Chowing with the Hounds 2009 Picnic Recipe Requests
The 9th annual picnic yesterday was a delicious success.
This is the place to call out requests for recipes and post your dish.
For me David Boyk's carrot pudding based on Diana Kennedy's is a perennial crowd pleaser. When I'm off mobile and back on laptop, I'll search for his old posting of the recipe, though I'd swear it was even more buttery and rich this iteration.
ditto on the carrot pudding! I agree that it seemed richer, but I was wondering if that was because I was heavy handed with the nut topping :-) David mentioned in passing that there is a pea version...would love that recipe also...
Cece: can you tell us the secrets behind your deviled eggs, particularly the one with potato, and the other version with masala?
The baked goods I brought (a german chocolate coffee ring, apricot/marsipan coffee ring, and various cookies) were from Hanna's Kuchenhaus Bakery in Modesto. A find that I found thanks to a tip from Windy. I plan to post about it on the California board as well, and return soon to check out more of their cakes and cookies. Prices were quite reasonable bordering on cheap, they have coffee and espresso drinks, and are just two or three blocks of a detour off of my favorite route from Merced to San Francisco, so a perfect pit stop and definitely worthy of attention from the Modesto hounds. To fortify me for the drive from Merced, I got one of their pecan sweet rolls, just out of the oven. Unbelievable decadence. It tasted even more buttery than David's carrot pudding!
Thank you for a wonderful picnic. Here's the basics for my eggs.
Base: 48 hard boiled egg yolks and some whites that didn't peel nicely; mustard of your choice (I use a dry mustard and dijon comination); fresh squeezed lemon juice; salt and pepper :
Traditional; add mayonnaise; some white vinegar; sweet pickle relish and top with paprika sprinkles
Smoked salmon: puree smoked salmon and boiled pototoes; olive oil and diced chives and fresh dill; topping: salmon mousse (more pureed salmon w/ cream cheese, sour cream and diced fresh dill)
Curry: Yellow curry paste; olive oil; sour cream. Toppings: home made garam masala
Caviar: sour cream and mayonaise; green onions. Topping: red caviar.
Loved, loved, loved your Cuban roast pork and especially the sour orange mojo, please share!
Here's a link to Nick "nja" version of the carrot pudding,
and here's link to David Boyk's original posting for Budín de Zanahoria (Carrot Pudding) from 2005,
re: Melanie Wong
Glad to share.
Cuban Pork Roast
The first thing you have to do is secure a pork leg, skin and bone intact, from a happy pig. Golden Gate Meats was able to get me one with a day's notice. I used a 9-pound piece from the shank end. I'm sure you could use a picnic roast, too. Or a suckling pig like they do in the islands...
Next, come to Berkeley for sour oranges. There's a tree on Piedmont Avenue between Dwight and Parker, south of campus, and the renters don't mind you picking them. They're small--it takes about ten to get a cup of juice. Failing that, you can wait until the Seville orange season begins around January. Or you can substitute lime juice mixed with a little orange juice, but I can't vouch for the results.
When you get your loot home, manhandle your pork leg. Make lots of deep slits in the skin, to the meat, large enough for you to stick your pinky in. Reach between the muscles to make some pockets. Feel around and separate the skin from the meat where you can (but don't detach it). Then make your adobo, which you can pound in a mortar or blitz in a mini-processor:
1 head of garlic
1 t black peppercorns
2T mexican oregano
6 bay leaves, crumbled
1T olive oil
Give the pork a deep-tissue massage with the adobo, working it into the slits and pockets and between the meat and skin everywhere you can. Then make the wet marinade:
1 cup sour orange juice
1/3 cup dry sherry
1 onion sliced pole-to-pole into slivers
Put the pork and the marinade into a BIG ziploc bag or into a container where it's a tight fit, so the marinade comes halfway up the roast. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Put the roast and the marinade in a smallish roasting pan (I used a 12" cast-iron skillet) with the bone sticking straight up if you can. Roast it in a low oven for a lot of hours. I started it at 275 for about five hours, then turned it down to 225 for another five. Baste it with the juices when you think of it. The skin should become a beautiful black drape of crackling.
When it's "done" (maybe 185 on a meat thermometer, but you really shouldn't worry about it--better overdone than underdone for this guy), remove and de-fat the pan juices, then put them in your serving vessel with the roast. (I ended up with a cup of pork fat bounty.) Let it cool a bit and hack it up, making sure everybody gets some crackling. Serve with the pan juices, and with mojo criollo if you had enough sour orange juice to make some.
1/3 cup olive oil
5 fat garlic cloves, sliced
1 1/2 cups sour orange juice
1/4 cup white vinegar
1 t mexican oregano
1/2 t cumin
1 t salt
1/2 t ground black pepper
1 or 2 dried chilies, optional
1 or 2 culantro leaves, optional (or substitute 1/4 cup cilantro, minced)
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan that looks a little deeper than you need. When it's hot, add the garlic, and fry it until it's pretty brown, but not burnt--watch it closely. Then add everything but the culantro (it'll sizzle a lot) and bring it to a rolling boil. Let it cool, then pour it through a funnel into a bottle, preferably one with a control-release top like an old soy sauce bottle. Add the culantro and refrigerate. Shake before using.
heidipie--I was watching you cut up the pork leg, and you seemd to slice right down pretty evenly. What is the anatomy of a leg--was there just the shank bone on the smaller side of the roast?
very good indeed! (and I love you scavenger's report on the sour orange location--just my style, too!)
