65406 Thu Dec 30 01:41:44 -0800 2004 14 2 Los Angeles Area 0 352408 Desperate to find a satisfying restaurant in LA, I have reverted to exploring the golden age of resaurans before the foodie revolution. I have a fascination for 1950s retro restaurants, even though I never had the chance to patronize them in their day. There aren't many left - Musso and Frank's has consistently disappointed me (yes, I know there is a devoted following on this board); Dresden (on Vermont near Los Feliz) last month was just too low key, Bernard's is long gone; for all their modernity, Aroyo Chophouse and Saddle Peak Lodge are really, IMHO, retro places that do a good job but without any real retro traction. Reading the reviews over the years, Dal Rae and the Derby (in Arcadia) seemed to be the last of the real thing. Derby last month was ok, but no sink-in red leather and just ho hum food. Dal Rae - a few blocks west of the 605 on Washington in Pico Rivera seemed the last bet - have been trying to get a designated driver to go there for the past several months and finally made it. Drove an hour through the rain. Lined up for the valet in true 1950s Beverly Hills, or even Perino's style. Jammed place; brightly lit, crammed in tables. A few black leather, but mostly cloth booths and lots of tables - no red leather. Hectic service - no elegance here. Lots of alcohol flowing and resultant frequent shrieks of laughter - general air of inebriated merriment. Ordered a Martini - twice the size of Musso and Frank's - not saying this is a good thing. Bread baskets - multiple - appeared. Then more bread and garlic bread and garlic cheese toast (no charge). And what, of all things, a classic relish tray - lots of raw veggies on a bed of ice. Escargots, Oysters (raw as well as Rockefeller), iceberg wedge with huge blue cheese chunks, Caesar with raw egg and all - truly righteous classics. Mains were all pretty expensive but real classics. The big surprise was piping hot beautifully old school doctored fish - parmesan crusted sea bass; macadamia nut crusted halibut; herb crusted swordfish. Hard to taste the fish, but the textures and crusts were first rate. $35 for Lobster Thermador (come on, have you ever actually had it?). LOTS of lobster tail (don't think it was fresh) drenched in cream, hollandaise, mushrooms, onions - onions seem a speciality of this place - and parmesan - not a lobster purist' dream but met the criteria for classic 1950s haute. Passed on the $90 22 oz lobster tail Meats were also tarted up - lots of pepper and herbs on the filet and New York, but good quality meat (for $35 a piece it should be). Roast beef was uneven - several adjoining tables had beautiful chunks, though ours seemed a little more anemic and fatty. Decadent desserts with deep chocolate concotions and good quality ice creams. Wines are very agreeably priced - Husch Chard 2001 for $44; Steele wines are featured - the whites are good though the reds are still waiting for prime time. The wines seemed closer to 2x retail than the usual 3x. Overall, reminiscent of a Chicago steakhouse with huge noise, close tables, and stretched service. But this is old school at its best - good, honest portions, competently (if not elegantly) prepared with obviously first rate ingredients. If you're nostalgic for the pre-foodie old tyme days of good restaurants this is better than most. Bring $$ - almost as expensive as Arnie Morton's and Ruth's though much more interesting. Thu Dec 30 01:41:44 -0800 2004 0 Griller141 1 352417 Dal Rae is a favorite of my wife and I. We really like it. It's not Spago, and never intended to me. It is definitely old school retro and proud of it. Classic stuff. We love their Caesar Salad prepared tableside, and I'm a big fan of their Steak Diane, also prepared tableside. Souffles are also good... fluffly and light kind, not the fudgy kind. Other tableside desserts are Cherries Jubilee and Bananas Foster. All this cool old school stuff in Pico Rivera... kinda neat. You can practically hear Frank and Dean drinking and hollerin' in the back. Thu Dec 30 02:29:12 -0800 2004 352408 0 woo! 2 352421 You both make me want to go back soon. I remember the pepper steak being outragesously overdressed and seductive. Thu Dec 30 02:47:13 -0800 2004 352417 0 cvc 1 352436 If you like this sort of place, here are two others I submit for your dining pleasure: Mr. Stox and Delacy's Club 41. I was taken to Mr. Stox for my birthday in October. It is a little less retro, at bit more up to date, but