had a bowl of sopa di mani-- served in a large bowl with red sauce on the side- the salsa was tasty- lots of flavors and a good amount of heat. Everything was freshly cooked and HUGE.
                                      The place only opened a couiple of weeks ago and it seems popular with Bolivian families.

                                      1 Reply
                                      1. re: naxos
                                        s
                                        Steve Nov 2, 2009 04:20 PM

                                        I went by Cinthia's but was told saltenas are available only on weekends.

                                      2. s
                                        Steve Jan 4, 2010 08:01 AM

                                        Slowly but surely I've been doing my own saltena survey. I have yet to get the weekend-only saltenas at Tutto Bene or Cinthia's. there is also a little place on Wilson about a block from Ballston, used to be called Las Tunas, but now looks remodeled.

                                        Luzmillas: #1, almost perfect, probably as good as you'll get without going to Bolivia. Eaten at noon, near when they open. Ordered beef. Hot, gushing with liquid, spicy, and plenty of good ingredients. Be careful eating these.

                                        La Caraquena: Best for the pastry. Truly excellent. The interior is a bit coagulated, but fine ingredients all around.

                                        El Pike; the Sweetest, unfortunately, but appropriately soupy. May not be to everyone's taste.

                                        Pike Pizza, Pan American, Macela's: All about the same. Good stuff.

                                        I am finding now that most places make a beef saltena that is more savory than the chicken, so that has become my default.

                                        2 Replies
                                        1. re: Steve
                                          monavano Jan 4, 2010 08:18 AM

                                          I agree about the beef saltenas being more assertive than chicken. I still flip-flop, depending on my mood that day!

                                          1. re: Steve
                                            k
                                            kashmere28 Jan 26, 2010 10:51 AM

                                            My family is very picky when it comes to buying Bolivian "take-out" because we look for the authenticity of the dish as if it were prepared in Bolivia (no skimping on the salt or any of the ingredients) and it has to overall meet our tastebud needs. Thus said, we only buy Luzmillas. Their jugo de durazno is delicious as well.

                                          2. s
                                            Steve Jan 26, 2010 02:04 PM

                                            Continuing on my saltena kick, aided by my daughter who spent some time in school studying Bolivian food (5th grade in Arlington).

                                            Cecelia's on Columbia Pike. This was my first time here although this place has been prominent in the Bolivian community for ages. They have a nightclub setup in the evenings.
                                            They offer a combo beef and chicken saltena. I waited for the saltena, and it was worth it. Excellent. Juicy, hot, savory.

                                            Tutto Bene. They offer beef and chicken. They come out quite a bit different. The beef was loaded with meat. The chicken came out spicier and juicier, probably the spiciest saltena I've had recently.

                                            Both Ceceila's and Tutto Bene rival Luzmilla's for the best saltenas around.

                                            2 Replies
                                            1. re: Steve
                                              c
                                              CoconutMilk Jan 26, 2010 05:47 PM

                                              How did you feel about the crust at Tutto Bene? I've found it to be too sweet in my few visits there long ago. Perhaps I should give them another shot.

                                              1. re: CoconutMilk
                                                s
                                                Steve Jan 26, 2010 07:38 PM

                                                Not as sweet as El Pike (of course) but also maybe less sweet than Pike Pizza, Pan American, and Macela's. The darkest ridge of any saltena so far, more like the pictures I've seen of saltenas from Bolivia.

                                                But who knows? Maybe all these places are inconsistent. The difference in the filling from beef to chicken at Tutto Bene was striking.

                                            2. s
                                              Steve Mar 22, 2010 06:44 AM

                                              After my third attempt at Cinthia's, I finally got to try their saltenas, one beef and one chicken. They are only served on weekends and may not last into the late afternoon.

                                              These are the most dangerous saltenas around. I got there a little before noon, and they were served super duper boiling hot. Despite my carefulness, the hot liquid came gushing out the wrong end. Do not eat these without protective gear!