Rat, I'm so glad you enjoyed the cornbread! The recipe is so ridiculously simple that I'm really embarrassed to post the recipe. But I'm happy to share since you asked.
I scaled the recipe to make 20 servings for the picnic. I've made it a couple of times now for various group gatherings and have rarely taken home leftovers. I've always used the full amount of sugar called for in the recipe, but next time, I plan to use less sugar, as I find the cornbread a bit too sweet for my taste.
the goodies were tj's dried and chili-ed mango, sunflower seeds, feta cheese.
the dressing (Chris is still getting back to me on the exact flavored vinegar--basil-raspberry?) was a vinaigrette made from her own Tiber Canyon Meyer Lemon EV Olive Oil and the Chaparral Gardens vinegar, plus S&P to taste.
It was simple and refreshing with clean and complex flavors.
re: toodie jane
Here is a recipe for the salad from Chris who made it:
"About the salad. The brand of vinegar is pretty important. We had some [other] raspberry vinegar that Will used in a dressing recently and it didn’t even come close. We are SO spoiled with Chaparral Gardens’ vinegars. They are available on line....
Mixed greens, with plenty of spicy ones including arugula
Crumbled feta cheese
Sunflower seeds, roasted, not salted
Dried chili-coated mangos, diced (Trader Joe’s)
Make the dressing with
Raspberry Basil Vinegar from Chaparral Gardens
Yuzu Olive Oil from Tiber Canyon Ranch (oops, not meyer lemon--tj)
Salt to taste, and freshly ground pepper..."
That's it, pretty easy, but quality of ingredients is important.
re: Melanie Wong
Melanie, can you post the recipe for your delicious dish please? and thanks for posting this one--it was a favorite of mine.
(We stayed in Berkeley just down the street from the Indian provisions shop on University. Wow--what a treasure trove. Stocked up on papadoms and cumin, plus ground ginger for my TJ's Triple Ginger Cookies recipe adaptation.)
thanks again BA ChowHosts, for allowing us to all share a wonderful day!
re: toodie jane
I made Sicilian caponata. I prefer the style that shows its Moorish influence with more exotic elements. Here's Mario Batali's recipe that will give you the basic proportions.
And, of course, mine is a little different. I don't use cocoa powder. Instead of currants, I use golden seedless raisins and double the proportion. For fresh herbs, I had basil and oregano on hand, as well as thyme, so included those. I had fresh San Marzano tomatoes as well as some roasted ones, so chopped those up with some garlic instead of using tomato sauce. I prefer to use honey rather than sugar for the sweet-sour and added a little orange zest.
Two additions are capers and fennel. I coarsely chop the fennel bulb, sauteing it briefly just to soften it a little but retain some crunch. I do NOT substitute celery. Include some of the fennel fronds for flavor too. I also used Asian eggplant rather than globe. I cut them into chunks, microwave for 5 mins to parcook, then saute them. I find I get a better browning, more even cooking, and less mush this way.
Then let it rest overnight in the refrigerator. The flavor is much richer the next day. Then add chopped fresh mint at serving time.
re: toodie jane
i used Asian eggplants so left the skin on. It helps maintain the integrity of the eggplant chunks so the whole thing doesn't turn into mush when you mix it. That's one reason I like to microwave the eggplant as well, it doesn't get as beat up as when you just saute' it to cook through.
I made apple pies with gruyere crusts. The crust was based on this recipe http://www.kingarthurflour.com/recipe... except that I really love Rose Levy Berenbaum's cream cheese crust, so I did a combo. So for one pie crust, it was basically:
2 cups (8 ounces) Flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (4 ounces) shredded gruyee
2.5 ounces butter
1.5 ounces cream cheese
2 ish ounces ice water
I tend to err on the side of less water for pie crusts, but this one is one where you really should use all 2 ounces of the ice water; the cheese makes for a really stiff crust, and I found that the batch where I accidentally used more water than I wanted to rolled out a lot easier than the other batch. Whisk together the flour and salt, then put it in a food processor with cold butter, then drop in the cream cheese and cheese, then drizzle in the water. Roll into a ball and let rest in the fridge for an hour or overnight.
For the apples, I just used apples, lemon juice, sugar, salt and cornstarch, I felt like cinnamon and other spices wouldn't work with the cheese crust. I generally used RLB's proportions and instructions for the apples, though I slightly underestimated how many apples to buy, so mine were a little scanty on the apples. Per pie, it should be about 2 pounds of peeled and sliced apples, a tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/4 cup each of brown and granulated sugar (just under 2 ounces each), 2 tablespoons of butter, a dash of salt, and a tablespoon plus a teaspoon of cornstarch. Combine the apples with the lemon juice, sugars and salt, and let sit at room temp for 30 minutes to 3 hours. Then drain the liquid into a saucepan and boil down the liquid with the butter until it's syrupy. While this is boiling down, toss the apples with the cornstarch. When the syrup is ready, pour it over the apples and toss.
Roll out the pie crust into two 12 or so inch circles; put one into a 9 inch pie crust and fill with apples, and top with the second crust. Brush with milk or cream. Bake at 425 for 15 minutes, then turn down to 375 for 45 minutes.
Someone brought that to a work Thanksgiving luncheon a few years ago...and I remember being blown away by it...but it's hard for me to introduce "new" dishes at Thanksgiving dinner for my sons...they kill me with their "no, it must be like you always USED to make it" attitudes. I may still try to sneak it in this year...LOL...even if I'm the only one who eats it. Not sure if it's the same exact recipe but oh! It was so light and delicious! She may have called it "carrot souffle" as a matter of fact. I will ask her next week!