655387 Sun Sep 27 18:06:22 -0700 2009 6 50 Spain/Portugal 0 5062718 Three girlfriends - okay, women of a certain age - are taking our engaged friend to Lisbon for a pre-wedding celebration. We've planned a four day weekend at the end of October, rented an apartment in the Chiado district, and told her to pack walking shoes! ( She has no idea of our destination- so much better than a shower, don't you think? ). So, I've been reading a lot of the recent posts about Lisbon - which are fabulous and have great suggestions - now I have a pretty good sense of where we'll want to eat. But something I could use some guidance on - we're all dedicated eaters and will mostly want to try the smaller low-key neighborhood places, BUT we need a restaurant for one grand dinner. Someplace for toasts and getting a bit dressed up, not stuffy, great food - it can be trendy or old school. Tasca de Esquina looks interesting, but I can't read their web page! Is it special enough? Thanks for your help with this and anything else you can think of recommending to four New York ladies visiting Lisbon! OTL Sun Sep 27 18:06:22 -0700 2009 64784 onthelam 1 5065296 Hi - I've posted quite a bit on Lisbon here in the last year, yet here might be some places for a special occasion. Sobral's new place, A Tasca da Esquina, is more focused on smaller plates (similar to Tapas) so I wouldn't suggest it for a special dinner. Some nicer places, albeit not stuffy, worth checking out are: Restaurante Tágide - Fantastic views with Luso-Franco cuisine. They also have a tea hour which might be nice if you decide to dine elsewhere. Restaurante Kaetano's - A new place with an innovative menu and cheap price fixe. Great wine list too! Via Graça - Also fantastic views with reliable food and good service. Contemporary Portuguese. Restaurante 33 - Laid back with a nice patio and contemporary Portuguese cuisine. Lisboa à Noite - Contemporary Portuguese; Great wine list and solid food. Nariz do Vinho Tinto - I finally tried this place a few months ago and I found it very enjoyable with excellent service. Brasserie Flo Lisboa - This is the restaurant at the Tivoli Lisboa Hotel on the Avenida da Liberdade. A very chic dining room which might be ideal for a toast. They also have a rooftop terrace restaurant which would also be a nice option. Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions. Boa Sorte! Mon Sep 28 17:14:00 -0700 2009 5062718 251260 vinhotinto75 1 5069657 Hi, I am a Lisboette myself, here are some tips where you can go for dinner: Pap'acorda (in bairro alto, so close to where you are staying) - true traditional portuguese food in a very hype vibe - it will cost you around 60-80 euros per person with wine included. Bica do Sapato - gorgeous restaurant by the river and if you want to dress up is a very cool place to go. They have 2 areas Cafeteria and Restaurant. Choose cafeteria, it is cheaper and where everyone goes (the restaurant is only for tourists). You should expect to spend around 30-40 euros per person with wine. Luca - my favourite restaurant in Lisbon, not as pretty/ trendy as the previous ones but great food, you can dress up, the service is excellent and the owner, Luca... well, see for yourself. They have a great cocktail bar as well where you can have nibles (free with drinks) while you wait for your table. Tasca da Esquina is good for portuguese food, but not for a girls night out.... but if you want a relaxed portuguese food restaurant go to Sinal Vermelho in Bairro Alto, the food is truly portuguese and DIVINE. It has a cool young vibe but is not fancy, at all. For the restaurants above you NEED to book in advance!! An extra tip for brunch and some portuguese food shopping - go to Delidelux - next to Bica do Sapato, very hype! Enjoy your stay in my beautiful city! Wed Sep 30 10:06:25 -0700 2009 5062718 1113083 racy211 1 5076971 For your celebration party, I would support Vinhotinto & the Tivoli. I think Bica do Sapato is OK but slightly past its prime, and if you are unlucky and there is a great ship parked in front of the windows (either cruise or warship), it does spoil the view! For the view, and the smart company, you could consider "Eleven", but only if you have a large budget and are not phased by snooty service. Look also at "Tavares Rico", I have not been recently, but have read good reviews since they re-opened (it used to be Lisbon "Maxim's"). Sat Oct 03 15:29:26 -0700 2009 5062718 179252 monchique 1 5081058 Thank you vinhotinto, racy and monchique! ( love that "Lisboette"! ). You've given me so much to work with - I'm trying to figure out how to fit in more meals! I've only done a quick look-up on the net, but Lisboa a Noite looks like a great menu, the Brasserie Flo is beautiful, but perhaps too French and the reiews of the service at Pap'acorda scared the hell out of me! I have to say, looking at the photos of Tavares Rico, it is very tempting just for the atmosphere, but I can imagine we'd be shushed pretty early in the evening! I will check back in with our decision. And Racy, thanks for the shopping tip. I love to bring home ingredients and cooking tools from travels - I use my dishmop from Madrid, my cheese grater from