                                              The dough is a bit sweet. They are not spicy at all. Lots of good meat and other ingredients inside. They fall into the middle of the pack.

                                              I sat at the same table as a rather elegant Bolivian gentleman. He explained to me that, as a teenger, he would get saltenas with his friends as a mid-morning snack. The first one to spill any juice would buy the next round. But even he had to resort to the dish/spoon approach here.

                                              I generally prefer the beef. My latest ranking (by group) is:

                                              Cecilia's
                                              Tutto Bene (chicken) - but the rest of the food is only average.
                                              Luzmilla's

                                              La Caraquena (added props for the best pastry)

                                              Cinthia's

                                              El PIke

                                              Pike Pizza
                                              Macela's
                                              Pan American Bakery

                                              They are ALL good.

                                              4 Replies
                                              1. re: Steve
                                                n
                                                naxos Mar 22, 2010 07:13 AM

                                                Steve

                                                I think they are hot because each time I have tried them, they are freshly cooked. Hot sauce served on the side. i will have to brach out- but Cinthia's is so close to home . IMHO chicken is my favorite.

                                                1. re: naxos
                                                  s
                                                  Steve Mar 22, 2010 08:53 AM

                                                  The guy from Bolivia had a few interesting comments. He said that saltenas are cooked at extremely high temps in Bolivia causing the top ridge to blacken. You would not be served one that is congealed. It is mostly for eating between breakfast and lunch. He also said that the green chile sauce served here is unlike what you get in Bolivia. There it is made fresh to order and has tomato in it. The ones here are simplified and made in big batches.

                                                2. re: Steve
                                                  s
                                                  shortorder2 Mar 22, 2010 02:55 PM

                                                  I have a problem with Pan American Bakery. I have been in there six or eight times looking for saltenas, and they are always out. what is the right time of day to get those suckers at Pan American Bakery?

                                                  1. re: shortorder2
                                                    s
                                                    Steve Mar 22, 2010 03:39 PM

                                                    I've had them in the morning. They are definitely a mid-morning thing. Though I think it was midweek early morning (8:15am) when I had them last.

                                                3. woodleyparkhound May 24, 2011 12:34 PM

                                                  I've been dying to try saltenas for a couple of years now and finally got my chance last weekend when I went with a friend to Tutto Bene on Sunday and asked for the Bolivian menu. We each got one chicken and one beef. I must say, I was really, really disappointed -- and surprised to be disappointed. I thought I'd love saltenas, but really didn't like them much at all. I agree with Coconut Milk upthread, who felt that the crust was too sweet. That was my main problem with them. I also thought the pastry was leaden - it reminded me of British pastry, not a happy memory. The filling was stodgy and uninteresting, although I thought the chicken was better than the beef. They were served lukewarm; I wish they'd been hotter and jucier.

                                                  I had never had saltenas before, so I can't compare these to any others. I don't plan to seek others out though, based on my experience with these. Either it was an off day at Tutto Bene or I'm really missing something.

                                                  The female singer was quite annoying, but the guitar player who followed her was fun to listen to.

                                                  I'll give them one thing though - this was a cheap meal. Two saltenas with tax and tip comes to around $8 - $9.

                                                  7 Replies
                                                  1. re: woodleyparkhound
                                                    s
                                                    Steve May 24, 2011 01:35 PM

                                                    La Caraquena has a better pastry, so maybe you would like that, but it sounds to me you are turned off by the sweetness in the pastry and the interior was not spicy enough to offset that for you.

                                                    They should be served very hot and juicy. Those saltenas congealed on you.

                                                    1. re: Steve
                                                      woodleyparkhound May 24, 2011 07:55 PM

                                                      Right on all counts: I'd like better pastry, I was turned off by the sweetness, it wasn't spicy enough and they had congealed.

                                                      1. re: woodleyparkhound
                                                        Dennis S May 25, 2011 03:52 AM

                                                        Did they also offer the green sauce to add spice? I learned recently (and posted) that the Tutto Bene Saltenas are made by the woman at Betty's Grill in Sterling. Based on what I was told, I *think she makes them there, and thus they probably congeal on the way to TB.

