Kick-Butt Uni Dishes
- CarrieWas218 Sep 21, 2009 07:36 PM
My best Foodie Buddy and I are planning the ultimate Uni Crawl and would like input on favorite uni concoctions around the city. Currently in the running for our proposed crawl:
Bar Crudo = Uni and Avocado on Toast
Anchor & Hope = Uni with lemon beurre blanc and crab
Tanuki House = Uni Pasta
Koo Sushi = Spoonfuls of Happiness
Give me some more ideas!
I agree that he makes a great uni pasta (also like the version with shaved cured tuna heart) but on a recent visit we were told that they had discontinued the high-content uni dishes. On that visit we had a tomato-uni pasta which was very good too, but less profoundly uni-tasting.
If Ame offers their chawan mushi with uni (savory steamed egg custard), get it.
689 Mission Street, San Francisco, CA 94105
Nihon Whiskey Lounge does a nice Uni shooter, I believe uni and a couple other things served in a chinese-food type ceramic spoon.
Ino sushi has had some killer uni at times, but I don't think you can go in there and just order one thing and leave...
And if you know any place that makes Ochazuke, ask them to throw some uni in it right before bringing to the table, I've had that in NYC at Blue Ribbon and it's amazing.
Last off, if you are up for preparing yourself, SF Fish Company at the ferry building sometimes sells whole uni, spines and all...
Fair enough, I won't disagree.
I've generally had it as a little referesher between other courses there, and it goes nicely.
But it does have a lot going on...
So Steve, who do you think consistently serves the best raw uni?
I have found that even at the best places it is inconsistent.
The best stuff gives me an unmistakeable body buzz, but it only happens about 1/5 of the time I get it...
Don't know. This is a tough question. I would have said Sebo and Bar Tartine, but Sebo was pretty bad on a recent effort with a distinct lack of attention to detail, and Bar Tartine has changed the entire food format.
It's been ages, but Ame probably has consistently good uni.
As for getting jaw-dropping uni only 20% of the time--I think that might just be the nature of the beast. I think even with impeccable handling, the raw product varies from stunning to merely tasty, and it's hard for a chef to control that.
Thanks for the reminder on Ino. Especially after our last visit at Sebo, we need a new sushi default.
re: Robert Lauriston
At a table. Service was fine. The problems were:
1) Fish quality was not up to par--only 3 selections actually had good flavor--the rest were simply very neutral. Fresh, just not of a quality consistent with prior experiences or the price point around $10 per pair of nigiri.
2) Knife work was unusually sloppy, to the point where I think some of our nigiri should have stayed in the kitchen and they should have tried again instead of hiding shreds of fish tucked under the end
3) There was a time when nobody in the restaurant was eating, because they had all finished what food they had been given. We could see the chefs just joking around and chatting in the kitchen. This was around 7:15 PM on Saturday--they weren't drunk, just weren't interested in preparing food for their customers, who were occupying every table.
4) The sake list is now down to 4 selections, and my sake was served around 75-80 degrees, where it was too "hot" and unbalanced. As it cooled down in the freezing restaurant, it got much better, but no attention was paid to serving temperature--it was just whatever temperature the bottle happened to be at, which was not favorable for that sake
5) Pickled ginger was the sloppiest I have seen in my life, no exaggeration. It was clearly done on a mandoline, where they peeled entire roots and then just slid it across however which way it was. It should traditionally be in fairly tidy diagonal slices which are basically round or ovoid; this was all random shapes, including one piece that was 5 inches long--wider than the width of my hand
6) Boring tuna in the 9-piece sashimi selection. This is a bit of a peeve on my part; we don't really order tuna any more for a variety of reasons, and I thought the rest of our ordering was enough of an indication that we didn't want it in the chef's selection. The tuna we got was some crappy grade with a truly uninteresting flavor profile. The menu had a variety of better options, and not just sustainable tuna either, but they weren't included in the sampler. I'm just surprised that a restaurant that carries the sustainable farmed tuna when available would just plonk any old tuna down on diner's plates even if they haven't ordered it specifically.
7) The restaurant was positively freezing, because the door was open and the kitchen hood was on, pulling in cold cigarette-laced air from the sidewalk. At this price point, I expect them to do whatever it takes to keep the restaurant free of cigarette smoke and within 5 degrees of 70.
8) Fish variety was very poor. Sebo has always had a limited selection, which I accepted because quality was uniformly high. This time, the selection was smaller, and of what was actually on the menu, 4 or 5 items were sold out, despite us being there early in the evening, probably the 4th group of the night to get its order in.
In the past, I have had many wonderful meals at Sebo, and have been more than happy to pay prices that are in the top 5% of SF sushi. This meal just failed on so many levels that I don't think we'll be back. It takes a lot for us to make that decision about a restaurant.
As for staffing, one of the two original chef owners was working that night; I saw a new face in the kitchen, and the younger guy who they brought in a few years back and trained was working as the second sushi chef. The other of the two original owners was not there. Waitresses and hostess were all people I recognized from the past few years. In short, they weren't missing their A-team, they weren't slammed, and it was far too early in the evening for them to have been goofing around on the job and out of so many of the selections on their menu.
Edited to add: the online menu prices are distinctly outdated. Prices are now 10-30% higher, depending on item.
I would have said Bar Tartine, where I've had multiple delicious dishes incorporating uni, but the new menu is generic new American with nothing sophisticated enough to benefit from Uni. Yes, I'm annoyed with the chef change there.
while it's not a concoction, live sushi bar regularly has live uni on the menu. It's incredibly fresh and a beautiful presentation.
Live Sushi Bar
2001 17th Street, San Francisco, CA 94103
I'd say go to any good sushi restaurant, whether it be Koo, Ino, Sebo, Murasaki, and ask them to make an uni ika somen. Basically taking thinly sliced raw squid to make it look like spaghetti, and mixing it with raw uni. Dip a little soy sauce and wasabi and it's another good dish. Sushi Zo in Los Angeles is famous for doing this dish as one of their "omakase' courses. I'd pick Ino, just to be able to have some of his infamous monk fish liver.
Go to the French laundry and have them make you a lot of uni dishes. Our last time there we had 4 in one meal.
Mendocino Uni with Green Apple Granite – what an incredible combination – the icy cold granite with the smooth unctuous uni
Ensui Uni (Japan) with Almond Panna Cotta, 1/16″ dice of apple, Black Truffles, Edible Gold Leaf – this uni was very different than the Menocino uni – it had a salty ocean taste. Who would have thought that almond panna cotta would even work – it did.
Hen Egg Omelet, Santa Barbara Uni, Red Ribbon Sorrel, White Sturgeon Caviar, Creme Fraiche – This was THE dish of the evening
Russet Potato Gnocchi, Uni, Uni Emulsion – Pairing gnocchi with uni is a first for me – the gnocchi were as light as air and then Australian Winter Black Truffles were added tableside.
Complete post of meal here:
A great place for live Uni is Ray's Sushi in Hayward at the Bedford Plaza Shopping Center on the corner of A street and Hesperian Boulevard. I ordered the live Uni last week on a Friday and when it arrived at my table I was so excited. There were 6 very large pieces of the freshest Uni (5-6 inches in length) draped over the top of the Urchin Shell, which was filled with shaved ice and bits of fresh seaweed - it was a spectacular presentation and the best Uni I have ever had. People were stopping at my table to admire the presentation.