Experiencing Parisian and Provencial Living in a Week – Please Help!
My boyfriend and I are visiting Paris, Nice and Monaco in a week. Can you please advise me on our food plans? Our goal is to get a taste of Parisian and Provencial living in an affordable way, although we’re willing to splurge a bit if it’s something that shouldn’t be missed. We’ll be staying at an apt in the 16th arr in Paris. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thu 10/1: Crepe lunch in Latin Quarter (Le Pot O’Lait?); Dinner at Josephine “Chez Dumonet”
Fri 10/2: Visit Notre Dame Market to gather food for picnic lunch in Versailles' gardens; Dinner at either La Table d’Eugene or Frenchie (I really want to try Frenchie, but I’ll already be in Montmartre, so La Table is more convenient. Is Frenchie worth the trek after a long day?)
Sat 10/3: Visit Passy & President Wilson Markets to gather food for apt and picnic lunch in Musee Rodin's gardens; Dinner at Chez L’Ami Jean (How do I make reservations? I’ve emailed them, and been calling for the past few days with no answer.)
Sun 10/4: Visit Gerard Mulot for picnic lunch in Luxembourg Garden; Dinner at Chez Jenny
Mon 10/5: Suggestions for Haute cusine lunch prix fixe for under €50? (Do you recommend Dominique Bouchet, which I’ve heard is affordable, La Table de Joel Robuchon, which costs €55, or another restaurant? Guy Savoy and Le Cinq are obviously out of the question for us, as they cost €100.)
*Should we try L’as du Falafel, Wally Le Seharien or Le Café du Marche instead of picnic lunch one day or in place of Haute lunch?
**We’ll also try Berthillon (ice cream), Jacques Genin (chocolate), Dubois (cheese), Angelina’s (hot chocolate), and Eric Kayser, Pierre Herme and Pan du Sucre (breakfast, pastries)
Mon 10/5: Dinner at L’Ane Rouge
Wed 10/7: Socca lunch at Cours Saleya; Dinner at La Merenda
*We’ll try Patisserie Lac (pastries) and Arlequin (gelato)
Tue 10/6: Any lunch suggestions?; Dinner at Le Saint Benoit, La Maison du Caviar, Le Grill or Mandarine? (Which should we try for food, view and not too pricey? Le Louis XV is too costly.)
*We’ll try Laduree (macarons)
Mandarine in Monaco has a great view of the harbor and is a comfortable restaurant. Foodwise, I thought it was good, not great. I'd definitely return though if I had the chance. I believe the four-course dinner was 70E when we were there in May. They have a great lunch deal though which is 20-20E for two courses.
I think your Paris plans are pretty good.
I loved "Frenchie" and went twice in two days, but I have not be to Eugene so can't compare, however is it really that easy to get to and back from even if you are in Montmarte? Keep ringing CLJ it is the only way, best to ring at lunchtime, have you got the time-zones right?
Markets are OK, but shops just as good, instead of Notre Dame market (I didn't know about it) head towards Maubert metro stop and go to "Laurent Dubois" which is the top cheese shop, and there are other good picnic supply places near by. Gerard Mulot is a great pastry shop, but you could also pick up some other things from the St Germain covered market opposite.
If you can Haut Cuisine lunch you must. It is really completes a Paris trip, wonderfully decadent and great fun. I don't think North African food in Paris is really much better than in other cities, but maybe the falafel is worth it for a lunch instead of a picnic as the Marais is fun.
Will be going to Chez Dumonnet next week, will post before you get here. Been some unfavorable reports politically on Chez Jenny lately, would skip. Although more money 78€, think the lunch at Le Cinq should not be missed, was treated better and more generously than any family has ever treated me. l am a picnic lunch fan but prefer Maoz in the warren near St Michel over l'as Falaffel. Chez l'Ami Jean crew are in NY until 9/29, you can call then. If l could eat only one thing on your list it would be the socca at Cours Saleya, it was mindblowing. There are two, one cooked over wood crates in center of market, one away from Corniche almost across from the wood one in a stand, they are both stellar, try both. At Dubois make sure to get the 4-5 YO comtè, 40€ a kilo, but may be one of best cheeses ever eaten.
If budget is a consideration, the savory prepared food at Gerard Mulot is very expensive though good. Might consider shopping for your picnic at the Sunday Raspail market. Can always pick up pastries at Mulot after or up to Christian Constant on r. d'Assas.