                                                        Frankly I've only been a moderate fan of saltenas until I went to Betty's directly. Hot fresh and certainly not congealed. Perhaps the dough was sweet (which if it stood out I wouldn't have liked) but I couldn't tell due to the hot nice soup inside. Also, there was much more filling than the now-defunct My Bakery, which left me wanting.

                                                        -----
                                                        My Bakery & Cafe
                                                        3839 Mount Vernon Ave, Alexandria, VA 22305

                                                        1. re: Dennis S
                                                          woodleyparkhound May 25, 2011 05:15 AM

                                                          Yes, they did have a sauce on the side, which helped. They would certainly be improved if they were eaten right after they emerged from the oven, but I think I would still have the "sweet dough" problem.

                                                          1. re: woodleyparkhound
                                                            Dennis S May 25, 2011 06:54 AM

                                                            FWIW I absolutely HATE mixing savories and sweets, but the saltenas at Betty's were great - but only fresh. I had a few bites later and got the sweet taste. So I do think it's indicative of freshness, etc.

                                                            Also, to repost a bit more, Betty's has a full menu that looked pretty good, and there is another place across Rt. 7 that does saltenas and has a full menu.

                                                        2. re: woodleyparkhound
                                                          m
                                                          MikeR May 25, 2011 08:03 AM

                                                          I've only had saltenas at the now gone My Bakery near Bailey's Crossroads. I remember the pastry as being on the sweet side, but the filling was always hot and liquid. They served them out of a lamp-heated case but I never saw more than a few in the case at a time so either they were always close to sold out or they re-stocked from the kitchen as needed.

                                                          They were good as is, but better with the hot sauce. Steve used to praise the saltenas at El Pike in Willston (I think that's the one) but I've never tried them there. Maybe when the weather gets cool again (in July? <g> )

                                                          -----
                                                          El Pike Restaurant
                                                          6138 Arlington Blvd, Falls Church, VA 22044

                                                          1. re: MikeR
                                                            s
                                                            Steve May 25, 2011 09:31 AM

                                                            Unfortunately the ones at El Pike are now pretty far down on my list. Luzmilla's is the place I am most likely to end up, especially if I can get there around noon.

                                                            -----
                                                            El Pike Restaurant
                                                            6138 Arlington Blvd, Falls Church, VA 22044

                                                    2. woodleyparkhound Jul 12, 2011 11:44 AM

                                                      I had the chance to try saltenas on Sunday at Luzmila's with some friends. The place was packed around 2:30 when we arrived with Bolivians who were thoroughly engrossed in the soccer match. It made for a festive atmosphere.

                                                      I thought Luzmila's saltenas were much better than Tutto Bene. They were much less sweet and also fresher. (We saw huge trays of them coming out of the kitchen and they were served very hot.) I thought the chicken was much better than the beef and they are hugely helped along by the salsa verde. Without it, they are way too bland for my taste. I loved that the chicken one had black olive (1) and egg (1 small piece). I think more of both would have been an improvement. I've learned I'm not a huge fan of saltenas, but I was very glad to have the opportunity to try them.

                                                      I really liked the corn pudding with cheese in the middle, steamed in a banana leaf. It seemed too sweet for an appetizer though. I liked it better as a dessert.

                                                      The vegetable soup that they make only on weekends seemed quite ordinary - nothing special. I really liked the peanut soup though.

                                                      I also tried the dried peach drink. Way too sweet for me, but as it was completely new to me, I enjoyed trying it.

                                                      It was a good lunch and a fun time, but I don't think I'd rank Bolivian food among my favorites.

                                                      1 Reply
                                                      1. re: woodleyparkhound
                                                        monavano Jul 12, 2011 11:57 AM

                                                        I don't like a too-sweet crust. Just a little and I get really bummed if I don't find olives in mine. I need the salt with that crust.

                                                      Show Hidden Posts