October honeymoon: Sunday/Monday in Bologna, Thursday in Umbria
My husband and I are spending the first two weeks of October in Italy for our honeymoon. We'll spend one night on Lake Como (planning to have lunch in Lenno and dinner in Bellagio), two nights in Emilia-Romagna, two nights in Rome, and one in Umbria. Then we'll slow down a bit and spend a week in Chianti...I'll probably ask for recommendations for that part in a different post.
I'd love recommendations for great restaurants in all the places we'll visit, but I have two specific questions.
We were planning to spend one night in Bologna and one elsewhere in Emilia-Romagna--preferably someplace in the countryside or a small town with fantastic food. We don't care where we go first (and could spend both nights in Bologna if that makes more sense) but are trying to arrange things around when we can get the best food. I've gotten lots of ideas from this board, but am looking for recommendations for places that will be open for lunch and/or dinner this Sunday and/or Monday.
After two days/nights in Rome (we're staying in Trastevere and have restaurant ideas but would love more recommendations) we want to spend next Thursday night in southern Umbria. Possibilities include Todi, Amelia, Orvieto--or an agriturismo with/near a good restuarant. This is the part of the trip (probably a day and a half, 1-2 lunches, 1 breakfast, 1 dinner) that I've researched the least, so all recommendations are welcome.
You may want to look into Arnaldo's Clinica Gastronomica in Rubiera.
Very convivial survey of delicious Emilian food, course after course, a civilized small hotel in a nice town, not picturesque but pleasant..
I think I recently read about ANOTHER place, maybe a good wine bar in the same town.
Another area to explore is the Bassa Parmense, the Po plains near Parma where the great regional pork delicacy, culatello, is made. there are a number of charming places in that area if you research, Il Cavallino Bianco and the associated lodging http://www.acpallavicina.com/ has amazing regional food and drink, but its only one of many possible eating and lodging destinations in the area which includes the charming town of Busseto and some historic sites related to Verdi.
Take a look at Faith Willinger and Fred Plotkins books - you will get lots of ideas for this region.If you want a town rather than country site, Mantova would also be a charming small city, with excellent distinct cuisine and major cultural attractions, to spend a night on your way to Bologna.
re: jen kalb
If you can get to the central part of Umbria, a great place to eat is the village of Monteflaco, home of the wold-renowned Sagrantino wine. Right off the main square in the village, is il Coccorone. One of the best meals we had in 2 weeks of traveling through Umbria. If you go there, don't miss the vine and if you have the time, many of the vineyards has tours and tastings. If you are a wine lover (or even liker) don't miss it.
Orvieto would be my choice for Umbria. The town is very walkable and the duomo is breathtaking.
Albergo Rosati (website available) is a few km south of the city. Excellent rooms and a dinner that goes on until the wine and grappa is gone. (He may not rent for one night, but its worth a try.)
My favorite restaurant in all of Italy is I Sette Consoli in Orvieto Alto. She had a star, but somehow lost it. Nevertheless, lunch under the tent and/or the tasting menu dinner are memorable.
For Umbria i recommend Locanda Rovicciano in Castel Ritaldi. It is a little hard to find but well worth it. Actually, if you stay in that area, you can enjoy the great wines in Montefalco, and then have dinner at Locanda Rovicciano.