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Uhockey reviews Enoteca San Marco at The Venetian

uhockey Sep 29, 2009 06:42 PM

Full post with pics here: http://uhockey.blogspot.com/2009/09/s...

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Finally arriving in Vegas and calling ahead to push back plans (both lunch and dinner) I checked my bags and made it to my first food destination – Enoteca San Marco. Having purchased a $25 restaurant.com voucher for a mere $4 weeks before traveling and already having lunch plans for the subsequent days I had it on good word that this trip would be worth it and after great meals at Babbo, Otto, and Mozza in the past I more or less knew what to expected.

Seated canal-side in the beautiful Venetian where we were staying, ESM’s pseudo-sky and interesting street performers add an appealing feel to the already “cool-casual” approach of the restaurant and arriving in the lunch/dinner break I was seated immediately, handed a menu and explained the specials, and given water and bread. Similar to Otto the bread entailed a hard/crusty bread that was clearly pre-made alongside pre-packaged Barbaro bread sticks. No butter, no olive oil – pretty boring.

With many menu items looking/sounding excellent I knew I needed to spend $50 to use the gift card but was equally aware of my reservations at Joel Robuchon six hours later. Selecting carefully I opted for a salad, a contorti, a fritti, and a pizza – trying to save from for dessert. Arriving first, my contorti dish consisted of 8 large figs “agrodolce” cured in balsamic vinegar – at only $6 the dish was a steal and tasted wonderful with the sweetness of the figs proving a substantial match for the sour and acidic vinegar. No pits, no stems, soft flesh and crispness to the skin – all told, excellent.

Waiting only a short time my next arrival was the salad – or at least the dish listed as a salad. Entitled Due Uova the plate was certainly overpriced at $14 but the taste/flavor certainly made up for it. Featuring a creamy and rich risotto cake flash fried and filled with cheese the dish was next topped with a farm fresh hen-egg served sunny side and then accented with an ample portion of mullet bottarga – hence the “two eggs.” Textural and rich the dish shined despite its price tag and once again showed off Batali’s skill with eggs.

Arriving next was my pizza and fried item. First off, Zucchini Blossoms with Picorino Fritti consisted of five flavorful and lightly fried blossoms loaded with a zesty pecorino that melted just enough to give contrast. Light and sweet to complement the savory cheese, the blossoms were actually more fragrant that I was used to and had a great “aftertaste” that lingered on the palate.

Finishing the blossoms I suddenly realized just how large the pizzas were and knowing I A) needed to spend $50 to use my certificate, B) wanted dessert, and C) had the previously mentioned dinner in a few hours I decided to only eat half the pizza – a half that turned into 4/6 of the pizza plus all of the toppings from the remaining slices after a couple bites. Featuring a perfect and buttery cracker crust topped with pulled Ham hock, braised Endive, ricotta, and mozzarella the pizza was stated to be a daily special and it was incredible – possibly the best pizza I’ve had in a couple of years. Smoky and savory yet sweet the ham was wonderfully tender while the crispy endive proved a nice foil with its mildly pungent tones. The blend of cheeses worked well to accent the toppings without overwhelming, something I’ve found Batali’s team particularly skilled at in past experiences.

Allowing my servers to clear the table (at this point inexplicably still holding the plates of every dish I’d consumed) and to finally refill my water (only 1 refill during the 70 minute meal) I watched the “Street performers” while awaiting my dessert. Feeling somewhat full I decided against the “dessert du jour” – profiteroles, and instead opted for one of Enoteca’s signature gelato sundaes - Concord Grape Sorbetto, Peanut Butter Gelato, Peanut Butter Cookie, frozen Concord Grapes. Presented beautifully with a small gelato trowel I proceeded to crumble up the cookie and take a taste. First impressed by the incredibly “grape-like” flavor of the sorbet and its tart almost wine-like aroma I next took a bite of the smooth and creamy gelato – literally like a blend of butter and peanut butter but cold. Finally, mixing the two – heaven – like the best peanut butter and jelly you’ve never had.

When it was all said and done my total bill came out to $57, or $35ish including my certificate – quite frankly, a steal for a Batali meal and especially in such a unique setting. While clearly not as “refined” as Babbo or Mozza, I actually liked the atmosphere and food at Enoteca much more than that at Otto – I also didn’t have to wait for 2 hours for a seat. While service could have been better and prices perhaps slightly lower on the due uova, nothing was out of line and I’d certainly consider returning to Enoteca San Marco for a casual lunch on future visits to Vegas. Say what you will about Mario – the man does great things with cheese, pork, and eggs…perhaps a breakfast joint to compete with Bouchon is in order?

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    grimaldi RE: uhockey Sep 30, 2009 01:02 PM

    Great review. I take it you dined alone? I may find myself in a similar situation in a month, and also bought the $25 GC @ $4. Did they give you any problems with regards to the GC since / if you were alone? Anything you saw on the other tables, entrees and such, that maybe you would have liked to have ordered? I'd be going for lunch as well. The blossoms are a definite, pasta is a must, then maybe an entree. It's a lot of food, I know, but I'm a lot of man.

    2 Replies
    1. re: grimaldi
      uhockey RE: grimaldi Sep 30, 2009 04:02 PM

      Had I not had dinner reservations at Robuchon I'd have ordered the Duck. There was no issue with dining alone provided I spent the required $50.

      1. re: uhockey
        g
        grimaldi RE: uhockey Oct 1, 2009 09:41 PM

        Fantastic. I appreciate it. If I get the duck, I'll let you know how it was.

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