has solid drinks and solid food. We were a party of six and everyone enjoyed everything they had. They have dessert souffles (a real retro touch) which you need to order when you order your meal to give the kitchen time to prepare them. They are delicious and easily serve two persons. Delacy's Club 41 is the real deal -- about as retro as you can get, right back to the 20s. Its website says it was established in 1988, but you'd swear Diamond Jim Brady took Lillian Russell there on their trip to the west coast in '03 -- 1903, that is. With the small hexagonal tiles on the floor and comfortable booths, you'll see why it's been used as a movie and TV set. They have reliable steaks and chops with all the traditional sides and salads, occasionally rising to some creative desserts. Their menu is fairly extensive and includes seafood and pastas. Highly recommended. Sorry, I'm not a oenophile, but DeLacey's wine list is on their website, and Mr. Stox will e-mail their winelist to you. Mr Stox (714) 634-2994 1105 E Katella Av, Anaheim, CA 92805 http://www.mrstox.com Delacy's Club 41 (626) 795-4141 41 S De Lacey Ave, Pasadena, CA 91105 http://www.delaceysclub41.com/ (Yes, in the phone book without the E, on their website with it.) Thu Dec 30 10:22:11 -0800 2004 352408 0 Dorothy 2 352444 Also, the Riviera in Fountain Valley is great retro - relish tray with veggies & pate, tableside service for Caesar salads, steak diane, etc. Red leather booths too. Thu Dec 30 11:25:58 -0800 2004 352436 0 MzMaggie 3 352466 Would you all put The Arches in Newport in this category too? Making me want to hop on the 405 back to Dal Rae... Thu Dec 30 12:38:26 -0800 2004 352444 0 torta basilica 4 352613 Oh yes = the Arches is definitely high on the list Fri Dec 31 12:25:47 -0800 2004 352466 0 MzMaggie 5 352637 You might want to try Kelly's in Long Beach on 2nd street. Great drinks and steaks and the best creme Brulee. Donny Fri Dec 31 15:15:24 -0800 2004 352613 0 santamonica 3 352472 That would off the 405 at Springdale in Westminster. Thu Dec 30 12:59:18 -0800 2004 352444 0 NinoHB 2 352549 Mr. Stox is pretty good, but not over the top like Dal Rae IMHO. The wine list is, however one of the best in this part of the country - not really a bargain, but it's so extensive that there are many, many inexpensive choices even at 2.5x retail. I love Delacey's for its (possibly unintentional) retro feel. A great bargain and more than passable chops and steaks. Would advise avoiding the fish. Thu Dec 30 19:22:34 -0800 2004 352436 0 Grille141 1 352501 Not sure how this fits into your requirements, but you might want to add Columbo's in Eagle Rock for future reference. Thu Dec 30 15:42:27 -0800 2004 352408 0 Briggs 2 352550 Thanks. Will try it soon. Thu Dec 30 19:27:13 -0800 2004 352501 0 Griller141 1 352555 I keep wanting to like Dal Rae but honestly have found the food pretty bad and certainly overpriced. Once the abalone was tough and paltry for $54 or so, and another time my pepper steak was just shoeleather-- grey, grainy and way overcooked. And should you decline the house salad (replete with carrot shreds and the kind of tomato wedges you haven't seen since the 1970s), the bread, the relish tray and the like, or if you prefer another vegetable to the potato, be forewarned: you will be charged as if for a full order for each change or modification. I do like the caesar, but find it odd that anchovies are by request only, and ridiculous that single portions are not available. As for the retro vibe-- when I have been there the restaurant has been populated largely by extended families and other big groups, several of which have been celebrating birthdays. The building and the bar are very cool but after a few expensive disappointments at Dal Rae, I expect to take my future martinis, red leather (vinyl) banquettes and big-fisted steaks at Dan Tana's. Thu Dec 30 20:10:45 -0800 2004 352408 0 Dbird 1 352605 Two more to add to the list would be The Buggy Whip just off the 405 at La Tijera (Salad with Green Godess Dressing on the side and Prime Rib on the bone)and also Dante's on Wilshire (Spinach and Bacon Salad and Sweetbreads)in West LA. We were at both recently and had a good time. Service was just superb at both places. Fri Dec 31 09:33:10 -0800 2004 352408 0 Just Larry 1 352686 For 60's style retro "continental"(think veal oscar, etc..) nothing beats The Ritz in Newport Beach. This is a seperate restaurant, not connected with a Ritz hotel. Sat Jan 01 13:07:39 -0800 2005 352408 0 Jon