Naples and my favorite rubber jar opener from the market in Barcelona. Any place you would recommend in Lisbon? Thanks! OTL Mon Oct 05 16:12:21 -0700 2009 5062718 64784 onthelam 2 5081172 My favorite place to shop for culinary gadgets in Lisbon is called Braz & Braz in the Baixa on an alley like street called Travessa Nova de S. Domingos, 46. You can get some beautiful and cheap terracotta (Barro) items as well as some other cool gadgets. They have two stores on the same street - one is retail and the other caters for restaurants and hotels. There is also another small store next to the Braz & Braz location that also sells culinary equipment. Nearby is a restaurant and association, Casa do Alentejo which also has nice cheeses, olive oils, and nice/cheap handmade dishes, plates, olive oil cruets, etc. If you are looking for culinary delicacies, I would recommend places such as Charcutaria Brasil on Rua Alexandre Herculano; Confeitaria Nacional, Napoleão, Garrafeira Nacional, and others. Also, I would agree with Monchique that Bica do Sapato is overrated and past its prime. I had to go there a few months ago since colleagues made reservations and I was underwhelmed. Even Tavares Rico has French leanings, so I would recommend either Tágide or Brasserie Flo. Another place which is very nice, although not overly formal or chic as Lisboa à Noite, is their other restaurant (and neighbor); the classic Sinal Vermelho. Some people also recommend Café Buenos Aires, yet it is Argentine food and a VERY small place. Boa Sorte! Mon Oct 05 17:04:58 -0700 2009 5081058 251260 vinhotinto75 3 5203995 Well, too much time has past , and in fact the wedding we were heading to Lisboa to celebrate was this past weekend ( and I made the two wedding cakes, a three-tier lemon and a chocolate grooms cake, so I've been busy! ), so I am just getting a moment to report back. First, we had a great time in Lisbon, charming city and really lovely people - everyone we met was open and genuine. The apartment we rented was ideal - actually right across the street from Tavares Rico ( and that wonderful coffee store, Carioca I think, and right around the corner from Cafe Brasilia - sure was central! ) . So, for our big dinner we chose: ( drum roll! ) Lisboa a' Noite, and it was wonderful! It was one block over, so we got dressed up and walked over - with no reservation - and the fun began. " Can you accommodate us tonight?" " No, we are over-booked, it's impossible. We are full. Follow me, please." They were lovely, and the cute young waiters flirted with us just enough and then let us sit at our table for hours - we were shocked to realize it was one am when we were at our front door. It was also Halloween, and there was some revelry, which was nice. The food was wonderful - the stand-out was the grilled octopus, and some spicy sausage - the wines were good and affordable. I'm sorry to say that we had such an emotional and wonderfully sharing conversation about our lives and loves that I've forgotten the rest of the meal. But it was a perfect evening and I thank you for the recommendation. On Sunday - it was All Saints - we took the train to Sintra, and when we returned the weather turned. By the time we were walking out for dinner it had started to pour. We were about to cave in and just run into the cheesy-looking Fado review restaurant around the corner, when a cab pulled up and from somewhere in my brain I remembered -vinhotinto75 said via Gracia is open on Sunday night! So, not only was I the hero of the night for having a restaurant up my sleeve, but the setting is wonderful, the view, the table a big deep banquet, again, they were gracious and welcoming, and the food was very good - not quite as good as Lisboa a' Noite, but the whole experience of the place was great! From this evening I have photos. Two of us shared the seafood medley of clams, shrimp, and mussels, I ordered the octopus, which arrived with the sprig of rosemary in flames, then blown out and fanned over the dish ( ! ) and the biggest hit was the amuse, which was a cod/ brandade mixture on eggplant with shot glass of gaspacho floating a poached quail egg - fabulous! Other highlights: love the little pastries everywhere, great coffee, and thank you, brought home a few handy trinkets from Braz and Braz - OMG - I wish this store was near me - I loved it! Down side: while tasting chocolates out in the plaza in front of the elevator - Justine? - I've forgotten already, or perhaps blocked it out, - because I was relieved or my wallet, as in money, credit cards, and PASSPORT. That was a drag. ( Upside - where do you Liboans find all those cute policemen? Good grief, one was more charming than the next, and completely adorable, as well as helpful and reassuring. It was almost worth it! ). So it was a bit nerve-wracking all weeknd, wondering if I'd be getting on my flight Monday morning, but the consulate was efficient and calm, and set me up with a new passport in an hour ( and $70 from my friend ). So altogether I met up with exactly one bad person, so that's not really a bad percentage. So, thank you for all your help and we loved it! Mon Nov 23 18:48:30 -0800 2009 5081172 64784 onthelam